This has to be one of the more disscussed topics on this and other boards. I STF and found plenty of folks saying this is what they did, but never found any how-to's.
Well having just did it and finding out that it's one of the most easiest fixes (compared to the numerous other Body, and Mechanical things these cars need done) I decided to post up one here real quick. Moderators if this has been covered before or this is the wrong forum please handle appropriately.
Now then let's begin.
This write-up covers using 1/4"-20 Nut Rivets, if you decided to go with a different size you'll need to adjust accordingly but the procedure is the same.
To become familiar with the process (and to verify I had the right Drill Bit) I set one Nut Rivet in a piece of scrap metal I have plenty of laying around from Welding. You might want to try it out that way too before ripping into your Doors.
Tools Required:
1) 1 Phillips Head Screw Driver
2) 1 Nut Riveter (see note 1)
3) 2 per side 1/4"-20x1 Machine Screws
4) 1 23/64" Drill Bit (see note 2)
5) 1 Electric Drill (corded or cordless)
Note 1:
If you don't already have a Nut Riveter Astro Pneumatic #1440 kit can be had for around $64.00 or if you have a Harbor Freight Store nearby you can grab their 45 PC. THREADED INSERT RIVETER KIT as I did. Both kits come with Nut Rivets in different sizes so you won't have to go hunting around for them.
Note 2:
Depending on whose Nut Rivets you use you may need a different sized Drill Bit. At worst it'll be at least one more 11/32" (remember I'm only talking about 1/4"-20 Nut Rivets). Use a Caliper or Thread, Bolt, Nut Gauge and get the outside diameter of the Nut Rivet. Tolerances tend to be sloppy these days but if you buy your own (aren't using one of those kit's I mentioned) from a decent Fastener Company they will tell you what size hole to drill. Like with Tapping a hole.
Remember measure twice cut once
Procedure:
1) Remove Upper Door Panel.
2) Before you start drilling, be sure that the track and rollers for the Door Glass isn't exposed, you don't want to get any shaving in there.
3) Drill out the holes using the Drill Bit sized for the Nut Rivet. If your holes were already pushed out or burred around the edges from using a larger sized Screw you'll need to get the area flush again. A Die Grinder w/a Grinding wheel will make short work of the task, Otherwise a file will do. Work the outside of the hole till it's flat.
4) Take a Nut Rivet and place it into the hole and check the fit. It should slide right in with little or no effort. If it won't check the hole and maybe run the drill through the hole again, or use a Round File.The fit shouldn't be sloppy but not too snug either, you want a nice round hole so don't work any one side more than the other. Once your satisfied with the fit remove the Nut Rivet.
5) The rest is no different that using a regular Rivet Gun. Place the appropriate Nose Piece in the Gun and secure a Nut Rivet to it. Place the nut Rivet in the hole and make sure it's flush with the surround sheet metal, then squeeze the Gun to set the Rivet. You screw the hose piece out when your done from the backside of the tool (it won't just pull away like a regular Rivet Gun does).
6) After both holes are done, button everything up and use the new screws to put the Pull Strap back on.
Shouldn't take more than 15~20 minutes per side. I could've welded the holes up and re-tapped them but that's far more work. This fix cost me less than $25.00 and is far easier. Also as others have posted who used these it's nice and tight. The Pull straps will give before these new fasteners will.
Enjoy
Greg
Well having just did it and finding out that it's one of the most easiest fixes (compared to the numerous other Body, and Mechanical things these cars need done) I decided to post up one here real quick. Moderators if this has been covered before or this is the wrong forum please handle appropriately.
Now then let's begin.
This write-up covers using 1/4"-20 Nut Rivets, if you decided to go with a different size you'll need to adjust accordingly but the procedure is the same.
To become familiar with the process (and to verify I had the right Drill Bit) I set one Nut Rivet in a piece of scrap metal I have plenty of laying around from Welding. You might want to try it out that way too before ripping into your Doors.
Tools Required:
1) 1 Phillips Head Screw Driver
2) 1 Nut Riveter (see note 1)
3) 2 per side 1/4"-20x1 Machine Screws
4) 1 23/64" Drill Bit (see note 2)
5) 1 Electric Drill (corded or cordless)
Note 1:
If you don't already have a Nut Riveter Astro Pneumatic #1440 kit can be had for around $64.00 or if you have a Harbor Freight Store nearby you can grab their 45 PC. THREADED INSERT RIVETER KIT as I did. Both kits come with Nut Rivets in different sizes so you won't have to go hunting around for them.
Note 2:
Depending on whose Nut Rivets you use you may need a different sized Drill Bit. At worst it'll be at least one more 11/32" (remember I'm only talking about 1/4"-20 Nut Rivets). Use a Caliper or Thread, Bolt, Nut Gauge and get the outside diameter of the Nut Rivet. Tolerances tend to be sloppy these days but if you buy your own (aren't using one of those kit's I mentioned) from a decent Fastener Company they will tell you what size hole to drill. Like with Tapping a hole.
Remember measure twice cut once
Procedure:
1) Remove Upper Door Panel.
2) Before you start drilling, be sure that the track and rollers for the Door Glass isn't exposed, you don't want to get any shaving in there.
3) Drill out the holes using the Drill Bit sized for the Nut Rivet. If your holes were already pushed out or burred around the edges from using a larger sized Screw you'll need to get the area flush again. A Die Grinder w/a Grinding wheel will make short work of the task, Otherwise a file will do. Work the outside of the hole till it's flat.
4) Take a Nut Rivet and place it into the hole and check the fit. It should slide right in with little or no effort. If it won't check the hole and maybe run the drill through the hole again, or use a Round File.The fit shouldn't be sloppy but not too snug either, you want a nice round hole so don't work any one side more than the other. Once your satisfied with the fit remove the Nut Rivet.
5) The rest is no different that using a regular Rivet Gun. Place the appropriate Nose Piece in the Gun and secure a Nut Rivet to it. Place the nut Rivet in the hole and make sure it's flush with the surround sheet metal, then squeeze the Gun to set the Rivet. You screw the hose piece out when your done from the backside of the tool (it won't just pull away like a regular Rivet Gun does).
6) After both holes are done, button everything up and use the new screws to put the Pull Strap back on.
Shouldn't take more than 15~20 minutes per side. I could've welded the holes up and re-tapped them but that's far more work. This fix cost me less than $25.00 and is far easier. Also as others have posted who used these it's nice and tight. The Pull straps will give before these new fasteners will.
Enjoy
Greg
