Hesitation / bogs down HELP!!

[chicagoTTA]

Hello all,

I have been reading these forums for a while, and FINALLY got myself into a TTA. Sweet car, only 4k miles. Flawless (sortof)!

Okay, here's my issue. From a dead stop, if I nail the gas, it hesitates and will not even break tires loose (which I assume it should). Does the same when I'm under the hood. With engine running, when I move the throttle, it bogs down/hesitates then revs. It sounds like a 1-2 second pause before the engine reacts to gas.

Drives fine otherwise. With such a low mile car, it's hard to believe it could be a MAF or other like probs.

From a dead stop, I should be melting the tires right?
It just feels WAY slow to react.

Any ideas?? Please???

Michael

 

[chicagoTTA]

By the way, I have done MANY searches and haven't found any answers. So do know I'm NOT one of those people who will post questions that I haven't tried hard to answer by searching.

Thanks!!

 

[1BADDAM]

go to www.gnttype.org

check out "spring cleaning". Also get a scan tool to make sure the car is tuned right........tps,iac, and so on. Then things can be ruled out easier.

 

[tta583]

Agree with 1BADDAM. Go throug the sping cleaning. I fought, and still kind of fight, the same thing. Huge differences can be made with a quick IAC or TPS adjustment. Cleaining out the intercooler (spring cleaning) makes a huge difference at times. Right off it sounds like your IAC is a little out of wack.

I know the miles are low, but the thing is 14 years old. Things change over time.

A scan tool is WELL worth the investment.

Brent

 

[chicagoTTA]

Thanks for the suggestions. I will check that site out and follow the tips.

Dumb Q, but what is IAC?

Also, any suggestions on what scan tools I should buy? Remember, I am a complete newbie here... so all detailed help is GREATLY appreciated (i.e. where/what to buy, etc.).

Thanks!

 

[Slow91z]

Idle Air Control Valve...It's right beneath your Throttle body...Looks like a big black bolt with a connector on the end of it...unscrew it pull it out and clean it and the hole it came out of...I think it sounds like you have a TPS (throttle postion sensor) that's not adjusted properly myself so I'd check that to...I'm sure you can find detailed instructions on that if you look.

 

[turbotaone]

As for the scan tool, a Scanmaster 2.1 is a good one to
start with, it is easy to hook up and easy to read.
You can buy one from most of the larger vendors on this board.
They cost about $250.

James

 

[chicagoTTA]

Thanks again.

Is the ScanMaster the same type as TurboLink? Or are they for different purposes? If they're the same, which is better/easier to use?

I found a link to an article on GNTType.org about IAC and TPS adjusting. In the articles, they say to hook up your scantool to read the TPS. Would either of the above 2 scan tools be what they're talking about?

http://www.gnttype.org/techarea/maintenance/TPS.html

 

[1badTTA]

Originally posted by chicagoTTA
Thanks again.

Is the ScanMaster the same type as TurboLink? Or are they for different purposes? If they're the same, which is better/easier to use?

I found a link to an article on GNTType.org about IAC and TPS adjusting. In the articles, they say to hook up your scantool to read the TPS. Would either of the above 2 scan tools be what they're talking about?

http://www.gnttype.org/techarea/maintenance/TPS.html

Yes that is what they are talking about.

Your options for scantools are:

1)ScanMaster---compact and self contained, slow update rate (1.5seconds) $250

2)Turbo-Link---requires laptop, logs data and option of reading boost, still slow update rate. $150+

3)Direct Scan---requires laptop, logs data, updates at 18frames per second. $250

All three are really good and they each have their advantages, boils down to personal preference and whether you can find a cheap old laptop or already have one. I personally use DirectScan with a pentium 90 and 16meg of ram. That laptop is perfect for DS and also T-link and probably nothing else that I could think of other than playing Hearts in the bank drivethrough.

 

[chicagoTTA]

Thanks 1Bad.

I'd rather use a laptop (I'm a computer geek by trade) instead of permanent mounting a scanmaster.

Where can I get the DirectScan you use?

** Nevermind. Found the website **

 

[chicagoTTA]

Sorry to be a PITA, but could my issue also be a hole somewhere (meaning vacuum leak, etc.) and if so, where would be good places to start looking?

And is there a vacuum diagram posted somewhere?

 

[trading t/a]

Get a fuel pressure gauge also. The stock injectors tend too leak down after all this time. A fuel pressure gauge will be able to help you also. Let the pump pressurise the rails then turn the key off and see if your readings go down. If so you may have leaky injectors or a bad regulator. Do this after your spring cleaning.

