You can type here any text you want

is M10 too big?

Welcome!

By registering with us, you'll be able to discuss, share and private message with other members of our community.

SignUp Now!

EclipseTurbo

New Member
Joined
Jan 15, 2003
Messages
102
I am almost ready to put my system together and I am not sure which jet to use, it's thsoe jets from mcmaster carr.

I have these sizes, M5, M10, M15

I guess many factors are changing at once and I need some opinions.

The pump is shurflo powered straight without pressure switch, estimated pressure should be around 150 PSI.

I have been using aquamist nozzles, the 0.8mm and 100% water and it doesn't bog even activate at 6 PSI. Well doesn't help knock alot too so clearly I need bigger jet.

The M10 seems to be alot bigger than the aquamist (unfortunately rated in GPH at different PSIs so hard to compare), but I am also now only going to be running 100% denatured or methanol. I know you can inject more alcohol volume, so I bigger should be OK at this point.

What size jets are you guys using on your cars? From the apperance M5 still look about the same as aquamist size which is not enough.

My engine is 2.0L which will not be able to take as much liquid as the Buicks.
 
An m10 with 300 PSi will drown your motor. i wouldnt recommend bypassing the pump..its a sure fire way to see what your weakest pressure link is. No reason to run that kind of pressure. it will kill your pump, cuase a leak, or blow a hose.

If you want additional pressure, crank down on the screw on top of the pump, The pulsing wont affect your performance, but running it at WOT pressure like that, it wil be a problem sooner or latter.

Small motor like yours, the M5 with 100-125 PSI should be rite..if no them the M10 with 60-70 PSI. but not 300 PSI :eek:

Make or buy an electronic controller you can dial in the pressure, it makes life so much easier.

Hth..

Julio
 
Where did you get the 300 PSI figure from? I'm sure it is more like 150 PSI, but the PSI will depend on the nozzle size. Bigger nozzle lower outlet pressure. Maybe you measured the output with a gauge?

The reason I'm not using the switch is that I'll be pulsing the pump power with a solid state relay, so I do not want two pulsating mechanisms in the system.
 
The 300 PSI is what has been gotten using an M15 with the switched bypassed and 12 volts applied to the pump. Actually if you search, there are posts of selenoids blowing up due to pressure.

The pump has a lot of mass and tracking pressure may be an issue when done the way you want to do it. Also tracking off of injectors has the issue that its not being boost referenced. Remember as boost rises so does fuel pressure. but the injectors dont open up in a linear fashion in relation to boost. If you had a return system and were able to control the mist nozzle like an injector.. then again..your in uncharted water.

Get your pump, hook a pressure guage "t" into it, and run some readings simulating what your going to do by applying the signal you say off the injectors. See what your trying to accomplish is having the pump increase its output as your injectors duty cycle increases. Question is how you make up for the non-referenced fueling. And are able to vary the amount of misted fluid into the motor to correllate with IDC. And an injector works differently than a motor. One is a selenoid, the other is an armature.

See if you set your pump to 150 PSI via the pressure screw on the top, then the maximum it can produce in pressure is 150 PSI. If you bypass the pressure limiter on top of the pump..it can produce 300 PSI if power is applied and held. this is not an EFI pump..it will make some serious power if attempted. So pulsing the pump with its switch at 150 PSI is not an issue, cuase if you do it correctly, it will never see that pressure.

Again..dont bypass the safety on the pump..


Julio
 
I have been running it like this for a while now though. At full 12V. Single switch setup. The spray pattern is very nice and actually reduces my knock. I must make it clear I am not using a solenoid with this, so I don't apply power and hold pressure againsts the solenoid door anymore. The only thing is the increased amps requirement which I use a 10 gauge 30 amp fused wire.

I'm just adding the duty control now, which will actually reduce the amount of liquid pumped.

I agree with you on the mass of the motor, will just have to see about that one. I can adjust the single "secondary" injector signal independent of the primary injectors, this would let me have some trimming control of the pumping over the RPMs, if just straight tracking is not working exactly right.

I did not come up with all these myself. Derek (AnArKey) sells a kit like that, but I already have most of the parts so I decided to make my own system that works similar to his. He has many happy customers too.
 
Originally posted by EclipseTurbo
The only thing is the increased amps requirement which I use a 10 gauge 30 amp fused wire.

This is exactly what i'm talking about. If you look your pump is rated at 7 amps. One issue is running it at 10 amps..or 12 amps..possibly 14 for a short period, but anything higher than that..your asking for trouble. There is no reason to fuse a 7 amp pump with a 30 amp fuse. Unless it is your intent to damage it.

Your spraying a flammable liquid at pressures not designed to be done at. Only shureflow pump failures I know off are run just like this...

I dont mean to incite trouble, just want you to be happy with your system..and can only relay information thats been posted on this board. Bring the pressure down and use a bigger nozzle..you setup will live a way longer happier life.
 
Back
Top