high idle, black smoke, cuts out, help!

[TurboShifty]

Ok so my car sat for a month and Half or so. Ran perfect. I decide to drive it today and it started right up.
Then the engine light started flashing. Thought that was weird but it was running fine. Go to drive it and under saw 3/8 throttle or more it just cuts out. But once the boost builds up at higher speeds I can give it more throttle but not much or it cuts out.
It's idling at around 2400 rpm
And it's smoking black smoke like a freight train. I see some blue smoke as well.
I filled the tank and went 80 miles today and the tank is almost empty. I'm sorry but 80 miles on a tank is no good.
I have a code reader but no codes were stored except engine light control circuit.
Help would be greatly appreciated.
I used the search bar and found some cars with similar issues but nothing exactly the same.

 

[RmvBfrFlght]

With the CEL flashing the ECM is in limp mode. During this time the ECM is running from the redundant fuel device (RFD), not the calibration in the PROM. So with the larger injectors it is going to run rich. How rich depends upon how much larger the injectors are versus stock.

Best bet is to not even start the engine if the CEL is flashing.

If you have a PL check that it is properly seated onto the ECM.

Limp mode is also caused by the PROM not making good contact with the socket. Sometimes R&R'ing the PROM will fix it. Other times need to re-tension the contacts in the socket.

RemoveBeforeFlight

 

[TurboShifty]

Ok what is the Pl and where is it located?
I'm not sure if I have larger injectors or not.

 

[fastblackracing]

Do you know where your ecm is located?

 

[TurboShifty]

Lol no. I'm more new school knowledge on cars. I was 1 year old when this car was built.
I think it's kinda by the heater core?

 

[fastblackracing]

Lol no. I'm more new school knowledge on cars. I was 1 year old when this car was built.
I think it's kinda by the heater core?

Thats ok I thought so by your post, no worries though we all started the same way. Your ecm is located in a panel by where the passengers feet would rest. It will be on the right side and is about 10 inches x 12 inches has a plastic button plug on the bottom but it may be missing. sound familiar?

 

[TurboShifty]

Umm from reading other post yes.
I'll look there. What am I looking at once I find the ecm

 

[fastblackracing]

You will want to remove the plastic and get to the ecm there is a cover with 2 hex screws you need to remove and then you can see your chip. There will be some info on the chip you will need to take a pic of it and post it so we can help you to know whth chip you have. anyhow the chip may need re seated as rmvbfrfligh said, also check the main harness connectors for water damage and being plugged in tight. There is an orange wire [small] on your Positive battery cable with a connector inline. this is for the ecm you can unplug this to reset the ecm. The bigger chip is the main one and there will be the smaller one which is the back up that runs the car if something is wrong with the main. Blinking cel usually means a chip problem. You may not have a power logger as they were added in the aftermarket. I always like to pull the orange wire prior to pulling the chip out.

 

[TurboShifty]

This is what I see

 

[fastblackracing]

This is what I see

unplug the orange wire and gently remove the bigger chip by wiggling it end to end while lifting slightly, there are very touch metal prongs under neath that you must not bend/break. just be carefull it will come out.

 

[TurboShifty]

Ok got it out. There's a hand write tag that says " street 36# 93 "

 

[fastblackracing]

Ok got it out. There's a hand write tag that says " street 36# 93 "

I dont recognize the green dot maybe someone else will? This tells you the chip was made fo 36 pound injectors and 93 octane gas. Any other info beyond that?

 

[TurboShifty]

Don't see any info besides the number printed on the chip under that plastic housing

 

[TurboShifty]

I unplugged the orange wire. Removed the chip and that's where I saw the street 36# 93 sticker on the inside of the chip. Put it back in and plugged the orange wire back in and started it and it runs normal and I can Rev it up without its cutting out. And the engine light is off.

 

[fastblackracing]

Ok do all the little metal fingers look good, no bent prongs or anything? If all looks ok go ahead and put the chip back in and reconnect your wire and see if the car will start.

 

[TurboShifty]

Yeah it all looked good. That hand wrote tag I left out cause its pretty close to where the prongs go in and didn't want it to cover the hole or get a bad connection.

 

[fastblackracing]

Ok sounds like your gonna be ok. hopefully no more issues, That chip you have may be a copy of someones, kinda like pirated music if the problem comes back you may want to get a new updated chip. next need to see whats going on under the hood. turbo injectors cooler downpipe

 

[TurboShifty]

Ah ok.
What's a good chip replacement?
What do I need to look at under the hood. I do need to replace the vacuum lines, they are cracking and stuff. What do I need to check on the turbo and downpipe and injectors for?

 

[fastblackracing]

Ah ok.
What's a good chip replacement?
What do I need to look at under the hood. I do need to replace the vacuum lines, they are cracking and stuff. What do I need to check on the turbo and downpipe and injectors for?

Take pics of the injector and downpipe, The turbo you will at a minimum remove the inlet hose and get a pic of the compressor wheel and a measurement of the hole diameter, a pic of the exhaust wheel means unbolting the down pipe and you may not be up for that it can be a pain. your injectors may have a blue top portian?

 

[TurboShifty]

Injectors are blue top.