 

[chicagoTTA]

Good point.

I just removed and replaced the plugs/wires (with 42TLS's). The old plugs had a slight smell of fuel.
Also adjusted the T.V. WHen I restarted the car, it seemed to be no help. Still big hesitation.

I was wondering about the injector O rings. But wouldn't I see/smell fuel around the injectors? I did drive this car 900 miles non-stop from OKC to Chicago Monday. I would think I'd see some fuel leakage right? Or maybe not?

I don't yet have the scan tools I need so I am doing this blind... I know.

I'll look into the fuel pressure. Should it go down or stay the same using the method you described?

Michael

 

[Razor]

The primary reason for a scan tool on these cars is to make sure there is no knock retard when running the car. The added benefits are the ability to go over individual sensor numbers and confirm theyre readings.

With that being said, the scanmaster is the best of both worlds for our cars. Why..becuase you cant tell the car is detonating while going down the road at 100 MPH..And if you induce a lot of knock retard, I dont care if the motor has 50 miles..you'll make mince meat out of it.

Direct scan is better suited for extended diagnostics. Like making chips, recording runs(data logging), getting a view of everything at once...problem is you cant look at a small couple numbers on a screen with your foot planted.

Ok..get a scan tool(scanmaster) that way you have some decisive numbers to look at..what can it be..who knows...with just desciptions like these. I would consult my Pontiac crystal ball.. but its broken

A manual from Helms would also do you a great benefit. You have a drivability problem..anything can cuase this. Without data..you'll throw a lot of money at parts trying to solve what will end up being a simple problem.

lastly..careful with that TV cable..if you mal adjust it, you'll be buying a new tranny.

HTH

 

[tta583]

On the idle...In looking at gnttype.org did you happen to see this on TPS and IAC settings?

http://www.gnttype.org/techarea/faq/IACreset.html

I did find mine likes a little more IAC for a nice idle and tip in.

Brent

 

[chicagoTTA]

Okay... I have officially put my tools DOWN.

* Deep breath... Step away from the tool box Michael. It will all be just fine. *

Now that I've gone to my 'Happy Place', I have ordered the DirectScan. Also, I found a local Dealer mechanic who will look at the car for me. They'll hopefully get to scan it tomorrow and tell me. You're all right, if I keep at it I'll be tossing money out the window.

And Razor, when you get your crystal ball fixed can you send it this way??

 

[trading t/a]

The fuel pressure should stay the same or close to it. You may get some bleed back through the regulator over time, but it shouldn't fall off rapidly. Once the injectors are primed they should hold that pressure for a while maybe a psi or two difference.

 

[Razor]

Originally posted by chicagoTTA

And Razor, when you get your crystal ball fixed can you send it this way??

My pleasure bud..it will be a while tho..getting a Pontiac crystal ball working is pretty tedious.

look into a knock detector if you plan on using the direct scan..you need a small line of defense against the number one killer of these motors..knock..

You can set your TPS using a digital voltlmeter. I set mine to .44v running. WOT should be at least 4.6v

IAC I do with car running using the scan tool. That procedure for jumping/unplugging/xyz... is a pain. With the scan tool..open the blade a little IAC goes down..close the blad..IAC goes up. Most cars like 20 ish. Even tho anything greater than zero is supposedly taken care of within the ecm. Any IAC adjustment made to the blade screw affects your TV cable adjustment.

HTH

 

[1badTTA]

I agree with Razor, since you are going with Direct Scan (my personal favorite) you should really have a Knock Gauge so you can see it when driving. It really is impossible to watch the laptop while driving, trust me

I think they should have made a DS screen with only KR an O2 volts taking up a full screen and also an audible knock feature. Then you could have it sitting on the pass seat like most of us do, and would hear the knock alarm go off and could see in 3 inch tall numbers how much knock. Just wishful thinking though.

 

[chicagoTTA]

** UPDATE **

Thanks for all your help.

After COMPLETELY cleaning intercooler, hoses, vacuum block and throttle body... car runs GREAT.

Even better after I reset the IAC and corrected TPS (TPS was 57ish).

I put a KN breather on in place of the oil tube (that leads to turbo) and also looped the coolant line that goes through the TB.

I'm sure you all know the importance of a clean intercooler, but this really goes to show it. I'm amazed at how much oil got into the intercooler and TB, and I am SO happy that's all it was.

Thanks again for all your help. You guys rock. Tequila's on me tonight.