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How many run 20w50 castrol in their GN??

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dont use that oil, but love the lucas oil stablalizer, pretty slipper stuff, when i my turbo seals on my exhaust side blew that stuff would slow down the leak significantly (less blue smoke out that tail pipes)
 
Why are you running such a heavy oil? If you insist on heavy, I'd go the Rotella/Delo 15w40 oil (diesel stuff).
 
I am! Castrol GTX 20-50. I run it because thats what I was told the car has always had in it. Maybe someday ill switch to having a less weight oil, I DD my car and like knowing I have 20 psi hot.

Theres a few owners who run 20-50 though.

-Adam
 
Too much is made of idle oil pressure. If I had the choice between
20 psi ide and 60 psi at rpm with 20-50
or
10 psi idle and 60 psi at rpm with 10-30

I'd take the 10-30 because under load is where it counts and the only thing cooling the bearings is flow. Thinner oil=more flow. Idle=no load

My opinion on 15-40 is that you'd be better off running 10-40. Same hot oil viscosity, just thinner when cold. Run the thinnest oil you can while maintaining correct oil pressure. Your engine will thank you. james
 
if you add the lucas oil treatment to 10w30 oil you end up with 20w50 oil :)

Just so everyone knows that one.

There full syn. dosnt do that as its a lot thinner but from my own testing it dosnt work as well at keep a constant viscosity under heavy load (See Racing and heat)

Hope this helps someone out :)
 
20w50 Valvoline VR1 Racing oil (zinc additive) here...hot oil pressure is about 25-30 psi and cruise is about 50-55 psi...stock bottom end with almost 120k miles on it so the motor is a "little" loose :)
 
20w50 Valvoline VR1 Racing oil (zinc additive) here...hot oil pressure is about 25-30 psi and cruise is about 50-55 psi...stock bottom end with almost 120k miles on it so the motor is a "little" loose :)

Another 20/50 VR1 user....only thing that goes in the car.
 
Used Castrol GTX 20w50 in summer and 10w40 in winter for years without a problem. Vavoline was on sale years ago and I tried it and the oil seemed to stay cleaner longer and run quieter so I now use Valvoline VR1 20w50 or Vavoline Diesel oil 15w40. I tried Rotella (old formula) a few months back and the motor had a bit more top end noise.
Went back to Valvoline and the top end noise went away.
 
I was thinking I may have had a little glazing of the cylinder walls from running synthetic only, so I thought I would switch to dino for an oil interval, and tried castrol 20w-50 (weight Ive always used), and a bottle of lucas. Within 1000 miles, my turbo was shot. Like 1/8" of compressor thrust where before I had none, and I hadnt pushed my engine at all during that time. I also had a bunch of sludge buildup all over the top of my heads (when I popped off the fill cap and looked), and it was smoking a bit. I did an engine flush and threw it 5 quarts of royal purple 10w-40, which is the oil I always used in the past because it performed so well. My startup puff is gone after 2000 miles and my mileage increased alot. Dont do the castrol. Castrol is notorious for sludge buildup. I had read that the formula had changed and that problem was gone, but not with my car.
 
Don,

Check that bottle and see if its the new formulation, SM. If it is then it has much reduced zinc and phos. required by the SM designation.

20w50 Valvoline VR1 Racing oil (zinc additive) here...hot oil pressure is about 25-30 psi and cruise is about 50-55 psi...stock bottom end with almost 120k miles on it so the motor is a "little" loose :)
 
My opinion on 15-40 is that you'd be better off running 10-40. Same hot oil viscosity, just thinner when cold. Run the thinnest oil you can while maintaining correct oil pressure. Your engine will thank you. james

Hm...you make a good point. I don't know much about the specifics of oil but it makes sense to me. I've always just used 5/10w30 but might try 10w40 next time.

What's a popular additive to use?
 
Don,

Check that bottle and see if its the new formulation, SM. If it is then it has much reduced zinc and phos. required by the SM designation.

??? I'll have to look at a bottle the next time I'm in the parts store. I thought that stuff had the zinc in it? I hope so cause I'm running a flat tappet cam!
 
I am running a few oils in my cars right now. I like the Rotella, it's in my DLS built engine as suggested by the builder. I am running the Valvoline Racing in most of the other modified cars, that stuff is hard to beat too....
Got a couple on the Castrol with the lucas. I can't say I have had problems with any of them yet. Keep in mind I don't put many miles on so....

If I could only buy one from here on out it would be the Valvoline Racing....



I have a friend of a friend that works for a huge testing facility. They spent a long time and alot of money testing oils for their PRIVATE results. They are a multi BILLION $ company. Anyway there results showed that the best overall non specific use oil was Moblie Synthetic hands down......
 
I use the Valvoline Race not street legal with Zinc in it. I think it has more Zinc then the VR1.

The VR1 has more zinc. .13 vs. .12 The info is actually posted on there website if you look up the specs. That's a nice feature since almost all other companies don't list zinc content.
 
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