Is my Power Master pump Motor shot?

[BUICKGNX]

Just curious to see if anyone can tell me if my pump motor is a gonner. When the pressure switch is connected and the connector for the relay (pump/ motor) is plugged in, the motor makes a click sound as if two terminals are in contact. The relay looks to be good but the motor/pump may be shot causing the brake pedal to be very hard, brake light coming on and staying on. Th e fuses are all ok and not popped. The pressure switch has been changed, the accumulator has been changed. The only thing that i can see wrong is the pump motor. I hear a click but does not run. I may have burned it when i was charging the battery of the gn. As i was charging, the motor came on for a lenghty period of time. There is a guy that i found that sells original new pump motors for 87 gn's. I think its at turbocars.tripod.com. Has anyone dealt with this guy. He states that they are NEW and are sold to GM as well. They have the same part # and are the original ones. He is selling them for $149.95 us. Shipping to Canada is extra. I am looking for an original pump motor for a mint original gn show car.
Please kindly give me some feedback.

Thank you

Mike

 

[MSDGN]

If the pump/motor ran continuously for any length of time it's most likely toast...it is designed for short run/high pressure operation...have done business with Hank many times...he is the only one I know of that sells actual brand new pieces...I believe he purchased all the tooling...etc for making the pump/motors
and I have bought several pump/motors from him and never had any problems...you have already replaced the accumulator and switch...if you plan on buying a new motor I would go ahead and rebuild the MC...it may have an internal leak which can cause the motor to run longer than it should or all the time...get the GM rebuild kit...very easy to do...then you will basically have a new PM unit...

 

[BUICKGNX]

Thanks for the reply. Just curious about what the kit consists of?
Does it include the motor? I probably will change the motor only because the gn only has 30,000 miles on it. Does Hank make them or rebuilds them?

Thank you kindly

mike

 

[Matt_S]

essentially you will always have a problem, the power master unit is not that reliable, and when it will cost you $150 just for the pump, I would suggest going with a vacuum or hydroboost unit, not so much the vacuum unit, because the electric vacuum pump was put on there because the engine does not put out that much vacuum because of the turbo. So your best bet, speaking from a the stance of being from a brake shop, and knowing what will actually work and stop your car, I would say get a hydroboost conversion. The hydroboost works off the power steering pump, so it requires no vacuum, so you will not ever need to worry about replacing that electric pump (cuz it will wear out again, as is their nature) it will also give you 3 times the stopping power. if you have any questions about this give us a call down here at Power Brake Service, our number is (800) 504 - 1060

 

[77tech9]

Word of warning, i got a new powermaster from autozone 3 times before it was a good one. And they said I coudlnt' get a new one even though it was a "lifetime warrenty".

If it goes bad again I think vac would be much nicer, but I do like the PowerMaster also.

 

[MSDGN]

The GM rebuild kit consists of some new O-rings...new power piston...some seals...etc...not really much to it but worthwhile to do...if you put a new motor on it and it fails due to an internal MC leak you'll be kicking yourself for not rebuilding the MC when you had the chance...the kit is only around $40...as for the motors that Hank sells as I stated previously they are brand new units which he manufactures...there are NO rebuilt pump/motors...as for the reliability of the PM system I refuse to get into a pissing contest about it...this subject has been debated many many times...there are many using the PM with zero problems excluding the maintenance such as having to replace the accumulator periodically...and there are many that have had bad experiences...I use the PM on both my cars and never had a failure...the main thing I do to prevent it is when the light comes on I don't drive the car until it's fixed...I also listen to the motor periodically to make sure it's not making any strange sounds... I've seen many continue to drive the car even though the light keeps coming on...then they wonder why they had no brakes at the worst time...it's all a matter of choice...if you don't feel comfortable with the PM system...then don't use it...

 

[BUICKGNX]

Scott,
I want to thank you for your honesty and advice in regards to my situation. I will order from Hank after i finish writing this thread. I wanted to ask you. When i change the motor, do i need to drain all of the brake fluid if i decide to change just the motor?
Once its all plugged in with the new pump motor and turn on the key, will the brake light go out? What are the procedures in changing the motor? Does hank warranty the motors only if the switch and accumulator have been changed? I do have the receipts. If the pump motor is burned out, would it necessary cause the fuses to burn as well? My fuses are all ok.

Please respond when you have a moment

Thank You kindly

Michael

 

[MSDGN]

Not sure if you're thinking about just changing the pump/motor but I will stress this a little more...as long as you're going that far it would be a good idea to rebuild the MC unless you are positive that the MC wasn't the cause of the motor burning out...you have to remove the PM unit to change the motor anyways...I suppose it has been done without removing the unit but I wouldn't do it that way...for one it would be messy...brake fluid everywhere plus it's tight around there to try and use any wrenches...at the very least suck all the fluid out of the reservoir and clean it up...if the fluid hasn't been changed in awhile it will be nasty and you don't want old fluid going through the new motor...if you remove the entire unit it's easier to work on plus you can get all the old fluid out and clean it up better...removal/replacing is pretty straight forward...3 nuts that hold it to the brackets...one hose from the reservoir...one hose from motor to MC...to get that hose though you need to remove it from the MC first then unscrew it from the motor...you don't have to bleed the entire system but you will have to bleed the MC if you rebuild it...Hank does warranty the motors if you have proof of purchase for a new switch...as for the light going out it should if the motor was the problem...I rebuilt a PM unit though once and the light came back on...I found out it was the proportioning valve...it was sticking so I replaced it with the upgraded brass unit and no more light...if you haven't flushed the brake system in a long time you'd be surprised how nasty the brake fluid gets after a few years...you probably want to do that also...I use a MightyVac and flush mine every year or at least every other year...

 

[BUICKGNX]

Scott,
Thanks for teh reply. How do i change the proportioning valve. Please let me know

Thank you kindly

Michael

 

[MSDGN]

Follow the lines from the MC down to the frame just behind front drivers side wheel...you'll see it there...it has all the brake lines connected to it...if you plan on changing it out do it while you're
doing the PM unit...lot less messy...but if you do change it you definitely have to bleed the entire system...

 

[BUICKGNX]

Thank You kindly. I will keep you posted

 

[BUICKGNX]

Scott,
Will a defected proportioning valve cause the pump motor to not work?
Please let me know

Thank you kindly

Michael

 

[MSDGN]

Highly doubt it...the thing that kills a PM pump/motor most often is one of the components going bad causing the pump to run more than it was designed to do such as an internal leak in the MC...bad switch...bad accumulator...the pump has to run more often to keep up with the pressure leakage and it eventually burns out...that's why it's so important to find the problem when the light first comes on and fix it...usage/age is also a factor...the motor just wears out...the motor as I stated before was designed to operate at short intervals under very high pressure.

 

[Matt_S]

hey

check out my posting in the parts for sale board, it answers what is up. it is titled Hydroboost brake conversion, read that and you will know exactly what you need to do to so that you can stop your car.