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l3lue

Member
Joined
Jun 19, 2005
Messages
216
Got a stock GN just got it idles rough and doesn't run great especially when cold think it's been sitting for awhile. Here is a list of what i'm planning to do to try to clear it up

Put in Fresh 93 gas
Install Scanmaster
Install Ls1 MAF w/ Translator
Plugs
Wires

Is there anything else I need to look for or will this most likely clear it up?
 
Post your Scanmaster idle numbers with the engine fully warmed up. It may need the minimum air rate and TPS adjusted to clean up the idle. Also what chip is in the ECM?
 
I plan on ordering a scanmaster and installing it, I got the car home 3AM last night after a long trip just noticed it runs rough. What plugs and wires should I get to start off? Also looks like stock MAF, is there any difference in the LT1 vs LS1 or either should work with a translator?
 
He doesn't need a power logger for a stock engine car that he is just trying to get running right.

Agreed, for someone just starting out, Scanmaster is the best most obvious first step.
 
Read this and do everything on this list first:

http://www.gnttype.org/maint/basics.html

I would also hold off on getting a translator and MAF until you see how the car is running. Nothing says you have to replace the stock MAF. A translator and new MAF is a fairly expensive upgrade. Yoy need to make sure the car is running right before throwing parts at it.

Also if you have an android device you may want to consider the scan tool made by
Www.1320electronics.com
It does all that the Scanmaster does and more. Alot less expensive too!
 
Got a stock GN just got it idles rough and doesn't run great especially when cold think it's been sitting for awhile. Here is a list of what i'm planning to do to try to clear it up

Put in Fresh 93 gas
Install Scanmaster
Install Ls1 MAF w/ Translator
Plugs
Wires

Is there anything else I need to look for or will this most likely clear it up?

I would add these to your list.

Denso o2 sensor part # 2341001 Rockauto.com has the best price or you can order it at Autozone but will cost more.

Coolant temperature sensor.
 
Do not start throwing parts at it to get it to run right. Learn from those that have paved the way with experience. It is almost crazy to start adding $$ parts to your car to get it to run right without knowing for sure that it needs it.
 
Do not start throwing parts at it to get it to run right. Learn from those that have paved the way with experience. It is almost crazy to start adding $$ parts to your car to get it to run right without knowing for sure that it needs it.
That is true that you for pointing that out, I have the 1320 scanner ordered and in route. Will post numbers once I have it set up
 
Yea if I see a scanmaster pop up on the for sale forum i'm going to grab it but for now i've been told the other one should at least get me the numbers I need
 
A good place to start is replacing all the vacuum lines and closely inspecting the intake hose for holes if it is still there. Check the egr valve for vacuum leaks too. You can do that stuff while waiting for you scsnner.
 
A good place to start is replacing all the vacuum lines and closely inspecting the intake hose for holes if it is still there. Check the egr valve for vacuum leaks too. You can do that stuff while waiting for you scsnner.

From my experience, this is one of the most often overlooked areas with these cars that produce gremlins that are hard to detect. With my latest issue I was dealing with I found 4 cracked vacuum lines. I spent the time and money and replaced them all.
 
From my experience, this is one of the most often overlooked areas with these cars that produce gremlins that are hard to detect. With my latest issue I was dealing with I found 4 cracked vacuum lines. I spent the time and money and replaced them all.
Lifetime warranty wires work fine on stocker,plugs, clean throttle body and IAC passage, check the basics like tps etc. Put a gallon of Xylene in the tank and fill it up with fresh gas. Check Rock Auto as they often have closeouts on stuff like plugs/wires/sensors, etc.
 
The thing about a car new to you is you have no idea what parts you are dealing with. You can ohm the plug wires; if they are zero or very close, no problem. But consumables like plugs, O2 sensor, PCV valve, air filter and such - just replace them so you know. You can take your module and coilpack to Autozone and have it tested. They have a machine and test for free; just go when store traffic is light. It may not be certified by NASA but if it shows good I would believe it. Change ALL the fluids, rear diff too, and filters. Then you have a good place to start. Whoever said vacuum lines is dead on; those are usually dry rotted and you'll chase problems needlessly otherwise. Everything I listed will run you under $100 total if you're a good shopper.
 
It's really lean; 150 BLMs is the reason. They should ideally be close to the INT of 128. I bet your plugs are snow white.
 
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