Instructions for changing timing chain

[wb's87]

I have been searching for a very long time on here. I am hopefully trying to find step by step instructions on how to change the stock timing chain on my GN. Or if someone out there would be kind enough to walk me through it.

Thanks!

 

[blackazz]

http://www.gnttype.org/techarea/engine/tchain.html

 

[wb's87]

http://www.gnttype.org/techarea/engine/tchain.html

Thanks so much. I didn't look on that sight. They make it sound easy. My main worries are the oil pump and cam sensor. Do I have to prime the oil pump? Should I use any gasket sealer on the timing cover? Do I just put the cam sensor together asame as it comes out?gasket?

 

[blackazz]

Yes on the prime.,Or you can pre fill the lines.
Cam isn't bad I took a couple phone pics when I did mine.so I'd remember how it was when it came off. but straight forward.

 

[wb's87]

Sounds good. So I would remove the oil lines going to oil cooler and fill them?

 

[GNONYX]

You can get most of the parts from NAPA for a reasonable price:

New tensioner – NAPA http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/CatalogItemDetail.aspx?R=NTP95158_0191974675
$4.84

Updated cam button NAPA http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/CatalogItemDetail.aspx?R=NTP95189_019197467
$15.14

Front cover gasket set – NAPA http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/Result.aspx?Ntt=tcs45930&Ntk=Keyword&Nty=1&N=599001+101987+50008+2
$9.99
You might not have to get another oil pan gasket if your is rubber made, just make sure it's clean on both ends

http://www.taperformance.com/proddetail.asp?prod=TA_V1522B
Called them for verification of timing chain replacement

Others may chime in but I used red loc-tite on the Cam bolts

First and most important disconnect the orange wire behind the battery, and you must have an oil pressure gauge in order to make sure you do built up oil pressure before you reconnect the orange wire for start up.

I didn't pack the oil pump with Vaseline as most do
I first filled the oil filter as much as I can and then put 3 quarts oil in oil pan , then I remove the lower oil cooler from the radiator taped it against some pipe so the oil cooler is vertical position. Then place a small funnel inside the oil cooler hose, you will need a Chevy oil pump prime tool and place it inside the Cam Sensor hole; make sure the tool slot is fitted on the oil pump shaft. DO NOT start the engine, if your oil pressure gauge is electric then just turn the key to the "ON POSITION" , and have someone inside the car telling you that you have oil pressure. Attach the cordless drill machine to prime tool and run it at CCW position, at the same time fill the oil cooler hose with about 1-1/2-2 quarts of motor oil, or until you have oil pressure present. Once you have oil pressure, re-install the oil cooler hose back, set the cordless drill machine to CW until the other person inside the car tells you that you oil pressure on the gauge. Remove prime tool rotate crank shaft to new marking of 25* after TDC install the Cam Sensor as per Casper's Instruction.

http://www.casperselectronics.com/store2/product_info.php?cPath=22&products_id=653

And it you don't have a Casper Cam Sensor Tool then you use this read up.
http://www.vortexbuicks-etc.com/cam_sensor.htm

If for any reason you feel uncertain or have some doubts, ask many questions before proceeding to something you don't know of and then regrets doing it.
Take your time have patience, and the most important of doing this replacement is make sure you have oil pressure before starting engine!!!!

 

[wb's87]

Wow. That is a lot of good info. Thank you!

 

[GNONYX]

Here is some more for you to think of:
Everyone has their own version of the oil pan gasket. I myself installed a rubber/fiberglass oil pan gasket and no leak.
As far not dropping the pan, that's one thing you might not have a choice. The oil pan cover has to drop down in order for the timing cover to slide onto both dowel pins and then you can bolt the oil pan with gasket up against the timing cover.

Also There are four long bolts that goes through the water jacket engine block, and I used Pertmatex Thread Sealant with PTFE (Item #80632).

 

[Jay J]

Here is some more for you to think of:
Everyone has their own version of the oil pan gasket. I myself installed a rubber/fiberglass oil pan gasket and no leak.
As far not dropping the pan, that's one thing you might not have a choice. The oil pan cover has to drop down in order for the timing cover to slide onto both dowel pins and then you can bolt the oil pan with gasket up against the timing cover.

Also There are four long bolts that goes through the water jacket engine block, and I used Pertmatex Thread Sealant with PTFE (Item #80632).

Good advice here--If you do not drop the pan, it is very likely you will have an oil leak...

 

[wb's87]

I intend to replace front and rear main seals and I have a new oil pan gasket. I bought the stock style timing set from TA Performance as well as all the gaskets and roller cam button.

Thanks for all the info. It's just what I was hoping for.

 

[GNONYX]

Oh Boy, Rear End Seal, You're glutton for punishment
I removed the balancer bolt with a 3/4" De Walt cordless Impact Driver, and a 1 1/8" socket from Advance Auto.
You might want to replace the Oil Pickup Tube being that they're cheap replacement.
You can use the impact driver to snug the balancer bolt back on, but I would use a torque wrench to tighten the bolt to 220 ft lbs.

Clamp vise grips onto the flexplate and it will wedge up against the block and stop the crankshaft from rotating, as you are tightening the bolt.
Also use red loc-tite on the cam bolts and on the Oil Pick Up Tube bolts, and I used it on the balancer bolt as well.
Same may said don't need to, but I did as my security satisfaction.

Here are some site on how to replace the rear end seal, but keep in mind the pictures showing is for a TTA and not an GN, and you don't have to lift the motor in order to remove the oil pan cover. Most of the info is for a TTA, but it gives you some ideas.

http://www.gnttype.org/techarea/engine/rearmain.html
http://home.comcast.net/~tta1456/rearmain.htm

This is some info to start your engine journey, and Definitely ask questions when in doubt

 

[turbo nasty]

Highly recommend you go through the oil pump as well.

 

[earlbrown]

^what he said.


It'd be dumb to have the cover off and not inspect it and do some free flow mods.