Installing New Speakers

[HyperV6]

When installing aftermarket speakers what is a good way to hook them up? I don't want to cut any of the factory wiring. Can I make some little jumper bundles - two male spade connector (to factory wiring plug) - wires - to two female spade connectors (to new speaker)? Or two male spade connector (to factory wiring plug) - wires - solder the wire the new speaker? Any suggestions would be appreicate.

How do you tell which wire in the factory plug is + or - ? I just want to make sure I hook the speakers up correctly.

Thanks, Craig

 

[garyk1970]

how ever you want to tap in is ok, heres a link to the color codes.

http://www.turbobuick.com/forums/car-audio/169795-factory-wiring.html?highlight=concert+sound+plug

5th post is colors, cs11 is the same colors.

 

[HyperV6]

Thanks Gary. With an audio signal a few good splices isn't going to mess up the signal too much and loose sound quality? Is that correct?

I know very little to nothing about sound systems.

Thanks again, Craig

 

[salvageV6]

For a good connection you may want to detach the wiring from the stock speakers and use the factory connector. Or source the proper mating connectors from a junkyard speaker pair or parts counter.

Or else trim a ring of insulation behind the factory connector and solder a jumper wire to the new speakers. Tape up the factory unused connector at that point.

Both will work better and be more secure than simple spade lugs into the existing connector.

However if you do that make sure they are taped up good and perhaps a cable tie or two putting some force on the spades into the factory connector to maintain contact.

Lots of ways to do it for decent power transfer.

 

[unix_punk]

If you're concerned with sound quality you should ditch the stock wiring altogether IMO... You'd be surprised the difference in running a slightly bigger quality wire compared to the stock wires. I just did wiring and 6x9's, wasn't hard to run the wire at all. pulled up the bottom of the back seat and popped a hole into the truck and ran the wire under the metal trim at the door frame up to the front on the pass side. are you doing a head unit as well?

 

[garyk1970]

Thanks Gary. With an audio signal a few good splices isn't going to mess up the signal too much and loose sound quality? Is that correct?

I know very little to nothing about sound systems.

Thanks again, Craig

unless youre going to run a large amp on highs,oem wire is ok. some solid conections are not going to affect sound q .when you make a crimp/connection,pull on connector slightly to see if connector stays,this will tell if connection is solid.you dont have to solder for a good connection also,there is a right and wrong way to crimp. ill look for the link to give more info.

 

[salvageV6]

The factory wiring works okay up to about 100 watts RMS per speaker.

Obviously if you have amp.s. and speakers in the trunk it's very easy and prudent to rewire with much larger gauge wiring for subs. and other high power applications.

 

[HyperV6]

I'm using the factory / stock head unit. I just wanted to get some new / better speakers since the originals are 20 years old. I just want to hook up the new speakers without cutting the original wiring.

I think I read somewhere the original speakers are 2 ohms. I was looking at some replacements Memphis 3.5" fronts and 4X10 rears but they are 4 ohms. Does the difference in ohms matter with the stock head unit or should I just find some 2 ohm speakers?

Thanks again for the help, Craig

 

[salvageV6]

Rears are 10 ohms.

Dash tweeters are 10 ohms.

Door speakers are 4 ohms.

Delco factory speakers.

I have 4 ohms in my GN for replacements and it's been okay, then again I don't care much if the factory radio blows (due to the increased amplifier load) because it blows from the factory to begin with.