Thought I'd throw this out. I replaced plugs/plug wires, polished coil pack posts and used electric friendly grease, among other things, and despite good o2's at WOT, I couldnt get rid of the high boost, high rpm popping problem I had. I couldnt afford a new module and coil pack, so I thought I would experiment and see what happens. I figured that if the potting epoxy has gotten so hot thats its become scammer, then there must be a bad ground issue. All my grounds were in place, but I dont have alot of faith in 18 year old ground surfaces or wires. I grabbed some 12 gauge wire, and soldered some terminal lugs on the ends, shrink tube and all so it looks nice. I mounted it where the drivers side coil assembly frame mounts to the back of the intake manifold. There is a second nut on the stud not serving much of a purpose, so I sanded that area of the coil assembly frame, threw some thermoelectric grease on it, mounted the terminal lug, put the nut on, then ran the other end to one of the upper fender mounting bolts. I made sure to sand the surface and use the grease so I get a nice low ohm connection. That pretty much cured the whole poor spark issue. I think the factory ground ends all over the car are in pretty bad shape on any 18 year old car, so even if you have all the ground wires where they should be, there has to be room for improvement. The supra guys do this cause of a poor grounding issue from the factory as well. All I know is that after 7 months, this popping is gone and it runs pretty well.
I also machined a piece that slips into my valve cover breather spout with an o-ring and all that. Its drilled and tapped, and I ran a hose from that, to a PCV valve, and to the vacuum block. Ive eliminated the factory position. Now I'm pulling another inch of vacuum at idle, and my blm's at idle have improved alot. It idles great compared to how it was. I also pulled my fuel pump relay connector off, and all the terminal ends were filled with melted plastic, or really old dried out thermoelectric grease. I had to use kerosene to clean it out cause it was so hard. It looked like there wasnt one terminal getting even close to a marginal connection...this would probably account for the low pump voltage issue alot of people experience. People blame it on wires, but wires usually dont decay like that. Its the connections that have to be done right. I cleaned all that out, and did the same to my fan relays and connectors as well. Just paying attention to alot of little details is gradually paying off. My fan barely worked at all before I did this.
Try adding a good additional ground to the coil pack frame and see if it helps...for you guys experiencing the high rpm miss. All the voltage in the world is useless if it cant reach the frame and ground properly.
I also machined a piece that slips into my valve cover breather spout with an o-ring and all that. Its drilled and tapped, and I ran a hose from that, to a PCV valve, and to the vacuum block. Ive eliminated the factory position. Now I'm pulling another inch of vacuum at idle, and my blm's at idle have improved alot. It idles great compared to how it was. I also pulled my fuel pump relay connector off, and all the terminal ends were filled with melted plastic, or really old dried out thermoelectric grease. I had to use kerosene to clean it out cause it was so hard. It looked like there wasnt one terminal getting even close to a marginal connection...this would probably account for the low pump voltage issue alot of people experience. People blame it on wires, but wires usually dont decay like that. Its the connections that have to be done right. I cleaned all that out, and did the same to my fan relays and connectors as well. Just paying attention to alot of little details is gradually paying off. My fan barely worked at all before I did this.
Try adding a good additional ground to the coil pack frame and see if it helps...for you guys experiencing the high rpm miss. All the voltage in the world is useless if it cant reach the frame and ground properly.
