How Difficult Is It To Swap Injectors?
- Thread starter ~JM~
- Start date
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I figured that there must be a thread on this somewhere but I have yet to find it. I tried a search on injector removal, inj swap, inj replace, etc. If anyone is familiar with the thread please post it up.
Thank you
~JM~
salvageV6
Daily Driver
- Joined
- May 25, 2001
- Messages
- 21,019
This is about all you need to know and a great site for lots of upgrades new and old style. 
http://www.gnttype.org/techarea/fuelsystem/injector_swap.html
http://www.gnttype.org/techarea/fuelsystem/injector_swap.html
i did tons of research when i did mine and saved the info. here is the file. I couldn't up load it so i copied and paste.
It was taken from various sites and posts. Read it and use whats best for you. It helped me a bunch.
I'm sure someone more knowledgeable will recognize their posts and will chime in.
D
Replacing injectors and FPR
removal ,nah pretty easy installation use vasaline on all orings snap into fuel rail and slip into intake make sure your clips are on the upper part of injectors you will know what i am talking about whenyou remove them. regulator thread the fuel line into the reg a few turns before bolting it to rail once its all tight turn key on and look for leaks. set fp with hose off regulator usually 43# i think
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Lube up the injector o rings with dish or hand soap to prevent ripping the o rings. Unplug the computer before messing with the ecm and remember to put the ground strap back on the coilpack and module assembly when bolting it back down. Read Eric's instructions before you operate the car. You should use a known good if not new fuel pressure gauge to set the fuel pressure
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Get a couple of pry bars if that fuel rail has never been off your gonna need them and lube the injector o rings real good i had a vacuum leak when i was done buy it came apart easier the second time, also watch not to pinch the injector harness anywhere
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No, but I added one just as a precaution. I used some wire I had here, 10 gauge it probably was; and made a dedicated ground to the lower intake manifold. I used the EGR soleniod stud for a ground, since I dont have a solenoid on my car.
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"Remove coilpack & module assembly (two 15mm nuts and a 13mm bolt on the backside)." The bolt on the backside requires a 10MM socket to remove it.
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Please let me stress how important it is start the fuel return line threads FIRST before bolting to the fuel rail. I stripped mine and has to replace fuel line.
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I forgot to mention that too... I usually set the rail in and get the injectors all lines up then I get the fuel lines started in the holes. I also us a 3/8" extension and a plastic mallet to seat the rail. Then tighten the bolts up.
One more thing Don. The little linkage clips that hold the cables to the throttle arm like to go flying.... And there REAL easy to loose! Just be easy and use a small flathead screwdriver and take them off. Then use the channellocks to take the cables out of the bracket.
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First, on the injector harness; the clip slides out. You dont bend it, it slides out. I guess its something like a locking clip. Be gentle as its plastic, but it should come out. Then carefully unplug the injector harness itself from the engine harness.
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As for the injectors, I agree with everything already said. Be extremely gentle with the fuel rail. DEPRESSURIZE THE FUEL SYSTEM BEFORE YOU START! If you dont, there will be fuel everywhere and a potential fire hazard.
First loosen the fuel feed on the passengers side. You'll need a 16mm flare wrench. Remove coilpack & module assembly (two 15mm nuts and a 13mm bolt on the backside). Undo spark plugs wires as well. Remove and set it aside. A 1/4" socket or nutdriver will get the coilpack connector off. Unhook the throttle, TV, and cruise control cable. A medium sized pair of channellocks will do this. A 7mm socket will remove the bracket from the plenum. Under that bracket, will be a 13mm but. Remove it.
Loosen and remove the fuel feed and return lines with the 16mm flare wrench. If you dont have one, Sears sells the good ones. I usually break them loose with the flare, then remove them with a regular wrench. There will be four bolts for the rail. Two 10mm in front and two 13mm in the rear. Loosen them but dont remove. Unplug the injector harness from the engine harness. Its easier then trying to fight all six injectors plugs. Pull out the little plastic slide clip thing but dont loose it. Use a short 2x4 and lay it on the passenger's valvecover to protect it. Get a long screwdriver or prybar and gently but firmly pry up on the rail. Try and do it as evenly as possible, dont just try to get it out all at once. Driver's side may be a but trickier with the EGR valve there but it should be loose enough already. You may have to use some penetrant such as PB Blaster to make it easier. If its a high mileage car with original injectors, they'll be tough to get out. I know the one's in my WH-1 were a b!tch back in the day...
