Idles good drives ok til 3200-up rpm

[meanchicken]

Sometimes the ohm check won't tell you everything...it's only good for the hard failures... so it's always good to use one of the Caspers coil pack testers if you can get your hands on one.

 

[ThikStik]

I remember that, thats why i still wanted a coil test. And, no doubt, things can happen in 2's and 3's, as they did here for me, go figure. I rechecked the "bad" coil that works, and its consistant. When cold it ohms out infinite on a tower , then after warm , 135k. I hope he has his coil tested beyond the ohm test.

 

[87NAT]

Sometimes the ohm check won't tell you everything...it's only good for the hard failures... so it's always good to use one of the Caspers coil pack testers if you can get your hands on one.

I have the Caspers coil & wire tester combo and it has paid for itself 10 times over in troubleshooting. I have said it before: anyone needing some wires or a coil/module tested PM me and I will gladly do it for them. Only costs a few dollars in shipping to see if thats the problem.

Ed

 

[wbzautocustomiz]

I thank you for offer to test but I guess I should buy one since car will be around to get its fair share of usage is it the CASPERS CCCI IGNITION SIMULATOR PART #102020 $125ish if yes ordering today

 

[TurboBuRick]

Crank bolt tight no play that I can detect and ordered a crank sensor from caspers already just waitin to put on and I have read up on crank sensor adjustment with the "ring" etc. but i wish there was more info on exactly where to place shim etc. just a vague instruction an "how to" I am having trouble adapting to all this stuff on my TR Thanks again guys

Basically your setting gap between the outside of the ring and the sensor. .020-.025 is the factory spec. About the thickness of a matchbook. I like to run it a little tighter myself. After setting the gap, rotate the crank and check gap on all 3 blades as they pass through the sensor. If replacing the sensor, Use AC Delco only.

I recommend putting your money toward Powerlogger before a ignition simulator.

Like I said in other thread, the key words are "blinking ce light". We really need another chip to try. Next would be ecm. Do you have access to these?

 

[Grumpy]

just a wild thought.. what brand of parts are you buying ??? GM ??

 

[meanchicken]

I thank you for offer to test but I guess I should buy one since car will be around to get its fair share of usage is it the CASPERS CCCI IGNITION SIMULATOR PART #102020 $125ish if yes ordering today

Specializing in automotive interconnect and wiring systems

That's it...

 

[wbzautocustomiz]

Update Update fixed it

I think I fixed it with a combo of things not sure which did it; crank sensor good but pinch bolt a little loose tightend to spec, found a few black w/white wires and grounded them, and there was 1 of the wires between coil and ign module that was a little screwed up repaired and now finally she runs WOT like a sum b@#$h!! not sur what fixed it exactly but for now I will take it, AGAIN THANKS FELLAS FOR ALL INPUT,SUGGESTIONS,ETC.

 

[meanchicken]

What was the color of the wire at the coil ign module was messed up?

 

[wbzautocustomiz]

I think yellow w/black cant remember at moment but its the one closest to pass side on ign module