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Idle Adjustment Question

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PaulRV6

Active Member
Joined
May 25, 2001
Messages
1,670
Just got it running again and now it wants to stall off idle and letting off the gas.
While trying to set the idle to 700-750 (with IAC disconnected per the instructions) I had to adjust the throttle lever screw all the way in to get it to 700-750 rpm. This doesn't seem right to me because before the rebuild it was not like that.
Prior to this adjustment my IAC counts were 75-80 and know they are like 2-6 based on TL.
It idles better but still has a bog or dead spot off idle that wasn't there before.
What can you guys recommend about this? Thanks

paul
 
What's your TPS set at? Did you start by removing your IAC and cleaning it?You say you screwed it all the way in-WOW. My ended up maybe 1/8th inch in.
 
Did you always have the 36# injectors or are they new with the engine? In other words did you have them on the old engine and they worked fine? Set the iac at 25ish in park hot and 45ish in drive, tps 42-46, Make sure you have one screen in the maf. If all else fails you might have to have a differant chip burned. Last resort though, don't do that till you check EVERYTHING first.
 
Well guys, I had already cleaned the IAC prior to putting back on the engine before the last rebuild. I rebuilt the motor, ran it 40 miles, had brg failure, cleaned all parts and rebuilt again. So before last rebuild (last month) did not have this type of problem.

I am referring to the idle stop adj screw is all the way in against the spring, not the IAC. I reset the TPS to .43 idle.

Does this sound like a vac leak?

paul
 
Good morning all, thought I would have more responses to my question.
Any else want to contribute? Thanks

paul
 
You say you have turbolink? Good, adjust the IAC with it plugged in, don't disconnect. Lower the idle screw till you see 25 on IAC on TL. Adjust TPS to 42-46. Start car and see if IAC moved at all, if so turn the Idle screw till you get 25ish agian. See where TPS is. Adjust if needed. Put the car in drive IAC should be around 45ish. Try it that way.
 
If your saying the spring is smashed tight because you have it screwed in all the way and the adjustment you have now is to screw it out.. That's the screw I'm referring to.
 
bigtime confused, please help!!

Sorry went trigger happy, back to my problem. Hooked up TL, car warmed up and IAC counts were 40-50. Could not do anything to bring it down to 10-20 as specified. This is with the min air adjustment screw all the way in.
What is going on here, am I getting air in from somewhere else, where????????????
Or don't I have enough air going in?

Thanks for helping me out on this.

paul
 
What are your idle rpms? Between 550 and 900?m What happens when you back the screw out all the way?

Back your screw out all the way and reset your TPS. Try again.

Mine was going goofy at one pt. and I thought it might be the IAC.I was getting either 000 or 175 and idle varied greatly. Replace the IAC and got the numbers down to 20 but they were vary inconsistent. Meaning that thay would be at 20 then 10 then 2 then 30,get my idea. The car was driving o.k no codes and scanmaster was showing all right. Decided to take it for a 300 mile drive. Half way thru the drive #4 exhaust valve spring broke. I should have checked what the IAC was doing but my mind was someplace else.

My point is, could it be something just ready to go.

Do you have an inline check valve inassociation with your PCV valve? Sorry for the long post.
 
Just wondering if this means I have a problem with something in the system or I just need to continue to adjust between the two adjustments.


paul
 
Oh, and to answer your question, just start from the beginning. set your TPS at 40 and begin to screw your screw in. Engine warm-- IAC between 10-30 at idle and TPS between .38--.46. I would say that if your IAC is a little lower or a little higher and everthing else is o.k. leave it alone.

That's what I would do. BUT I AM learning as I go,and by no means a mechanic.Just someone like you,a person with questions.
 
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