How to replace Control arm bushings???

[1BADT]

I am going to replace my Upper & Lower ball joints, control arm bushings etc this weekend. Anyone have tips or tricks? Step by step instructions? Any help is greatly appreciated, THANKS...

 

[UNGN]

Put the frame on Jackstands and a floor jack under the lower control arm. loosen the Shock but DO NOT REMOVE IT.

Wire the brake calipers to the frame, so you won't have to bleed the system.

Loosen all the nuts(but don't remove) and Pickle fork the ball joints. The spring won't come flying out with the shock in place.

The lower control arm will likely catch on the brake dust shield. Other than that, the front end should just fall apart.After the spindle is off, lower the floor jack slowly and the spring will get loose. undo the shock and everything should come off.


To reassemble, attach the spindle to the UCA loosely, put a jack under the LCA and jack up to attach the shock. Attach the LCA to the spindle, then jack it up to put the LCA bolts into the frame (use a big screw driver to align) No spring compressor required.

Again, the shock acts as the "safety chain"

 

[AsphaltAnihil8r]

Originally posted by UNGN
Put the frame on Jackstands and a floor jack under the lower control arm. loosen the Shock but DO NOT REMOVE IT.

Wire the brake calipers to the frame, so you won't have to bleed the system.

Loosen all the nuts(but don't remove) and Pickle fork the ball joints. The spring won't come flying out with the shock in place.

The lower control arm will likely catch on the brake dust shield. Other than that, the front end should just fall apart.After the spindle is off, lower the floor jack slowly and the spring will get loose. undo the shock and everything should come off.


To reassemble, attach the spindle to the UCA loosely, put a jack under the LCA and jack up to attach the shock. Attach the LCA to the spindle, then jack it up to put the LCA bolts into the frame (use a big screw driver to align) No spring compressor required.

Again, the shock acts as the "safety chain"

Not on my car ,,,with my LCA dangling in the air ,the springs still would not come out,,had no spring compressor,,so I jacked it back up to compress the spring and took a torch to it to heat it slightly to actually make a lowered spring,then lowered and was able to remove the springs,also had to rent a spring comprssor to reinstall the NEW springs

 

[arista5]

i priced out changing the bushings and found out from GM the NEW uppers are still avail with new bushings and ball joints so i just bought 2 new uppers for abotu $220 or so and was much happier

 

[UNGN]

Originally posted by AsphaltAnihil8r
Not on my car ,,,with my LCA dangling in the air ,the springs still would not come out,,had no spring compressor,,so I jacked it back up to compress the spring and took a torch to it to heat it slightly to actually make a lowered spring,then lowered and was able to remove the springs,also had to rent a spring comprssor to reinstall the NEW springs

If you undo the LCA bolts at the frame, you should have the LCA neatly on the floor jack, when you lower it down. You can undo the last bit of threads from the shock from the front of the car, so you are out of the path of the spring (Though I can't imagine there is much left in the spring at the full extension of the shock).

If you don't undo the LCA bolts at the frame, the LCA will rotate down and the spring can get stuck on the perch with lots of spring energy still stored in it. I'm guessing this is the bad deal you experienced.

Reversing this process is actually easier and safer than relying on an unreliable spring comressor.

 

[AsphaltAnihil8r]

Originally posted by UNGN


If you don't undo the LCA bolts at the frame, the LCA will rotate down and the spring can get stuck on the perch with lots of spring energy still stored in it. I'm guessing this is the bad deal you experienced.

Yes you are correct...

 

[tc86gn]

You can take the spring out easily but will need a compressor to reinstall it. Only have to compress it a little bit though. Also lower the car completely before tightening all of the control arm bushings or the bushings will be in a bind and will wear out quickly. I have done boo koo of these.

 

[Buick Beginner]

Some info for ya

If you scroll down to the bottom of my website you'll see some links to information, one of them is "front end rebuild". Click on it and it'll have quite a long story and some pictures. The web address is www.outintheshop.com - BB

 

[AsphaltAnihil8r]

Originally posted by tc86gn
You can take the spring out easily but will need a compressor to reinstall it. Only have to compress it a little bit though. Also lower the car completely before tightening all of the control arm bushings or the bushings will be in a bind and will wear out quickly. I have done boo koo of these.

I tightened my bushings while the car was suspended on the Jacks,,should I lower the car on the wheels and retighten,,How tight should they be?? mine are Pretty darn tight now(the bolts)

Dennis

 

[ThikStik]

I always make sure to put spring at same "clocking" as the spring can become canted if not. Had one that rubbed shock once.
Also a good tip is to freeze new bushings to help them knock in easier. Another tip, presoak all bolts and joints with PB blaster.

 

[tc86gn]

I tightened my bushings while the car was suspended on the Jacks,,should I lower the car on the wheels and retighten,,How tight should they be?? mine are Pretty darn tight now(the bolts)

It isn't gonna hurt it. But, This is something that makes sense to do. If they are tightened with the suspension dangling, then that is the point where the bushing is clocked in to the control arms. That is the best way I can explain it.
You may also find that the car sits a little higher in the front because the bushing that was tightened with the dangling suspension is not allowing it to sit level, thus creating undue wear on the bushings. I also tighten them pretty darn tight. 2 grunts and a groan. Not sure of the specific torque. Just so long as they are tight.