Home made adjustable wastegate for 86 GN

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louie3888

Member
Joined
Jun 30, 2005
Messages
142
Hey guys,

Went ahead and decided to give the adjustable wastegate a try on my 86 GN, I noticed after removing about 3/8 of an inch of the rod, and then installed the 1/4-20 collar and 2 stop nuts on each side. Next I had to pull it like 3/8 to 1/2 to get it on the flange. Now when I got WOT the car sputters and or misses between like 5 and 15 psi. Any ideas on whats causing this?

Thanks

Louie
 
Do you think that the stock wastegate got damaged as I was cutting and threading it and not it may leak and that would cause it to sputter or miss when I'm at WOT?
 
Whats a good way to test the wastegate for leaks, just wondering if the wastegate got damaged and giving out at WOT?

Thanks
 
Whats a good way to test the wastegate for leaks, just wondering if the wastegate got damaged and giving out at WOT?

Thanks
push the rod in by hand and put your thumb over the vacuum ports to see if it holds.
use a vacuum pump to apply vacuum to it and see if the rod moves and stays.
 
Have you seen were if the wastegate is off in adujstment can cause the to miss / sputter at WOT say around 15-16 psi?
 
I don't think modifying the WG in an of itself is causing the sputtering and you most likely did not damage it. Do you have a scan tool? I am thinking that either the vacuum hoses did not get reconnected correctly or that you now have higher boost and are getting KR.
 
Well with two kids I thought I can save a few bucks and do it myself. But it looks like I will need to get a new one from Kirban but there checkout part of there website does not work. When I took off the waste gate for the first time it measured out at 5 inches, and 5 1/2 when on the flange. So I dialed it back to that size, but when I gets over 15lbs by hitting it WOT it then feels like its missing and I let off since I dont want to create any damage. What is the max boost that the stock 86 GN puts out before knocking?

I dont have a scan tool, but I did do a manul code check and the only code the shows is 12 for normal. What is KR? And what type of scan tool would you need and what would i look for? Now for the vaccum lines, I think i hooked it all up correctly, the only thing I noticed is all the ends of the lines had cracks on them so I cut them off. But I will just get a new setup from Kirban in the morning!

Take a look at the attached photo and let me know if this is all connected correctly.

Thanks

Louie
 

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Another thing, where else can you buy an adjustable waste gate and or a stock unit if it can still be found?

Louie
 
KR is Knock Retard - when the computer pulls timing due to the engine experiencing knock. Higher boost levels (without additional fuel and/or octane) can cause KR and long term KR or short term high levels of KR can damage the engine - damage can range from a blown head gasket to driving over the crankshaft.

I would highly reccomend that you get a Scan Master to monitor KR and other vital engine functions before you turn up the boost. A Scan Master and a WG actuator can most likely be purchased from most of the supportimg vendors - just tell them what turbo you have.

I see that you have have very few posts on the forum - if you are new to the car welcome AND please read all that you can from this site and Turbo Regal Web Site
 
How sensitive are the wastegate settings? If I put it back to the factory length, and I did not have the issue before until trying to get a little extra boost. Would you know where I can get a factory new wastegate, on all these sites they all have adjustable only!

Thanks

Louie
 
How sensitive are the wastegate settings? If I put it back to the factory length, and I did not have the issue before until trying to get a little extra boost. Would you know where I can get a factory new wastegate, on all these sites they all have adjustable only!

Thanks

Louie

nos4gn
just add the .com
 
Your problem is most likely not your wastegate actuator. Its either an ignition problem or lean out.
 
There is no other cheaper version of the scan master that can be used to see where the problem is coming? The only other area I was looking at was under the crank I noticed that there was a great build up of grease / oil around the crank sensor so I went ahead and sprayed it with contact cleaner to free it from all the crap. Would have that caused my issue, but the car starts fine?

Thanks

Louie
 
What other mods have been done to the car?

Does it have a new fuel pump?

If it still has the original Fuel pump, you found your problem.
 
Well I'm 33, and I picked up the car 15 years ago with 16K miles on it and made some basic mods back then like stage 1 chip, K&N system, 2 1/2 open exhaust, adjustable fuel reg, engine hold down, 1 3/8 front sway bar, etc. So the mods were basic, never touched the fuel pump but I do know that it was replaced when I got the car and I still have the stock injectors and the car now has 33K miles!

What do you recommend?

Louie
 
Racetronix pump is a littte cheaper (Pump kit is $114 and you can get a pump and a hotwire kit for $160).

What I'd guess is happening is your pump is crap and a can't keep up with the pressure you have set on your AFPR + the few extra lbs of boost you put it in it.

Even if it is isn't the fuel pump, you have no idea what pump is in there and whatever pum is in there was installed in the early 90's, which is Yikes.

That could just be a stock replacement pump that can't take 45lbs on a AFPR + >15 lbs of boost without choking.
 
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