Installing the Hurst Line Loc, could use a helping hand...

[WSLN 6]

What fittings will I require for this install?(I didn't get the install kit as my friend works at a brake shop)
If anyone can give me a list of all the adapters I will need to install the line loc, it would be appreciated.
I would like to do it as per NHRA rules so I don't have to install it twice.
Thanks!!!!!!

 

[John Larkin]

A couple of 90 degree 1/8 NPT reverse flare fittings, a reverse flare brass T, a 1/8 NPT plug and two pieces of brake line will get you in business. Check out gnttype. There is a good picture on there about doing it the NHRA way (it's the bottom diagram). I mounted mine right on the proportioning valve bracket with two heavy duty 13mm headed screws. Mock up your brake line bends with some coat hanger and then bend them to fit. The left lower control arm bracket provides some shielding to alleviate any fears of it being torn off due to road debris. Good luck!

 

[UNGN]

Supposedly the NHRA says it should be after the combination valve. Well, if its after the combination valve, the NHRA won't know you have a line lock anyway, so even that was good enough for me.

The fittings you need to install it at the combination valve is:

2 complete lines with inverted flare males, (6 - 10 inches long) (standard brake line size)

1 inverted flair "Tee" fitting (standard brake line size)

1 male plug for combination valve standard brake line, an as many as required to plug any extra ports in the line lock body.

2 Inverted flare female to npt male fittings (to mate the lines to the Line lock body)

Undo the front two brake lines from the combination valve. Slighty bend one and thread them into the inverted flair "Tee". Run a line for the "Tee" to the outlet of Line Lock. Run the other line from the inlet of the line lock to the combination valve. Plug the remaining port on the combination valve.

Mount the line lock to the shifter bracket near the combination valve. Bleed the brakes, run a wire to ground and run the power wire through the shifter boot into the console, to the switch, light and fuse box.

and you are done.

 

[TurboD1987]

Just where are you installing the line lock? I know mine may not be NHRA legal but if you need any help installing it off the master cyl. let me know. I have had mine on for many years with no problems! Nice thing is no cutting of the original lines.
Dave
Here is a pic of it
http://www.geocities.com/turbod1987/pics/page20.html

 

[WSLN 6]

Wow, thanks for the replies guys!
Hmmm.....now where should I mount it......... Under the hood sure looks easy enough, but will it be legal for drag racing? Oh, by the way, i have a vacuum brake setup, not the powermaster, so does this affect which line I connect the line loc to?

 

[J Banning]

Myself and several friends have our line locks (Hurst Roll Controll) mounted just like TurboD1987. As far as I know, the tech inspectors have never said anything.

-Banning.

 

[Gbodyolds]

TurboD1987 Just where are you installing the line lock? I know mine may not be NHRA legal but if you need any help installing it off the master cyl. let me know. I have had mine on for many years with no problems! Nice thing is no cutting of the original lines.

does installing it this way cause the brake light to come on ? everything i read including the instructions included with it state to install it after the prop. valve

 

[8AV8]

line lock ?

I installed mine on the fender well under the MC using the Hurst install kit. It had everything I needed. Works fine with vacuum brakes (line lock doesn't know the difference).

 

[salvageV6]

To answer your question the brake light does come on for about 5 seconds while you are using it to do a burnout.

Goes right out when staging.

Installing it up top is relatively painless. Not so sure it would be down below.

Here's another pic. of mine on the GN. Hurst Roll Control, mounted on the raised boss near the windshield washer tank. Other mounting end has a spacer on it to raise it to the same level on the fenderwell.

http://a3.cpimg.com/image/7F/EB/41893503-4017-02000180-.jpg

 

[UNGN]

Installing it up top is relatively painless. Not so sure it would be down below.

http://a3.cpimg.com/image/7F/EB/41893503-4017-02000180-.jpg

If you had to cut and reflare that brake line in the picture, mounting in near the combination valve is less painless than the picture shown.

You make or buy two new lines and put only VERY slight bends in the factory lines, so you can put your car back to stock in minutes. No screw holes drilled into those irreplaceable inner fender panels, either.

 

[pacecarta]

heres a pic of mine after the prop valve using the hurst install kit from summit and a little bending

 

[salvageV6]

Just getting the lines off the factory combo. valve and working under the car isn't worth the extra work especially when you twist them off after 18 years.

There goes your factory appearance.

Reflaring one new short line is easy any local service garage could do it for you, cheap maybe even free if you have other work done there.

Never paid much attention to those irreplaceable plastic inner fenderwells.

Guess I better stop drilling holes in them.