HR Motor Mount Install

[blackgn1]

Is it better to do both at the same time? Lack for free time puts me with little time to work on the car. One at a time would work better for me. Seems that lifting the motor and doing both would be the best but time is not on my side right now. Got the front off the car and I'm running out of time to make it to N.C. and possibly even Bowling Green.

 

[Audie1]

Might as well do both if it's apart. Nothing to it really. I put an HR on the DVRs side & a New OE Mount on the Pass side. No more tie down strap. :biggrin:

 

[86 got boost]

Im running one on my drivers side now (cost) w/ stock mount on pass. but it is better to do at the same time. I just wanted to remove the strap at the time. plus the warden (wife) w/ 200 an WHAT!!!! didn't get me both....

 

[TR Custom Parts]

I would do both. Not just because I sell them either. Had just the drivers side and my motor was leaning just a bit towards the pass side. Pass side had the stock motor mount with less than 30K on it BUT 22 years of sitting there so guess it had compressed some? When I did my turbo and header changes last year it was an ideal time to change out the pass side mount. Motor sits dead level after that.

 

[SS/GN]

I would do both. Not just because I sell them either. Had just the drivers side and my motor was leaning just a bit towards the pass side. Pass side had the stock motor mount with less than 30K on it BUT 22 years of sitting there so guess it had compressed some? When I did my turbo and header changes last year it was an ideal time to change out the pass side mount. Motor sits dead level after that.

I have to agree and the aftermarket stock replacements do not seem as good as the original,maybe some brands are better than others Those HR mounts sure are the cats a$$.If you plan on keeping the car for a long time the HR will be their as long as you will need it.Just saying

Kevin

 

[machinegun]

Doing both sides is an hour to 1.5 hour job at most. ( Minus setup to get started )

Do it right and do both you will be happier

 

[Pronto]

For you guys running both with the slic scoop, how's clearance to the frame? With my old mounts I'm already close. I supposed I modify the scoop but that's not fun.

 

[coach]

I run both. Have no clearance issues anywhere. Matter of fact, I still had my OEMs' when I did my 3 inch downpipe and it knocked on the A-arm a little. After I did the HR mounts, I had about 1/2 to 3/4 inch clearance and NO MORE KNOCKING. The other guy is correct. It takes about 1 1/2 to 2hrs max to do both. The major thing you will notice is, when the car is running, you have to look at the pullies to tell. The motor sits perfectly still, no more rocking as it idles. Most every item Paul( HR ) sells is "The Best ". They are worth every penny.

Coach

 

[Roger]

I did both - the setup time (jack, jackstands, tools creeper, etc, etc, etc, etc, cleanup afterwards) took as much time as the actual install of both. I now have a lift - don't know how I got along without it or an air compressor.

 

[gusszgs]

The stuff Paul makes is top shelf. I purchased a set of upper & lower rear arms for my '71 and the they are very nice pieces.

 

[bishir]

I plan on doing my driver's side soon. Right now the rubber is compressed and I have a hard time seeing where the block bolts are located. Any tips, pictures, or advice?

 

[russgoodman]

I plan on doing my driver's side soon. Right now the rubber is compressed and I have a hard time seeing where the block bolts are located. Any tips, pictures, or advice?

I put a 2x6 between my jack and the oil pan, cranked the jack up slightly. I was able to remove the bolt that holds the mount onto the frame and it came right out this way. Then I just jacked it up some more (make sure no lines or wires pinch behind the engine/firewall area) and was able to access the bolts that hold the motor mount to the block through the wheel well with a long extension and a swivel. It was about 1000x easier than I figured it would be.

 

[bishir]

Great, my transmission and driver's side header is out right now so I figure this would be as good of a time as any..

 

[Toady]

I put a 2x6 between my jack and the oil pan, cranked the jack up slightly. I was able to remove the bolt that holds the mount onto the frame and it came right out this way. Then I just jacked it up some more (make sure no lines or wires pinch behind the engine/firewall area) and was able to access the bolts that hold the motor mount to the block through the wheel well with a long extension and a swivel. It was about 1000x easier than I figured it would be.

Thanks for this info. I was pulling my hair out trying to get to the front block bolt until I saw this and jacked the engine up higher.

 

[bishir]

My mounts came in. Wow, these things are BEEFY!!! Anyways, I'm planning on doing this job tonight. I was wondering if it's a good idea to try to change them with the transmission out of the car. Should I leave my passenger side mount in and do the driver's side first then do the passenger side?

 

[Quiky One]

My mounts came in. Wow, these things are BEEFY!!! Anyways, I'm planning on doing this job tonight. I was wondering if it's a good idea to try to change them with the transmission out of the car. Should I leave my passenger side mount in and do the driver's side first then do the passenger side?

Do a complete how to. I need to do this and it would be appreciated.