Ignition Switch

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OK good. Reading the STD is the best next to OEM. The "T" is for tilt wheel.

Standard Motor Products US105T Ignition Starter Switch​

 
If I may ask, what issue has you replacing the switch? I’m chasing a periodic failure of the fuel pump to prime, and looking at the ignition switch as a possible culprit.
I replaced mine due to age & the terminals not allowing the same voltage.

I think I gained a volt back after the switch. Had 13ish at battery & alternator a bit less on Scanmaster.
 
If I may ask, what issue has you replacing the switch? I’m chasing a periodic failure of the fuel pump to prime, and looking at the ignition switch as a possible culprit.
I was having issues with the fuel pump priming then while driving the car stalled: lost fuel pump, ac/heater fan blower, trans solenoid (no gear) and high beams. I believe its one of the fusable starter links or ignition switch plug. I really dont know. Hope someone else chimes in :)

Oh once I got the car home the high beams starting working again. Good times!
 
I was having issues with the fuel pump priming then while driving the car stalled: lost fuel pump, ac/heater fan blower, trans solenoid (no gear) and high beams. I believe its one of the fusable starter links or ignition switch plug. I really dont know. Hope someone else chimes in :)

Oh once I got the car home the high beams starting working again. Good times!
Post an update with results. My ignition switch is at least 25yrs old. I was going to put in a new switch just to eliminate it as a possible cause.
 
I have 11.6v at the ECM/IGN fuse & with the headlights on 11.2V. Battery voltage 12.1

I think I have a fusible link issue not under dash ignition switch.
 
I have 11.6v at the ECM/IGN fuse & with the headlights on 11.2V. Battery voltage 12.1

I think I have a fusible link issue not under dash ignition switch.
Also check your voltage at the alternator. Could be the + battery cable if it hasn't been changed. I go battery to ground, get voltage, alternator to get ground, & get voltage. That verifies that my battery & cable from the battery to alternator are good(as long as voltages are close). Then I head into cabin & check voltage.


Post #2 has good prints if ya'd like to trace.
 
Walmart sells 4ga wire in 12/18/24” lengths with ring terminals, adding some extra grounds might be worthwhile.
 
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