Remove the fuel rail, injectors and harness as a unit. Get a small pick tool and make sure none of the old o-rings are left in the injector bosses in the intake. A small screwdriver will work as well. Also make sure no debris get done there and clean the bosses out as best as you can.
Remove and replace old injectors in the rail. Be gentle with the rail and again, make sure all the old o-rings come out. If not, you'll have a fuel leak. I use Vaseline to lubricate the new injectors' o-rings, as well as the o-ring on the regulator. Get the new regulator in and use the bolts to seat it. I think they are 8mm? Maybe?
Plug in the injector harness, the Casper's harness is numbered and is a very very nice, high quality unit. I didn't re-use the original injector clips. That's up to you. Mine was a little long but that was fine with me. I neatly ziptied the harness to the rail and plugged it in.
Installation is pretty much the opossite of removal. I used blue LocTite on my fuel rail bolts as I wanted them to stay torqued. Now would be a good time to put in a RJC PowerPlate (if you wanted too) and/or a EGR blockoff. I had on on my car, but it leaked so I put the EGR valve back on. Some Ultra Copper RTV will help seal it.
Get the car back together, unplug the ECM connector by the battery (orange wire) and put the new chip in. Plug the ECM in and prime the fuel system. Check for leaks!! Best if you have someone help you here. Set the fuel pressure to 43psi with the vacuum line off. And you should be ready to roll.
This is how I do injectors when I have. It's what works best for me. Might not be the easiest/fastest way but the job gets done just the same.
Hope this helps.
Scott.
It was taken from various sites and posts. Read it and use whats best for you. It helped me a bunch.
I'm sure someone more knowledgeable will recognize their posts and will chime in.
D
Replacing injectors and FPR
removal ,nah pretty easy installation use vasaline on all orings snap into fuel rail and slip into intake make sure your clips are on the upper part of injectors you will know what i am talking about whenyou remove them. regulator thread the fuel line into the reg a few turns before bolting it to rail once its all tight turn key on and look for leaks. set fp with hose off regulator usually 43# i think
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Lube up the injector o rings with dish or hand soap to prevent ripping the o rings. Unplug the computer before messing with the ecm and remember to put the ground strap back on the coilpack and module assembly when bolting it back down. Read Eric's instructions before you operate the car. You should use a known good if not new fuel pressure gauge to set the fuel pressure
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Get a couple of pry bars if that fuel rail has never been off your gonna need them and lube the injector o rings real good i had a vacuum leak when i was done buy it came apart easier the second time, also watch not to pinch the injector harness anywhere
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
No, but I added one just as a precaution. I used some wire I had here, 10 gauge it probably was; and made a dedicated ground to the lower intake manifold. I used the EGR soleniod stud for a ground, since I dont have a solenoid on my car.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
"Remove coilpack & module assembly (two 15mm nuts and a 13mm bolt on the backside)." The bolt on the backside requires a 10MM socket to remove it.
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Please let me stress how important it is start the fuel return line threads FIRST before bolting to the fuel rail. I stripped mine and has to replace fuel line.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
I forgot to mention that too... I usually set the rail in and get the injectors all lines up then I get the fuel lines started in the holes. I also us a 3/8" extension and a plastic mallet to seat the rail. Then tighten the bolts up.
One more thing Don. The little linkage clips that hold the cables to the throttle arm like to go flying.... And there REAL easy to loose! Just be easy and use a small flathead screwdriver and take them off. Then use the channellocks to take the cables out of the bracket.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
First, on the injector harness; the clip slides out. You dont bend it, it slides out. I guess its something like a locking clip. Be gentle as its plastic, but it should come out. Then carefully unplug the injector harness itself from the engine harness.
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
As for the injectors, I agree with everything already said. Be extremely gentle with the fuel rail. DEPRESSURIZE THE FUEL SYSTEM BEFORE YOU START! If you dont, there will be fuel everywhere and a potential fire hazard.
First loosen the fuel feed on the passengers side. You'll need a 16mm flare wrench. Remove coilpack & module assembly (two 15mm nuts and a 13mm bolt on the backside). Undo spark plugs wires as well. Remove and set it aside. A 1/4" socket or nutdriver will get the coilpack connector off. Unhook the throttle, TV, and cruise control cable. A medium sized pair of channellocks will do this. A 7mm socket will remove the bracket from the plenum. Under that bracket, will be a 13mm but. Remove it.
