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How to bleed Powermaster?

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#1HotRod

Member
Joined
Aug 17, 2004
Messages
392
Learning to hate these Powermaster brakes, now I see why folks do the conversions. Cobbled up parts to fix it including used but working (at least I'm told it was before I purchased it) master cylinder. Got everything hooked up (that plunger is a real bit--!) but can't bleed it. With full reservoir nothing comes out of the two front lines regardless what I do. I learn that the high pressure line has to be primed, that dealerships used to have a J tool that would pressurized system then air could be bled from other lines. I can't figure how to bleed the high pressure hose, mostly 'cuz way it situated. If disconnect it & have someone prime it with ignition & brake peddle, how does one re-connect it without getting air back in? After all the work so far hate to have towed to dealership (& afraid they'll tell me they can't do it after all!). Help, any one know for certain how to bleed it after complete replacement?
 
With time and patience, it can be done.

Bleed the line connections first before you do the pressure side. Some call this 'bench bleeding' but I did it mounted in the car. Key off, pump the pedal slowly and the air will work out faster. Don't allow the air to go back in the hoses either.

On the pressure or pump side, it is a matter of depressurizing and repressurizing with time intervals between to allow the air to 'collect'. I did it on my complete rebuild. With the time intervals between de- & re-pressure, the air works out fairly quickly. Trick is to wait after depressure until the fluid in the bowl is no longer cloudy. The air bubbles are so fine it looks this way. Can't say I remember priming the pump line. If I remember it did that on its own, but I had a brand new pump. I can give you a more detailed explanation if you wish.

There are some more details here...
http://www.gnttype.org/techarea/brakes/brakespage.html

Let me know if I can be of any more help.
Also feel free to eamil me directly.
 
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