Ideas and Input Needed For Engine Rebuild, Stroker?

[UnderPSI]

I spun the no.6 rod bearing on my 86 T-Type. It is the orignal engine and has 90,xxx miles on it. I want to rebuild the bottom end on it but need some ideas. The car will not be driven very much and for the most part it is basically stock. I am going to budget for around $2500 for the project. I would like to make the bottom end a strong, good foundation to build on in the future. As I get the money, I would like to get larger turbo, intercooler, heads etc. For now I will be reusing all the other stock parts and want to focus on the block for now. I plan to do all the work I can myself except for the obvious machine work. I have very long term goals of 500+ hp so I want to build a block that can handle this. Is this possible within my budget? I want to stay away from a roller cam for cost reasons. How strong are the stock parts with a girdle? Since I already have to turn the crank, resize the rods, replace the rings, etc I was considering the GN1 stroker kit which is basically an entire rotating assembly for around $1900 plus machine work. Are the parts in this kit strong enough to handle 500hp? Anyone have expierence with these strokers or are they a bad idea? How much machine work is needed with this kit? Your ideas and input would be helpful. Thanks

 

[Just a Six??]

I dont know that exact kit but strokers are popular altho for 500 HP you dont Need one. They help but are not Needed to make the 500 HP you want.
Either get billet centre caps or a girdle & cryotreat the stock crank & you are fine.
Two important things You Need!
#1 A Good Machine shop who KNOW these engines & what they need spec wise. Also who Know how to do a Line Bore & Hone Properly!! That means heads on & torque plates for pistons etc. etc.
#2 Dont Detonate the crap out of it! That kills any motor.

 

[UnderPSI]

I was thinking of going with a girdle already. I am also researching for a good machine shop in Florida with expierence on these engines. Thanks

 

[UnderPSI]

If the stock crank is ok and just needs to be turned, would forged rods and pistons with the stock crank and a girdle be reliable for these goals?

 

[forcefed3.8's]

Stock crank, stock rods, forged pistons, and center caps with handle very low 10's, about 600rwhp with no problem. The stock rods hold up very well in boosted applications. A stock bottom end will hold up to 500fwhp on a clean tune. $2500 won't do a stroker, not even close.

 

[charlief1]

If the stock crank is ok and just needs to be turned, would forged rods and pistons with the stock crank and a girdle be reliable for these goals?

Pretty much sumed it up but I will add you'll need to increase the budget a bit. $2500 won't go very far when you start doing it. You need to write down a list of what you want to do and then start pricing everything. Not trying to be a bummer just realistic.

 

[49-blues]

The maching and assembly can get exxpensive fast-not to mention the cost of pistons, rings, bearings,arp studs/bolts,cam, lifters & pushrods.my bill was $4200 for new diamonds, new roller cam/lifters& billet caps,then add in the cost of the block, crank, rods, oil pan , flywheel, front cover, new waterpump and i was pushing over$6000. for the shortblock.

 

[BIGPSI]

i did my lower end for around 2500$. that was machine work,rjc girdle,30 over trw's stock rods and crank. just now got 150 miles on it,and i'm pretty happy. combo is in my sig. oh yeah good friend assembled it for me since i had never done one before.

 

[UnderPSI]

i did my lower end for around 2500$. that was machine work,rjc girdle,30 over trw's stock rods and crank. just now got 150 miles on it,and i'm pretty happy. combo is in my sig. oh yeah good friend assembled it for me since i had never done one before.

Have you run it on a dyno yet to see what your hp numbers are?

 

[Slick87gn]

Might be cheaper to get a shortblock from WEBER.:

 

[BIGPSI]

no dyno run yet. still needs fine tuned. i'd say it should be good for some high 10's,and at least 500 hp.

 

[BlackBandit]

If you can do the work yourself (minus machine work) then it's possible do build a solid block on your budget. You aren't going to build a stroker for that though. My advice would be to put together a solid short block with a roller cam. You may have to save a little more to do a roller cam but not much if you buy some used stuff and that little bit of extra is nothing compared to another build if you wipe a cam. Put everything you have for the build in the short block and then do stuff like heads, turbo, intercooler and what not later.

 

[UnderPSI]

If you can do the work yourself (minus machine work) then it's possible do build a solid block on your budget. Put everything you have for the build in the short block and then do stuff like heads, turbo, intercooler and what not later.

That is my current plan. I really haven't looked into the benefits of a roller cam. Some rough figures are rods,pistons and girdle around $1500 and $1000 for machine work,cam,bearings,gaskets ect. Is this a pipe dream or possibly reality?