How to repair your leather wrap steering

lee01

1GR8MMBR
Joined
Jul 17, 2008
My leather on original steering wheel was pretty ugly plus there a piece missing a few scratches etc....you know a well worn steeing wheel that suffer from too much boost and fun!!

So here the how to on repairing the leather on your GN or T's

The key ingredient is cyanoacrylate and 'What the h*ll is that you say????' (well its simply humm...Krazy glue, yup )
Krazy glue will blend to the leather and keeping it all together. Your steering wheel will remain quite soft (if I may say).
It took my about 3 hours on and off to get it ready to paint. I very happy of the final result!

My steering looked like this, wasn't pretty at all :
DSCF1008-3.jpg


Ok here what you need:

Sandpaper 80, 180 and 220
1x tube of Krazy glue
Some degreaser like brake clean
Couple of hours of your free time.

First thing to do:
Clean your wheel with the degreaser, make sure its clean and oil free

Then use the 80 grit sand paper and scuff you repair area.
leatherfix.jpg



Next use the Krazy clue to fill the little cracks. For bigger hole little I have, you need to built it up meaning a little at a time. Let it dry, put a little more and so on.
leatherfix1.jpg

leatherfix2.jpg



------ Little tip here: Use the Krazy glue in thin coat only, this way you will have less runs and lot more easy to sand.

Next sand with the 180- grit sandpaper. Fallow the contour on the wheel and look for ridges and high/low spot. Always try to blend (key word for this job!!!)
This part is a repeat step many times...
leatherfix3.jpg


Next, use more Krazy over the complete area. Again in thin coat.
------- Next tip: You don't want to see and feel the skin under the leather (white stuff under the grey leather) because it will show on the finish product. You want a smooth surface.
leatherfix4.jpg



Next, almost done preping.
Recoat the repair area with another thin coat and sand with 220 grit sandpaper. Sand/Scuff all your steering leather to help the paint stick. You want a smooth feel without any visible marking/scuff....
leatherfix5.jpg


Notice how the missing pieces is now filled and smooth.
leatherfix6.jpg


Next, clean the steering again with alcool base product like brake clean
then apply the paint in thin coat only. Repeat 3-5 times depending on your steering. I personnaly applied 4 coats of SEM color match paint.

Speaking of paint; I used a custom mix SEM aerosol spray can base on a 1983 Buick leather sample. My local parts store did the mix.
SEM code 3089
GM Code 16CN

Here the result! Look like new again!
My total cost:
30.00$ for the SEM spray can
4 hours of labors

leatherafter.jpg

leatherafter2.jpg


HOPE THIS HELP!!!
 
It sure does............... now where is my superglue!!!:cool:

One question.......... how does it feel?
 
It sure does............... now where is my superglue!!!:cool:

One question.......... how does it feel?

Its feel smooth, very similar to my other un-dye wheel. Pretty much the same glare too.
I don't feel the repair.

It just doesn't have that leather smell :rolleyes:

leathercomparaison.jpg
 
+1 is it hard in some spots and soft in others?

Its pretty all soft, were the biggest repair is, its hard but when you press it down, the surrounding will somewhat absorb it.

You don't see the repair or feel it. Its SILKY SMOOTH :biggrin:
 
I can foresee the mess Im going to get myself into.......

From American Pie 2....

"Ummm, I glued myself toooooooo, uhhh myself"
 
LOL.............

I should just send you my wheel since your so good at it and all!:eek: Not the glue part........ well....... maybe that part?:D
 
Its pretty all soft, were the biggest repair is, its hard but when you press it down, the surrounding will somewhat absorb it.

You don't see the repair or feel it. Its SILKY SMOOTH :biggrin:

I Want That! :biggrin:
 
I am doing this right now to my 87gn's wheel. My wheel was in BAAAD shape. I started out with super glue, but after 3 tubes of it I switched to a thicker 60 second epoxy that builds higher faster. Im just using it to fill in the largest of cracks.

I am actually doing most of the gluing with the wheel on the car. I do a little every day, since I have been driving the car every day as of late. I just keep a can of brake cleaner, a tube of glue, some qtips and a rag, and every time I get a spare 5min with the car I fill in a new gap or crack. Been doing this for a week or so, and I think Im going to take the wheel off this weekend and prime it. Brian at Gbody parts has the correct paint for this, but I am going to place a large order to him pretty soon, so I'll just get the paint at that time. total time invested will most likely be right at 4 total hours, and my wheel was BAD.... I kinda wished I had shot some pics to show you guys of the before and after...

So far: I LOVE having a smooth steering wheel! The $250 for a re wrap just was not in the budget for a while, but this will definitely hold me over, and the price is perfect!
 
Noticed in the catalog that SEM sent me was listed a part #38422 leather and vinyl repair compound.Comes in a 3oz tube and claims to repair cuts and abrasions on leather and vinyl.Anyone heard of this or are we looking at higher priced flexible super glue here? :confused:
 
Little update/feedback,

its been almost 7 month since i'ved done the repair/redye and as of today, its still in perfect condition!

My car saw many very hot days....also very cold one.

No paint fade, or discoloration. The dye is holding on perfect.

I doesn't leave any residue on your hands :cool:
 
Hi
This paint that you had specially mixed. Do you think it would be a very very close match to there parts in the car? I am restoring a 58 that has alot of rust areas.. One of them is the glove box. Its just surface rust that I have already cleaned off but the box needs paint. I have tried a few off the shelf brands but nothing matches close enough for my liking...Any advise?
Thanks! Bill
 
Hi
This paint that you had specially mixed. Do you think it would be a very very close match to there parts in the car? I am restoring a 58 that has alot of rust areas.. One of them is the glove box. Its just surface rust that I have already cleaned off but the box needs paint. I have tried a few off the shelf brands but nothing matches close enough for my liking...Any advise?
Thanks! Bill

Off the self are ok when redoing a whole dash or a change over.
For specific part, like the glove box, have your paint match would be very close yes.
Make sure you bring a part of the actual 'untouch' 'unfaded' color you need to have mixed.
So far all the paint I had made mixed were all pretty damn close.

Do not forget, if you put a dark primer it 'may' change the final color result.

You should test with a black and white chart (generaly available at the store) and see which one is closer to the fianl color you need.
 
Where do you suggest I go for the color match? A regular paint store or some sort of specialty shop. I am going to try the wheel thing too...Mine is a mess! Great post thanks!
 
Where do you suggest I go for the color match? A regular paint store or some sort of specialty shop. I am going to try the wheel thing too...Mine is a mess! Great post thanks!

Your local automotive part store. I can't say what you have around, I got mine from a Benson source, I think NAPA can mix paint too.

They need to be able to mix SEM products. I had the choice of spray can or in quart.
 
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