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Idles good drives ok til 3200-up rpm

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wbzautocustomiz

Want my GN to go 11's one day
Joined
Feb 11, 2007
Messages
468
OK this is whats going on, If I get in hard/soft car seems to "redline" and break up really bad but on scanmaster and aftermarket tach this is happenning at around 3200-3400 rpm and at the same time I believe it is my SES light flickers on as it is breaking up (programmed thru TT chip to act as a shift light?) and this happens in park or driving but if I go really really easy on pedal it will let me climb rpms to about 4600-4750 rpms before it breaks up. I have done a ton of parts swapping already from MAF sensor ,ign module, coil pack, new fp reg, new TT chip, new 42 lbs inj, plugs , wires, ECM , FP good, cam sensor dialed in ,all hoses tight, this problem has been killing me and my pocket for over a year now. I need any help you guys have for me I am trying to find out could it be a bad crank sensor? valve springs?, all a shot in the dark just so fustrated that almost sold car for $1500 a month ago so pissed off but I know that car must have some little thing I might be missing. Help me please and Thanks TB forum if u can.
 
make sure the screw and gold metal ring under camsensor cap are tight! i had similar problem and that was it. the metal ring was slipping and the car was breaking up. it was fine at idle ,part throttle,but at wot it broke up
 
could it be a bad crank sensor? valve springs?

crank sensor - yes
valve springs - no

Sounds like you've changed about everything else.... crank sensor is cheap... change it... make sure it's clearanced properly... piece cut out of the side of a plastic 2-liter bottle is perfect for a crank sensor 'feeler gage'... also make sure the cam sensor interupter ring is indexed properly and the keyway isn't broken... as mentioned above...

Do you have a scantool? Costs less than all the above mentioned parts you've been blindly slinging..... just sayin'....:wink:
 
Also check the balancer bolt and the balancer for wobble.

Bryan
 
Yes scanmaster in car was giving me mal code for ign module and coil so thats was a starting point but yep did about $1500 bucks of "slinging parts" so yeah me "dumba--" but I am planning on swapping crank sensor tommoro and just got a caspers cam tool today so I will check that out. My MAF #'s are funny about 100-118 WOT at the popping and breaking up point.
 
I had similiar problem with strange maf #'s, changed maf problem came back a month or two later. installed maf translator with lt1 maf and car has been good since. what kinda maf do u have? myself and a few friends with gn's have not had good luck with stock maf's. most of them are remans.
 
make sure you did not wipe a cam lobe. I chased one the same way found out to be a wiped lobe.
 
Cam sensor

Anytime i've had an issue with a crank sensor my car wont really stumble more like backfire.
I had a similar issue to what you're describing with my car. My cam sensor was installed backwards. The cam sensor is used to synchronize injector pulse if it is not properly installed it will not sync injector pulse properly and the car will stumble under load.

When this was going on with my car I could rev it as high as I wanted in park with no stumble, but under load it would cut out and bog down. I replaced countless ignition and fuel system components and the problem was there.
Casper sells a cam sensor tool to get it dialed in perfectly. Here's the link.
CRE Loaded Ecommerce

Good luck
 
Im not 100% sure if CE light is flickering since the factory gauge cluster has that side of the cluster customizied for aftermarket gauges so I dont have the check engine light socket present but the bulb and wiring has a pink/blk and 2 black/white wires to bulb socket that I am talking about is still functioning and this bulb was lite up when I had a mal code 42 after I replaced ign module cleared codes light went out that is why I think it is the check engine bulb
 
tps good, stock maf, just dont know what it is yet messing up

I would at least try a modern MAF and translator if you can borrow one. Only two kinds of stock MAFs, those that work ok at best if unused NOS and those that don't work. At least try it if you can find another TR owner with one. That would explain your poor MAF numbers too.
 
Did some work but....

Well worked on car found a driver side manifold leak fixed that reset cam sensor was going to put new crank sensor in but did not show up car ran a little smoother but still poppin and breaking up is you put foot in it. My FP is starting to concern me since I noticed after car sits a little while fuel pressure on gauge will drop to 22-25psi on gauge is this normal or not?
 
Make sure you have the bolt in the back of the coil pack. Check ground wires in the back of the head.
 
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