Hydroboost brakes from 84 Regal
- Thread starter LIVE4RDO
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1KWIKSIX
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- Sep 29, 2007
GNRick,
Funny you mention this, as I was just discussing this with another Buick buddy who's also done the HydroBoost conversion.
He said that this is normal with the HydroBoost. I have found similar with my Tallon Hydraulics HydroBoost / PSC reservoir combination too!
I find that after releasing the brake pedal from fully depressed (to the floor) position, I can count 1-2-3 steamboats and it fully returns.
We compared notes and found the same timing on both our cars.
Think that if it takes longer to return , like 7 steam boats , it's too much and some other issue must be prevalent.
My vacuum brake set up was a little quicker to return and not as noticeable.
So, I guess it's just something you'll experience and have to get used to with the HydroBoost Brake set up.
Funny you mention this, as I was just discussing this with another Buick buddy who's also done the HydroBoost conversion.
He said that this is normal with the HydroBoost. I have found similar with my Tallon Hydraulics HydroBoost / PSC reservoir combination too!
I find that after releasing the brake pedal from fully depressed (to the floor) position, I can count 1-2-3 steamboats and it fully returns.
We compared notes and found the same timing on both our cars.
Think that if it takes longer to return , like 7 steam boats , it's too much and some other issue must be prevalent.
My vacuum brake set up was a little quicker to return and not as noticeable.
So, I guess it's just something you'll experience and have to get used to with the HydroBoost Brake set up.
Ok thanks. I don't think it's 7 steamboats. It was the same with the factory reservoir. So I guess that third port isn't any more effective than the "T" with 2 ports. Oh well, at least it looks badass.
SpeedRacerX
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- Joined
- Jan 20, 2014
I completed my hydroboost conversion with the PSC reservoir and everything turned out great EXCEPT I can't bleed the brakes. I also swapped the rubber brake lines for braided. I get fluid to the braided line and to the caliper at the bottom banjo bolt. But I get zero fluid from the bleeder.
What the heck could that mean?
I drove it and the brakes are all the way to the floor.
No leaks from 9+ connections though. Lol.
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What the heck could that mean?
I drove it and the brakes are all the way to the floor.
No leaks from 9+ connections though. Lol.
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G900A using Tapatalk
SpeedRacerX
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- Joined
- Jan 20, 2014
Pics of my setup.
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1KWIKSIX
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- Joined
- Sep 29, 2007
May sound silly, but remove the bleeder nipple and ensure that there is no debris or obstructions.
I removed my factory proportioning valve on the frame and installed an adjustable wilwood which hangs beside the master cylinder. Was able to bleed the rear brakes no problem, but I had a difficult time bleeding my front brakes. Installed new front L&R brake lines to the callipers when I installed my 2WD blazer spindle / dual caliber change over at the same time as my HydroBoost installation.
My Motive Power Bleeder wouldn't even succeed in getting fluid thru the front brake lines. I did have some luck (finally) using my Mity-Vac vacuum pump in being a able to suck some fluid thru.
Then had a buddy help me bleed the brakes (the old fashioned way) by pumping the brake pedal in unison with opening / closing the bleed nipple on the caliber in order bleeding the air out and get the fluid moving.
My suggestion is to try a Mighty-Vac pump and pull the fluid thru.
I removed my factory proportioning valve on the frame and installed an adjustable wilwood which hangs beside the master cylinder. Was able to bleed the rear brakes no problem, but I had a difficult time bleeding my front brakes. Installed new front L&R brake lines to the callipers when I installed my 2WD blazer spindle / dual caliber change over at the same time as my HydroBoost installation.
My Motive Power Bleeder wouldn't even succeed in getting fluid thru the front brake lines. I did have some luck (finally) using my Mity-Vac vacuum pump in being a able to suck some fluid thru.
Then had a buddy help me bleed the brakes (the old fashioned way) by pumping the brake pedal in unison with opening / closing the bleed nipple on the caliber in order bleeding the air out and get the fluid moving.
My suggestion is to try a Mighty-Vac pump and pull the fluid thru.
Last edited:
SpeedRacerX
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- Jan 20, 2014
Plenty of fluid. MC was bench bled. I have fluid to the caliper, just not through it. Weird.
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SpeedRacerX
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- Jan 20, 2014
I have this vac pump system that I use to do oil removal and changes from my daily driver that has its oil filter on the top of the motor. Works really well but it's big. I'll try it.
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SpeedRacerX
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- Jan 20, 2014
I have a Mityvac 7400. I'll try it today.
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SpeedRacerX
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- Jan 20, 2014
Also, my brake light came on and stays on. What triggers that?
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SpeedRacerX
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- Jan 20, 2014
Just read up. Apparently air can trigger this too. Hopefully go out when I bleed them.
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SpeedRacerX
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- Jan 20, 2014
Mityvac did the trick. Once the Mityvac got the fluid flowing, I could bleed as normal. Passenger side took some time but the driver side was quick.
Oh my goodness!! I now need to learn to drive this car all over again. The pedal is way up and firm. This car never had brakes that felt this good. Amazing.
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Oh my goodness!! I now need to learn to drive this car all over again. The pedal is way up and firm. This car never had brakes that felt this good. Amazing.
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G900A using Tapatalk
The slow return pedal is normal. Over time, 2-300 miles of driving it will either improve, or you’ll forget about it. I lost count on how many conversions I’ve done but it is typical.
I probably have 3000 miles on it.
I would imagine I have over 2 on mine, I think I stopped paying attention
captndave737
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- Feb 14, 2006
Mine's got over 150,000 on it.
