I'm going in! (replacing rear brakes)

[d0n_3d]

I need some pointers. I just installed all the new stainless brake lines from classic tube (NICE quality lines btw). I now need to replace the rear brake shoes, wheel cylinders, and springs. I also will need to bleed the entire system once everything is hooked up ready to go. I've never messed with my rear brakes before. Stopping the car used to always be a scary moment at fast speeds! I've since upgraded the front to the 11" Baer brake complete kit system and going with a manual brake master cylinder.

Any pointers on what I should start with first and what to check for? Also, do you need to bleed the new brass proportioning valve? (there is some kind of nipple on the front side of it with a plastic cover over it). I ran all my lines according to the service manual so that is all correct. I already have the 85' S-10 rear wheel cylinders and Kirban larger shoes. Still need to get the spring kit. What about "adjusting" the rear brakes? I didn't know you could adjust them. What needs to be adjusted?

 

[d0n_3d]

oh and I need those brake line hold-down clamps that hold down the lines to the frame.........where do you get replacements? maybe summit has something similar.....

 

[V8Assassin]

oh and I need those brake line hold-down clamps that hold down the lines to the frame.........where do you get replacements? maybe summit has something similar.....

boneyard, any old g-body had them, wish I could be more help on the back brakes. Randy said I had to quit helping on them, breaking more than I was fixing.

 

[BlackMetal]

Adjusting the rear brakes is just referring to spreading the brake shoes out so that they ride just inside the drum lining which means they won't have to travel far during break application, which makes for better performance and better pedal feel. There is a slot on the backing plate with a little plug it in that you need to pry out. Or you can do it by taking off the drum, in which case you won't need to go through that little access hole. There will be a little star wheel or some type of gear, I'm not 100% sure from working on cars at work and only adjusting my GN brakes once, but anyways theres a mechanism that spreads the shoes. Then you pop the drum back on and spin it by hand and just listen for the slightest amount of friction, letting you know the shoes are adjusted to the lining on the drum. You don't want to do it too tight or the brakes will overheat as they will drag while you drive.

Also some guys would tell you to be careful using both the bigger wheel cylinders and the bigger shoes, you don't want the rear wheels locking up on you. Some people would say choose one or the other.

Keep us updated I've always been interested in switching to manual brakes.

 

[d0n_3d]

A good TR friend of mine has run both the bigger shoes and wheel cylinders and adjusted the brakes properly and has not had problem. He can hold like 20 psi of boost at the starting line with the E-brake. As far as I know, Dave Fiscus 8 second TSO car runs manual brakes as does most of the fast cars without problems. Less things to fail like the PM or Hydroboost/Vacuum.

I found some clamps from Summit. No biggie there.

I printed out some instructions from gnttype.org regarding installing new rear wheel cylinders. Do I just follow that? Does anyone know if I have to mess with the prop valve or just leave it alone and bleed all 4 wheels and master cylinder? I have already bench bled the master cylinder.

Thanks guys, keep the tips comin. I'm going to try and tackle this tomorrow. I might actually have brakes for the first time in 2 years!!!

 

[aminga]

Biggest tip. Do one side at a time so you have a reference about where all the springs and links go.

I always thought the shoes self adjusted when the brakes were applied backing up.

 

[d0n_3d]

Thanks guys. I'm getting ready to go in now. I forgot I have an old Haynes manual for the Buick Regal which I can use for reference on the rear brakes. They got a lot of pictures which is nice. I'll let ya know how it turns out. Can't believe this is the first time I'm actually doing this! All the parts in there really look like they are 25 years old!

 

[turbojd]

Biggest tip. Do one side at a time so you have a reference about where all the springs and links go.

I always thought the shoes self adjusted when the brakes were applied backing up.

They're supposed to self-adjust when the car is in reverse, as long as all the hardware is up to the task and not all rusted or froze up. I always use antiseize on the star wheel when doing rear brakes.

 

[aminga]

They're supposed to self-adjust when the car is in reverse, as long as all the hardware is up to the task and not all rusted or froze up. I always use antiseize on the star wheel when doing rear brakes.

That's what I thought.

 

[MSDGN]

You don't need to do anything with the prop valve...start bleeding at pass rear...then drivers rear...pass front then drivers front...you start with the wheel farthest away from MC then go from there...just be very careful that you don't let the MC reservoir run dry or else you will have to bleed the MC and start all over again...check the fluid level in the reservoir...or use one of those autofill bottles...

 

[d0n_3d]

Thanks! I just finished the driverside rear. Well at least I took everything apart and replaced the wheel cylinder. Now I'm trying to figure out how the springs and such go back on. I have the passenger side intact still for reference. I'll keep you updated.

 

[d0n_3d]

I REALLY HOPE I DID THIS RIGHT!!!!!!!!!!

Can someone please verify this is the correct orientation of the springs and such? This is the DRIVER SIDE. Btw, this job was a PITA.

 

[d0n_3d]

For some reason, I have a bad feeling I put that bracket on the left side (with the green spring), on the wrong side. I thought it belonged on the other side. I didn't take a picture like a moron and used the passenger side for reference. It was on the side closest to the front of the car on the other side, so I figured it was a mirror image on the other side. Can someone verify? Does it even matter which side it goes on?

 

[d0n_3d]

This is what my passenger side looked like before taking it apart:

I guess my question is.......when looking directly at each drum assembly, should they look identical or should they be mirrored? (mirrored meaning what is on the left side of the driver side, should be on the right side on the passenger).

I think someone else changed the hardware a LONG time ago on this car because the springs didn't look stock but the cylinders did. I am questioning if they put everything back on in the correct orientation to begin with, thus why I am all thrown off now.

 

[mhogan6]

You are correct. Switch the links to self-adjuster levers.
Also, the link goes on the top anchor pin first, then install the blue spring, the last picture is shows it correctly (passenger side).
HTH

 

[d0n_3d]

You are correct. Switch the links to self-adjuster levers.
Also, the link goes on the top anchor pin first, then install the blue spring, the last picture is shows it correctly (passenger side).
HTH

So you are saying I did the driver side correct? or do I need to make it look like exactly like the passenger side? You are correct, I need to swap positions of the blue spring and link spring on the anchor pin.

 

[mhogan6]

Everything else on driver's side looks correct. Just swap links, and install blue spring after the link.

 

[bsdlinux]

No flames.. but I'm wonder why in the hell your're even bothering with the drum brakes after all the upgrades you've done?? Why not rear discs at this point and do the work once and be done with it.....

 

[d0n_3d]

Because budget doesn't allow for it at the moment ALTHOUGH I plan on doing a Ford 9" down the road with rear disc. My factory 8.5 setup is in good shape right now so that's why I'm still using the stock stuff in the rear.

 

[zpd307]

all i have to say is drum brakes suck.... everything about them sucks. to the replacing of parts, the lack of self adjusting, to their performance. i went to rear discs a couple of years ago, love them. ok, now i am done.