important places to dynamat ....

DR BOOST

Technical advisor
Joined
Aug 2, 2001
what are the key area in a turbobuick that need dynamat? i wouldnt want to lay down 500 lbs of it if i didnt have to.

whats a good way to approach the doors? should i lay down a layer to the inside of the outer panel and then another layer to seal off the inner panel?

thanks for your help
 
Hey Surge!

How can you hear any stereo with that huge turbo spinning anyway?

LOL

For doors I try to put it on the inside behid where the door speaker and around where the speaker mounts inside the door, under the panel.

Later
 
I did my roof which made a huge improvement.

Inner door and the floor would be good place. I like to use any damping material with the foil layer to help block out the heat.
 
thanks guys.

Bob,

im back to playing around with a stock longblock... i love the ticking bomb!
 
WOW, I think I will try to push the limits this year on the hybrid too!

So the question is, are you feeling lucky? Girdle or hard block?
 
i feel much luckier with a 100% bone stock longblock. i have better luck with gm built motors
 
I did where I could reach on the outter door, and used rubberized undercoat for where I couldnt reach, then dynamatted the rest.
 
Homer like dynamat

Well if you have enough horsepower then the weight from the mat is not all that important.:biggrin:

Evaddave
 

Attachments

  • 100_1196.JPG
    100_1196.JPG
    56.5 KB · Views: 2,429
I plan on doing this to my interior next week before i put the interior back together. I ordered dynamat extreme. I plan on doing the roof, floorboard, inside walls and trunk. Any tips from guys who have done it before is appriciated.
 
I was given some stuff from an airline mechanic that they use in airplanes to deaden noise. the box is 5 ft tall and the roll is 30 ft long and it only weighs 20lbs
 
Has Anyone Used The Wanhabe Dyanmat ? Did You Like It?

If you are talking about the stuff i got from airline tech i never used it yet .the thing that sucks is it does not stick.You have to use spray glue.but quality wise the box he gave me is just under $1500.00:eek:. But its certified for airplanes. so that means half if it was for a car:biggrin:. but it is flame resistant and it will not hold moisture. the stuff comes in differant thicknesses. the stuff he gave me is 1/8 inch. you can get it up to 5/8 THICK.I will let you know when i use it.
 
I have these available also--If anyone is interested--sold project and no longer need them. there are 13 each 24" X 24" sheets and they have adhesive on the back....

[/ATTACH]
 
Hmmmm,

Now as you can see from the picture I posted, that I used Dyna matt on my car. I was told, (after I was done,) by the local stereo shop that they use roofing matt to insulate their jobs. Apparently it has adhesive on it and it's peal and stick. Might be worth a trip to the Home Depot to get additional info.

Evaddave

I have also received a few pm's about my install asking for any tips. The only I can give is make sure you use a heat gun, and get a roller that is used to adhere laminates to counter tops.
 
After using various dynamat on my car, I can also say...

If you want to keep your weight addition down, but still add mass to the panels to dampen the vibrations, cut long strips of the material you are using, and place them on the panel instead of a whole sheet. Granted, a full sheet adds more weight, which dampens better, but strips of the stuff also work extremely well if you are looking to save $$ and weight in your install.
Also, if you are going to use spray on product, (I haven't yet) I was told by a friend working at an install shop that they like to use truck bed coating, as opposed to a rubberized undercoating. It goes on thicker, and adds more mass to the panel you are dampening.
 
I have used products from Second Skin Audio on my GN and would recommend them to anybody. Costs less than Dynomat and a superior product in my opinion. I have a layer of mat on the floor, roof, doors and walls. Followed by a heavy application of Spectrum and topped off with Overkill. Definately made a huge difference inside. I took pics that I will post up once I get them developed.

Sound Deadening Materials for Noise Reduction from Second Skin
 
2 or 3 inch wide strips about 2" apart spaced evenly will help save weight. Be uniformed about it. I did solid covereage and what I took out of the car was heavier than what I put back in. I would only strip the inner door skins and inside of the outer skin...I have no speakers in mine. That wood door panel kills a lot. Trunk floor and floor pan are most critical. If your rear interior panels were rattling around like mine were dynamating the back of them as well as the car will fix that. Strips here also. You are adding mass to the panel, that's the key for sound deadening. If you are looking for heat protection which the Xtreme will help with...then go solid coverage. Check out pics on my car domain site.
 
Top