Help...No start!

[TTA81]

Two nights ago, I left work and decided to "exercise" the GN on the highway. Well as soon as I got off the on ramp, i primed the alky, hit it to about 1/2 throttle when all of a sudden the car sounded like it backfired, started sputtering and died . I was able to turn onto a side road to see what was up. Opened up the hood and could not see anything out of the ordinary. All vac lines, intercooler hoses in place. Checked under the car for any leaks, etc...nothing. I tried starting it back up and all it wants to do is crank...no start. Had a buddy trailer me home so I could diagnose it.
Here is what I have done so far: checked coil and have spark (coil and module are 1.5 years old) , put a noid light to the injector harness and it flashes (crank sensor should be good), changed fuel filter and fp relay. When the ignition is turned on, I can hear the fuel pump running as it should and my fuel pressure gauge is on 40 psi. Is there a possibility that the cam or crank sensor is bad? Any suggestions would be appreciated. I hate to start buying parts without knowing what exactly is wrong.

 

[TurboBuRick]

Broke the timing chain maybe. Does it crank over real fast? Pop off the cam sensor cap and see if the wheel moves when you crank the motor.
Then again, I don't think you would get injector pulse if the chain was broke. See if the plugs are wet. Check compression.

 

[TTA81]

Anybody?

 

[TurboBuRick]

Are the plugs wet?

Do you have compression?

 

[TTA81]

Rick,
I have not checked compression yet, but the plugs seemed fouled, a little wet and smell of gas. Could changing the plugs with new ones help out?

James

 

[TurboBuRick]

Pull a plug. Stick you finger over the hole and have someone crank the motor over a couple times. You will know if you have compression.


Take the plug that you pulled out and put the wire back on it. Lay it somewhere and give it a couple cranks. See if you have spark.

 

[turbot990]

check your cam sensor remove the cap and see if you can turn the relucter ring they have a problem with breaking the the small tab that goes down threw the sensor it self thats more than likely your problem RJC. sells a repair kit also Casper Electronics sells a quick fix plug in tool good luck let me no Kev.

 

[Razor]

Two nights ago, I left work and decided to "exercise" the GN on the highway. Well as soon as I got off the on ramp, i primed the alky, hit it to about 1/2 throttle when all of a sudden the car sounded like it backfired, started sputtering and died . I was able to turn onto a side road to see what was up. Opened up the hood and could not see anything out of the ordinary. All vac lines, intercooler hoses in place. Checked under the car for any leaks, etc...nothing. I tried starting it back up and all it wants to do is crank...no start. Had a buddy trailer me home so I could diagnose it.
Here is what I have done so far: checked coil and have spark (coil and module are 1.5 years old) , put a noid light to the injector harness and it flashes (crank sensor should be good), changed fuel filter and fp relay. When the ignition is turned on, I can hear the fuel pump running as it should and my fuel pressure gauge is on 40 psi. Is there a possibility that the cam or crank sensor is bad? Any suggestions would be appreciated. I hate to start buying parts without knowing what exactly is wrong.

Could be a bad MAF as well. If you unplug it, and it is.. car will start but run like crap.

Work on plug one.. check for spark and fuel getting to it. If the crank sensor goes bad, it wont start. Cam sensor tells the #1 injector when to fire. Crank sensor takes over from there.

 

[turbot990]

is your reluctor ring tight did you check that remove 2 little screws and lift the cap off verify your sensor is good check the center screw see if it came loose if not put a new crank sensor on.let us no were here to help.

 

[Razor]

Crank sensors are cheap and easy. Even if it doesnt end up being the problem, its not a bad spare part to have lying around. Sooner or latter you'll need it.

I would do a crank sensor as its not expensive.. and time saved is priceless.

 

[TTA81]

Ok, Here is what I got so far:

Razor,
I disconnected the MAF, and still no start. I will go ahead and buy a crank sensor. If it still doesn't start, at least I'll have a spare. Do you recommend a certain brand to get? Will the local parts store brands be ok?

Turbot990,
I pulled the cap off the cam sensor and the reluctor ring (is that the piece which has a slot in the side of it and held on by a screw in the middle?) spins freely. I can spin it 360 w/o problems. Is this an indication of a bad one? Let me know so i can order the part as soon as possible.

 

[TTA81]

Turboburick,
I have compression and yes I have spark.

 

[Razor]

Turbot990,
I pulled the cap off the cam sensor and the reluctor ring (is that the piece which has a slot in the side of it and held on by a screw in the middle?) spins freely. I can spin it 360 w/o problems. Is this an indication of a bad one? Let me know so i can order the part as soon as possible.

Winner.. you have a bad cam sensor. The reluctor ring is not suppossed to spin around freely. You have a few options, one is buy a repair kit to fix the damaged notch on the ring. I believe RJC makes the fix. Option two, buy a new cam sensor. The fix is way cheaper.

 

[turbot990]

Rjc repair cam sensor kit remove the the center screw and lift off the the relucter under it you will find a flat polished washer then you will see a cut out were a very small tab goes down into do not remove the cam sensor leave it in the motor line up your new tab into the the small cut out and install your center screw and put alittle lock tight on the threads and put some alittle muscle in it and snug that install your cap fire it up your good to go glad we could help.

 

[TTA81]

So I take it I won't have to reset the cam sensor as long as it isn't removed from the engine. Also, since I've already turned the reluctor ring, is the sensor going to have to be reset? Since the tab is broken, where does it usually end up? Thanks for the help and I'll let you know how it turns out.

 

[turbot990]

No do not remove it from the engine just line the tab in the opening slot of the cam sensor you do not have to reset if you use the rjc repair kit you may have to file the relucter and the tab abit to get everything to fit just have patience and work with it and you also may be able to buy a relucter from one of are members just ask in your post and some body might have one bud.thats the easy way good luck and keep us posted.YOU BE BACK ON ROAD AGAIN SOON

 

[TTA81]

Hey guys,
I installed the RJC repair kit and it finally started after a couple of tries. I only had it running for a few minutes as it was running a little rough. I knew the plugs were fouled a bit with gas from all the cranking. The old plugs were dry and black just wet with leftover fuel.
Well, today I replaced the plugs with new NGKs .030 gap. I checked the oil first before starting it back up again and noticed that the oil was mixed with "something" , either fuel or coolant. Not really sure. I checked the coolant level and it is full. Tried to smell the oil for traces of fuel but can't smell anything. The oil really doesn't look milky, is somewhat thick and you can really see two substances mixed. With all the cranking I did trying to diagnose the no start, is it possible that fuel got into the oil? Or did I blow the headgasket when the cam sensor tab let go? Also, if it is fuel in the oil, how do I clean it all out when changing the oil? The oil never looked like this before the cam sensor went south. Any ideas?

James

 

[TTA81]

ttt

 

[turbot990]

CHANGE the OIL ITS cheaper than the motor use a pf 52 ac delco filter and 6 qrts. of i use valoline 20w50 racing but only when its warm out not cold like 20% out side no no ka boooooooooom