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how hard is it to change ur thermostat

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It should not be too hard, except that if it is the original, the housing is probably somewhat corroded and difficult to get out without destruction. I would try to get a new GM part or one of the billet versions available from some of the TB vendors before attempting the change.

I think the recommended procedure is to remove the C-clip holding the housing in the block. The upper radiator hose attaches to the smaller neck of the thermostat housing. Inside the large end of the housing is the T-stat, which fits into the block.

I was replacing my hoses anyway when installing my 160 T-stat, so I had the hose off of the housing.

It is a tight fit getting to the bolt that holds the c-clip, a long extension with a u-joint served me the best, the bolt was very tight too.

Other than that, the usual, drain radiator low enough so that the coolant wont run all over the place, upgrade to stainles steel clamps if not already. Almost forgot, there is an O-ring type seal instead of a gasket, will need to replace the O-ring and lubricate it before installing.

Hope that helps
 
Pretty easy, I removed the up-pipe, and pipe from MAF to turbo and anything else in the way. The rad hose goes on the water outlet pipe. The inlet pipe is held by a "fork" clamp. Remove the clamp and pull out the pipe. The factory inlet pipe is trash and you will prolly destroy it trying to remove. Pull out the old therm. I got a pipe and therm from NAPA for an 89 "Turbo Firebird", they had both in stock and the pipe was cast. Get a new o-ring too. I had to shim the "fork" a little with washers and lube the o-ring a little, otherwise assembly is opposite of removal.
 
im having a problem with my housing, it's in there pretty good,any suggestions on removing a stubborn one? btw, i didnt give it much of a try yet but i know its gonna be a PITA
thanks
 
i just got finished changin mine 10 minutes ago.it took me about 20minutes.i had to take off maf pipe,up pipe,upper coolant hose,s hose(its in front of the bolt).the housing took a little wriggling i used a pair of pliers and LIGHTLY wriggled up and down.it was original t-stat w 100k miles.i couldnt get the housing to stay on when assembling.so i started the bolt in to hold it,then LIGHTLY tap with hammer.tighten bolt and that was it.remember to drain a gallon of the coolant so u dont make a mess.
 
On some of the more stubborn ones that I've ran across. I just leave the upper radiator hose connected to the thermostat housing and pull straight out on it. It's a lot easier to get a good grip on the hose instead of the housing. If you fall back on your can when it comes out, don't blame me.:eek:
 
As somebody said, be prepared to replace the upper radiator hose, the thermostat housing, and the clamps, as well as some coolant. The new thermostat should come with a new o-ring.

(Observe how the old set-up installs - thermostat, then housing. The o-ring goes into the groove in the housing. Touch up the hole in the lower intake manifold with a clean rag, and use plenty of Vaseline on the o-ring and manifold before the re-install. Be patient and above all, don't cut the new o-ring.)

You can trying spraying WD-40 around where the housing installs to the lower intake manifold, to see if that will help. Wiggle the housing around as best as you can and spray away.

I've been know to clamp a vice grips onto the old housing, since it's crap anyway, and is headed for the trash.

Wiggling it in circles, spraying it, and speaking in foreign tongues while standing on one's head certainly helps. Oh, and primal screams. And rebel yells.

Like the fellow said, don't break your arm, fall on your ass or trash your car when it does finally come loose.

:D
 
My water outlet neck was rusted into place and I had no choice but to destroy it to remove. I had to collapse it and "peel" it out. Like I said, the 89 TTA replacement at NAPA was much better material than what I pulled out, it was in stock, and less than 10 clams. They also had a 160 degree thermostat for the TTA (needed no trimming) that I used.
 
Its a total PITA if its original. I was trying to save my housing and finally gave up and destroyed it with a pair of chanel locks. I also cut my o ring trying to put the new one in that cotton sells. It seemed to me to be too big. I ended up buying another o ring at the local parts store for $.30 and it fit much better.
 
actually changing the thermostat on my 80k mile car was very easy...crow's foot was removed with no problem and i just took some pliers and wiggled the housing out with no problem...didn't bend a thing...installed new thermostat and popped it right back in...walla

i also drained my coolant completely since it needed it
 
Originally posted by GNANIMO
should the standard 50/50 mix of coolant be used?

In canada, ya, eh?

In Texas, I'd run straight water until the temps think about going below 30 degrees (mid november) especially if you race the car. Antifreeze and bearings don't mix. I've never blown a head gasket...but you never know when you will. It also keeps me changing the fluid (something I'm bad about). I've killed more radiators over the years by not changing out the coolant.
 
d0n_3d
I wisk I had your luck.
I tore mine to shreads with vice grips & installed a new ATR stainless.
 
Originally posted by UNGN
In canada, ya, eh?


Yessir! :)

I will be storing my car in the winter and probably won't be in a heated environment. Still think 50/50 is the way to go??

I will be swapping in my 160 stat this week so I was going to do a full flush while I was at it.

Later,
 
if drained completely how much coolent is need to top her back up?

Both for the rad and reserve tank.
 
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