help on cam install

[blckdrgn1987]

Stock Block, standard bore, 206/206 flat tapper cam, #2 and #3 billet mains. I got the block from my machine shop (was a drop off and never picked up) the block was never bored out just honed and lined with the new mains. I had the cam oil lines drilled out, all the plugs installed .

when I install the cam do I need to check clearances, just slap it in, or call the machine shop?

In a holding pattern

Thanks

Geoff

 

[Abomb]

from comp cams instructions

Step 7: Install the new crankshaft sprocket on the snout of the crank. It is recommended to use a
Crankshaft Timing Sprocket Installation Tool (Part #4933) for all applications that have an
interference fit crank sprocket. If the new camshaft being installed is a hydraulic or solid roller lifter
cam, now is the time to check camshaft endplay. For instructions on how to do so, see “Checking
Camshaft Endplay” section in this booklet. If the new camshaft being installed is a hydraulic or solid
flat tappet cam, this step is not necessary. Flat tappet cams have taper ground into their lobes, which
pushes the cam into the proper position and holds it there while the engine is running. Checking
endplay is also unnecessary in engines equipped with cam retaining plates, whether the cam used is a
flat tappet or roller.

 

[Abomb]

If the new camshaft being installed is a hydraulic or solid
flat tappet cam, this step is not necessary. Flat tappet cams have taper ground into their lobes, which
pushes the cam into the proper position and holds it there while the engine is running.

The only other advice I can give is to be sure to remove the inner valve springs if you are running a dual spring for the break in period. It's a pain but it's the only way I have ever got a flat tappet to live.

 

[Abomb]

Also I read in your other post you are running a double roller timing chain. Do NOT run a tensioner with this style of chain, just in case you have never heard that before. HTH

 

[blckdrgn1987]

thanks but one more

thanks for the heads up on the double roller timing chain. As far as the correct location on cam and gear.

There are three holes, two beside each other and one 180 off. I don't want to bolt the chain gear 180 off. I am guessing that the cast line on front of the cam goes between the two close holes. Am I making any sense?

 

[Chuck Leeper]

Take it back to the machine shop...Have them do it.

 

[Abomb]

BlkDragon the top sprocket can only bolt onto the cam one way, the holes are offset just a bit so it's impossible to get the cam 180 off. Turn it and try to put the cam bolts in you will see what I am saying. One way will work the other won't. I would be sure to use either the factory cam bolts or ARP#123-1001 bolts and torque to factory spec with some lock-tite. Make sure the engine is at top dead center with #1 piston on the compression stroke, and line up the dots. The cam sprocket will have the timing dot pointing down at the 6 o'clock position, and the crank sprocket will have the dot pointing up at the 12 o'clock position. A good manual will walk you through this as well, and is a good way to verify you have it set up right. HTH

 

[blckdrgn1987]

Thanks for the help I am taking my time with this build and if I don't know or am not sure I ask no matter how menial(sp). I think we have it till the next question.