Loosen and remove the fuel feed and return lines with the 16mm flare wrench. If you dont have one, Sears sells the good ones. I usually break them loose with the flare, then remove them with a regular wrench. There will be four bolts for the rail. Two 10mm in front and two 13mm in the rear. Loosen them but dont remove. Unplug the injector harness from the engine harness. Its easier then trying to fight all six injectors plugs. Pull out the little plastic slide clip thing but dont loose it. Use a short 2x4 and lay it on the passenger's valvecover to protect it. Get a long screwdriver or prybar and gently but firmly pry up on the rail. Try and do it as evenly as possible, dont just try to get it out all at once. Driver's side may be a but trickier with the EGR valve there but it should be loose enough already. You may have to use some penetrant such as PB Blaster to make it easier. If its a high mileage car with original injectors, they'll be tough to get out. I know the one's in my WH-1 were a b!tch back in the day...
Remove the fuel rail, injectors and harness as a unit. Get a small pick tool and make sure none of the old o-rings are left in the injector bosses in the intake. A small screwdriver will work as well. Also make sure no debris get done there and clean the bosses out as best as you can.
Remove and replace old injectors in the rail. Be gentle with the rail and again, make sure all the old o-rings come out. If not, you'll have a fuel leak. I use Vaseline to lubricate the new injectors' o-rings, as well as the o-ring on the regulator. Get the new regulator in and use the bolts to seat it. I think they are 8mm? Maybe?
Plug in the injector harness, the Casper's harness is numbered and is a very very nice, high quality unit. I didn't re-use the original injector clips. That's up to you. Mine was a little long but that was fine with me. I neatly ziptied the harness to the rail and plugged it in.
Installation is pretty much the opossite of removal. I used blue LocTite on my fuel rail bolts as I wanted them to stay torqued. Now would be a good time to put in a RJC PowerPlate (if you wanted too) and/or a EGR blockoff. I had on on my car, but it leaked so I put the EGR valve back on. Some Ultra Copper RTV will help seal it.
Get the car back together, unplug the ECM connector by the battery (orange wire) and put the new chip in. Plug the ECM in and prime the fuel system. Check for leaks!! Best if you have someone help you here. Set the fuel pressure to 43psi with the vacuum line off. And you should be ready to roll.
This is how I do injectors when I have. It's what works best for me. Might not be the easiest/fastest way but the job gets done just the same.
Hope this helps.
Scott.
Injector swap is easy. If I can do it myself, anybody can. The write-up by Scott above is spot on. I used it to do mine & had no issues. Don't give in to prying on the fuel rail at first; I didn't have to pry on mine at all, it just wiggled loose. The hardest part is getting the harness unplugged from behind the motor. Remember to plug that SOB harness back in!! I forgot to plug mine back in & spent a few minutes trying to figure out why I couldn't get it started!
If you get stuck, feel free to PM me. I'm so new to this stuff that I get really excited about being able to help somebody else for a change.
If you get stuck, feel free to PM me. I'm so new to this stuff that I get really excited about being able to help somebody else for a change.
Excellent Tech! Thank you for the link & the posts.
Looks & sounds a bit intimidating the first time. I know that someone has swapped the injectors already on this car so maybe it will go easier. Sure hope they knew what they were doing & didn't leave any surprises.
I believe there is an Injector "Hotwire" type kit on the market. Is this something I should consider?
~JM~
Looks & sounds a bit intimidating the first time. I know that someone has swapped the injectors already on this car so maybe it will go easier. Sure hope they knew what they were doing & didn't leave any surprises.
I believe there is an Injector "Hotwire" type kit on the market. Is this something I should consider?
~JM~
I just recently bought this injector harness and it has the hotwire interface made into it. Can't go wrong with upgrading 26 year old wiring when you can and at a very good price.
http://www.racetronix.biz/itemdesc.asp?ic=INJ-G77&eq=&Tp=
- Joined
- May 27, 2010
- Messages
- 1,969
If the 60's your putting in are used replace the o rings with new ones. Light smudge of vasoline worked great. Hardest part is screwing the fuel lines back on. Napa sells the the orings for the fuel lines part# 730-4912. Replace those too.
