How do I make this work?

[robzombie]

Would this be a metal pipe full of hot coolant? or do you have a plastic MAF pipe and a metal one under the hood?


So I should ditch my metal intercooler and radiator and get a flexible plastic one?


If I set a piece of black plastic and a mirror out in the sun which one will heat up?

I'll do what works for me and you keep doing what works for you.

 

[earlbrown]

I do like the scientific method.

 

[robzombie]

I do like the scientific method.If I set a piece of black plastic and a mirror out in the sun which one will heat up?

The metal that is next to the mirror and black plastic will be the hottest of the three.


Bring on the science of how a metal tube would transfer less heat to the air passing through it than a rubber coated cloth tube.

If you want to be scientific substitute the mirror and use metal pipe. A mirror reflects, metal absorbs heat. The type of metal dictates the amount of conductivity/insulating quality it will possess.

Let's just say that the air going through each is 100* and the air passing over each is 200*.

Would rubber impregnated cloth be a better insulator than chrome plated carbon steel ?

What would you rather touch when you pop the hood after an hour long drive?? I'll touch the flexible cloth/rubber impregnated one every time and not pull away from the heat coming off of it.

How long are you gonna hold onto that metal pipe Earl???

 

[TR Custom Parts]

We make MAF pipes in 3" 3.5" and 4" along with whatever hoses you need to connect to your turbo and MAF sensor. Sent you info. We do two different cold air systems, one that exits motor compartment thru the hole in the radiator support and another that goes thru the plastic inner fenderwell. We offer nitrile rubber OR silicone hoses depending on your needs / budget.

 

[1KWIKSIX]

Are you sure that you have a 3.5" LS1 MAF? Looks like it's an 85mm (Z06) MAF to me which is 3.75" OD. I have this set up myself. I'd suggest you get rid of the flexible MAF hose & get a metal MAF pipe (aluminum is the preferred material, however stainless or plain metal will do).
If so, you can get a silicone 3.5" to 3.75" reducing coupling from several vendors. Other sizes are available too.
I've bought the exact fitting from frozenboost.com on my set up.
Here's a link:
http://www.frozenboost.com/intake-pipe-reducer/pipe-reducer-p-533.html

 

[BARRACUDA1968]

Are you sure that you have a 3.5" LS1 MAF? Looks like it's an 85mm (Z06) MAF to me which is 3.75" OD. I have this set up myself. I'd suggest you get rid of the flexible MAF hose & get a metal MAF pipe (aluminum is the preferred material, however stainless or plain metal will do).
If so, you can get a silicone 3.5" to 3.75" reducing coupling from several vendors. Other sizes are available too.
I've bought the exact fitting from frozenboost.com on my set up.
Here's a link:
http://www.frozenboost.com/intake-pipe-reducer/pipe-reducer-p-533.html

You are correct I do have the Z06 MAF. My fault! Dave sent me all the parts I needed and for some reason I got confused between the LS1 and the Z06 which I now remember Dave mentioning. I measured it the other night and started to test fit it to my Tomko and it was obvious it wouldn't work. The LS1 will but not the Z06. I had been using the LT1 with the adapter ring in the Tomko and it worked fine. My motor isn't finished yet so I'm trying to get everything lined out so the install goes smooth.

I will check out the link you gave me. Thanks for catching that!

 

[TT/Ameasap]

Brett, I have a bunch of aluminum 3'' pipe left over from my front mount install if needed.

 

[BARRACUDA1968]

Thanks! Trying to decide how to make this work at the moment. I could use my current 3" pipe from the turbo to the MAF and get the fittings 1KWIKSIX posted. Just wondering if going 3.5" all the way would really flow more air since the turbo inlet is 3"? My Tomko is 3.5 to the MAF and I'm pretty sure my K&N is 4"

I'm getting a headache!

 

[TT/Ameasap]

Im out of school for the next 3 weeks, so im available for anything you need.

 

[BARRACUDA1968]

Sweet, I wish I had my short block back I'd pay you to come over and help me assemble the rest of the motor.

Right now I'm sitting on my hands. I might get lucky and have it back in 2 weeks.

 

[TT/Ameasap]

Next Friday Im going out for some 60ft testing. I gotta get this chassis dialed in to a 1.45

 

[BARRACUDA1968]

Is that a test and tune night?

 

[rev. 3:11]

I posted this a while back
This should work for the stock flex-hose & less than $3.00 to boot:
& will still be good if/when you get a hard-pipe...
I'm using a 3" hard pipe w/ an 85mm MAF & it should works great
I went to Home Depot & found this:
its a 3" to 3.5" coupler
Found it in the air duct section, (not plumbing!)

part # IRB43 ($2.50ish)

its light & thin,much lighter than the rubber plumbing coupler, but sturdy enough

Here it is installed;
I just shot it black, trimmed the notch to align the MAF
& glued it (rtv) to the MAF
works like a charm & cheap to boot!

You could just work flex hose over coupling & hose clamp the small end.

D

 

[robzombie]

I use those couplers as well. I have one from the filter to the hose behind the bumper and it works great.

 

[TT/Ameasap]

Is that a test and tune night?

yes.

 

[BARRACUDA1968]

I posted this a while back
This should work for the stock flex-hose & less than $3.00 to boot:
& will still be good if/when you get a hard-pipe...
I'm using a 3" hard pipe w/ an 85mm MAF & it should works great
I went to Home Depot & found this:
its a 3" to 3.5" coupler
Found it in the air duct section, (not plumbing!)

part # IRB43 ($2.50ish)

its light & thin,much lighter than the rubber plumbing coupler, but sturdy enough

Here it is installed;
I just shot it black, trimmed the notch to align the MAF
& glued it (rtv) to the MAF
works like a charm & cheap to boot!

You could just work flex hose over coupling & hose clamp the small end.

D

Thanks for the pics! I went over some of these ideas with Husek yesterday so I can maintain my current location of my air filter. If I go with making my own system I will need to have the motor in the car first so I can mock things up and measure etc. With it being this late in the year and the fact that I live in the middle of nowhere I don't really know how much time I want to spend on this part of the project trying to come up with couplers, fitting etc. If I'm lucky I may have 2 months to drive my car before the snow hits. Not what I had in mind this year but it is what it is.

Husek also wants 4" before the MAF and 3.5" to the turbo which basically means I need new everything accept filter. I may just open the wallet for now and go the easy route on something I know will bolt in. Once I get my motor back it will be balls to the wall wrenching until I get the car back together. My machine work is all done and I will be ordering rod and crank bearing this week, My machinist is going to go through my Champion heads this weekend so the time is getting close. KWICKSIX sent me some pics and so far I like his set up the best. I can always make a change later or over the winter if I decide to go back to the Tomko air filter location.

 

[BARRACUDA1968]

yes.

I will try and make it up for that. I haven't been to the track all year. I used to love running on Friday nights in Cordova.

So you must have figured out your oiling problem?

 

[TT/Ameasap]

I will try and make it up for that. I haven't been to the track all year. I used to love running on Friday nights in Cordova.

So you must have figured out your oiling problem?

I just did today. It was a piece of debris that has dislodged itself and now Im back to normal oil pressure. I was depressed for weeks over this and finally got it back! Still on for Friday.

 

[BARRACUDA1968]

Ok good news and I am coming Friday.