Hot air to intercooled...tuning after the fab work.
- Thread starter jbeier
- Start date
Welcome!
By registering with us, you'll be able to discuss, share and private message with other members of our community.
Gary Durden
Active Member
- Joined
- Nov 17, 2002
- Messages
- 251
TurboTNZ06 has a spare working ignition module/coil pack in the for sale section.
I bought a new coil, and that seemed to clear up the misfire. Now I have no idea what's wrong but the car is only getting 8 mpg, running pig rich unless I go to WOT. I've never had a factory turbo car that was such a pain to deal with. I've hacked together JY setups that worked better than this. I think it's time to go back to what I know and sell this thing.
Make sure your chip is in the ECM correctly. Sometimes the pins get bent.
Do you have a scan master?
Do you have a fuel pressure regulator?
What MAF are you running? MAFs from auto parts stores do not work correctly with these cars, its best to use a MAF translator and newer MAF like an LT1 maf.
Do you have a scan master?
Do you have a fuel pressure regulator?
What MAF are you running? MAFs from auto parts stores do not work correctly with these cars, its best to use a MAF translator and newer MAF like an LT1 maf.
As long as your fuel pressure gauge let's you see the fuel pressure at idle, and it's set to 43 with the vacuum line off (or per the chips recommendation), and then when you put the vacuum line back on it should drop to 37 or so, then it would appear your pressure is good and set properly, do you have an adjustable fuel pressure regulator?
chip is in properly, injectors are in properly, I do not have an adjustable FPR, and the stock one is running 41 psi at idle with no vacuum line and 37 psi with the vacuum line on. If I had an adjustable FPR, I'd probably actually be taking pressure off. Part throttle is sucking bad right now. EGR is disabled, and the scanmaster is pulling fuel at part throttle and it's still rich. My INT is reading around 110 just cruising at part throttle. I'm running the stock MAF. None of this should cause these problems at part throttle. I've got a new Denso 02 sensor as well. I'm thinking of pulling the TT chip and injectors and going back to stock. Car was faster and got better mileage with the stock junk.
dank GN
BlackArts Automotive (661)993-8277
- Joined
- Jan 11, 2009
- Messages
- 4,039
I would get a adjustable fuel reg and lower the fuel pressure some . Have you adjusted the fuel in the chip?
No disintegrations
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Dec 27, 2015
- Messages
- 1,055
The maf sensor may have failed
I'm out of money or I would. Adjustments to the chip only affect WOT.
I'll quadruple check them, but as far as I know, the only one that shouldn't see boost is the evap canister line. Am I wrong? I even went through and replaced rotten lines.
You should replace them all. I'm not sure but the Map, FPR need boost, along with the wastegate.
there was only one I did not replace because it already looked like someone had replaced it not long ago. I was asking about lines that should NOT see boost. As far as I know the evap canister is the only one.
Well as long as the ones that need boost see boost, and are not connected to the throttle body which only has vacuum, then you should be ok, following the vacuum hose diagram is always a good thing;
My throttle body does get boost.
Not sure if there is a check valve in the vacuum block, the intercooled cars have check valves because everything connected to the vacuum block on the throttle body is only vacuum.
I ordered new plugs and wires. I changed the oil yesterday (only after about 250 miles) to make sure the oil in the pan isn't diluted with gas from running on 4 cylinders. If I put the new plugs and wires on and it still runs the same, I'm ordering an LS1 MAF and translator.
