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as far as I have been able to tell there was no difference in the downpipes from 79-83... and they dont exactly go down straight at the starter.

the reason your having problems is because you have HA up and down pipes.

A.j.
 
is everyones down pipe tight and hard to get out, or is it just mine because i did a hybrid swap. my down pipe has just one bend then its a straight shot down.
 
I have to take the header off the passenger side to get mine out, which seems to be normal.
 
i just wanted to make sure. i didnt know if i had the wrong down pipe in there. do you have to pull the down pipe out to change spark plugs?
 
I haven't even driven the car unless it's on to the trailer or off it so far Matt. I'm gonna make a few changes with the new down pipe so I might be able to change them without taking it off.
 
charlief1 said:
I haven't even driven the car unless it's on to the trailer or off it so far Matt. I'm gonna make a few changes with the new down pipe so I might be able to change them without taking it off.
Click to expand...

ok, tell me how it works out because i really need to change my down pipe so i dont have to pull it to change plugs.
 
Down Pipe

A.J. thanks for the photo...it shed a lot of light on things...I bent up a hanger to look what I thought the pipe should look like...damn if it didn't look just like that first photo. I was playing with a 2.5 inch pipe...talk about tight...if the bending was off a 1/4 inch Im sure the pipe would not fit.. I still think that a down pipe that followed the frame back and just under the body of the car would be much better. Then you could really forget about changing any of those plugs though:frown:.....I see there is a small heat shield on that starter...If that down pipe runs right next to it...damn that starter must almost glow when the car is running for a while.. Had one car with headers on it with no heat sheild on the starter...car would not start when the motor was hot...Had to wait 45 minutes for the starter to cool off..:rolleyes::eek:
 
Down pipe

That downpipe I was trying to fit on...it was double wall, no wonder that thing was so heavy...maybe that was some way to keep the heat down..makes sense to me.. Just got my Air/Fuel ratio guage...narrow band though...going to use my stock oxygen sensor...yea I know they stink...but I am hoping It will give me some kind of idea of what is happening with the mixture...What I have read is that the wideband A/R setup is pretty much for real serious / racing use...thats not me...When I was younger I use to race around..but now it seems that half the people on the road can't drive and are forever crossing over that yellow line into my lane...it seems that people are just too lazy to keep their car in their lane...If I would Of kept driving like I use to I probably would of been in a 100 accidents by now..now I just drive defensively and figure the other guy is a complete idioit and will be comming into my lane ....especially in PA on these back mountain roads.:eek::frown:
 
Turbo oil feed

I was just looking at the oil inlet on the Turbo....its just a straight threaded hole...How can a flared pipe work ?? There is no seat there for it to press against...Even in the Block where the oil sending unit goes...there is no seat there also...that steel line will be sliding all over the place...The lines I have seen on E-bay are all flared lines...:confused::confused: :eek:
 
Turbo oil feed

Just found one on e-bay new for 12 bucks plus 10 shipping ..braided steel line with the flange that goes on the turbo and a leak proof fitting on the other end that goes into the block with a mini T fitting for an oil pressure guage and a nipple with a nut in the middle of it so you can turn it and keep the t stationary when installing....:):) sweated that one...another obstical overcomed....:rolleyes:
 
Mr. Upholsterer said:
Just found one on e-bay new for 12 bucks plus 10 shipping ..braided steel line with the flange that goes on the turbo and a leak proof fitting on the other end that goes into the block with a mini T fitting for an oil pressure guage and a nipple with a nut in the middle of it so you can turn it and keep the t stationary when installing....:):) sweated that one...another obstical overcomed....:rolleyes:
Click to expand...

can you post a link to it.
 
That's a drain kit not a pressure kit. Your tubo needs an adaptor to hook up to a tube. It's an NPT to flaired tubing. Not a very hard thing to find at a parts store.
 
Drain kit ??

Just one more stupid question ..Why is the drain kit 3 foot when the drain on the bottom of the turbo about 3 inches from the hole in the intake?:confused:
 
again with the jets...

finally got around to checking the ID on those 209 Jets...they were .054 go figure.//.....So I had some .062 from another basket case carb that I threw in...I will start from there...still need a cam to activate the rear accelator pump...thought the caged shaft would activate the pump lever but I was wrong....thats the problem when you look at a drawing that is close to what you have but not exact...Have to call holley and see if they still stock one...so far I am batting about 2out of 3 so thats not too bad, luckily the parts they did not have I was able to fake with bolts. Its going to look good with the carb sitting up on the log knowing it was rebuilt..:rolleyes::):cool:....
had a "T" fitting for the oil line to the turbo...but it was made in china and way , way too bulky and would not clear the block....Hopefully the next one I get will be much smaller so I can at least turn it without hitting the block...
I will see how much I can salvage from that Drain / Feed line I ordered...Usually the drain flange is 5/8 inch...well the hole in the bottom of my turbo is approx that...so make sense that there would be no restriction to the flow.. The flange on the pipe kit I order has a small orfice on it ....oh well we will seee when it gets here....if it ever does...don't trust people on E-Bay...Lot of Air heads if you ask me...:(
 
one step foward two back

Can't believe it...actually got the carb together..:biggrin:..tried setting on top of the plendum...:( found out that since its a double pumper the linkage for the back acc pump was hitting the manifold...bummer...figured out if I put in a 5/8 inch thick spacer plate or heat disipator it would clear....:biggrin: BUT that breather pipe I welded in is too close to the carb will never be able to get the breather on it:(:( Will have to take the whole log off again, remove the valve cover again , cut it off and reattach the pipe on the very front of the valve cover...give me a chance to redrill the holes for the right side of the plendum bracket anyway...too bad there wasn't a way to get this valve cover off without taking the whole thing off...This holly is so long, its like having a small boat up there..A rochester would of been fine...but I had this carb so... I'm getting there slowly but surely...getting to be a wiz at putting on and removing the log..only problem now is the turbo oil drain...the hose is on a barbed fitting..:(:( should of used a flex pipe and just shoved down the back in the hole...:rolleyes:
 

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