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turbov6joe

Signal 1 J-12
Joined
May 22, 2002
Messages
2,220
I finally got the TTA running today after a rather long/drawn out heads & cam swap. Only having a few hours every weekend kinda drew the project out longer than I would have liked, but she's running now....like a top none the less. The motor kinda took a while to start which I'm not sure if that was due to the 15º ambient temps, or maybe the fuel rail and injectors needed to build up pressure??? It finally fired after a bit of cranking and came to a nice purr once the 30w warmed up and the cam sensor quit rattling due to the HIGH oil pressure. For once there were no leaks or anything missed on the prefiring once over. I also removed the Stagerite T brake and modified the govenor for some more RPM. Now I need to road test it to see if the cam and heads were worth loosing most of the skin on my hands/knuckles over the last 2 weeks:) I must say I was impressed to see that my vacume at warm idle only dropped from 17 to 15....
Now I can't wait for some warmer weather (this comming Thursday 55º) to go and play!
 
Awesome, I'm glad to hear you're happy. A lot to look forward to, huh?

lee
 
I better bust into the 10's before you do...

Congrats on Finally getting it back together ;)
 
Actually Julio I'm gunning for your benchmarks as our cars are pretty close on the combos....if my memory serves me right, the only difference is you have a liquid IC and I'm running a stocker with a big neck mod, am I correct? Right now I have a TE45a, MSD 50's, 212-212, ported heads with stock sized valves, THDP, your alky kit, and a Walbro 340....all else are OEM parts with OEM sizes. I forgot, I run a Magnaflow crossflow muffler.
 
No I have a small front mount. air to air.

Your turbo may be a bit larger than mine. TE67 vs the TE45a.. close.. I have a dynomax muffler on mine.

Start at low boost... get it running at 18-20 PSI first knock free..then start to squeeze. The car better run mid 11's at 20 PSI.

Also get some miles and heat cycle the gaskets.

Looking forward to lining them up at BG this year.
 
That's right, you just got the FMIC last year before BG....I kinda wonder how much of an improvement that FMIC is based off of where it is in the nose. If nothing else it's a more efficient heat exchanger and flows better.

The turbos are real close, I think the wheel sizes are within a mm of one another???

The Dyno max muffler is also very good and sounds great as well. Do you make your passes through the full exhaust? I have a dump that I have never used....maybe I ought to try it sometime and see what happens!

My pop bought me one of RJC's bleeders for Christmas, I have it set pretty far out so the boost SHOULD start real low at first. I also have the WG rod just about touching the flapper post...man I want to make sure it doesn't over boost the first time out!

Heat cycles are definately what selas the gaskets...no doubt about that. I just wonder how many cycles it takes to glue them down??? The first time I changed the OE gaskets I was stunned when the heads lifted right off! I guess even 12k miles wasn't enough heat cycles to glue them down. I remember when I blew my first set og HG's on my GN. The heads had been on there for ~56k miles and I had to about beat the heads off with a rubber mallet to get them to break free. Then I spent hours scraping the gasket material off both the heads and block. Makes me wonder if GM didn't use some kind of a glue when they built those motors at the factory??? I'm taking the car out this week for some miles, then changing the oil and detailing it for the World of Wheels Expo in KC. SInce I've owned the car I wanted to show it but always had something going on that kept me from entering it. This year most of all the BIG projects are done and it's going to be there for sure. We have a group of guys (all TR's) that show their cars in a section that are going to let me put mine in there with theirs....Fast Eddy Brewer will be there with his T along with my pop's GN. I'll take lots of pics and send them down.

As for lining them up in BG.....OK, I'm always about a good race:) If I can't get my car to MPH like yours in the 1/8, I don't have a chance unless I catch you sleeping on the lights....not likely;) Wouldn't it be something if we both knocked off our first 10 second pass in a TTA on that run! Wierder things have happened to me I can assure you that. We're looking for my pop's car to run some solid 10 second passes this year on alky/pump. We have a lot of tuning to do before BG! I'm going to be running the new MT Drag Radials this year. Have you heard any feedback about them good or bad? Ed's boss just bought a pair and Ed said they are REALLY SOFT.....now that I don't have a T brake anymore to kill the tires, the radials should hook pretty good on a prepped track. When I switched from Nitto DR's to MT Street ET's I dropped a solid 2-3 mph on the big end...prolly due to nothing more than rolling resistance. Going from a 32 psi radial to 12 psi bias ply didn't help things I'm sure. If I can trap 125 mph I'll be VERY happy....it went 122 mph the last race of the season. I'll keep ya posted.
 
Probably after a hudred miles and lots of idling/cooling down..you'd be good to go.

I could be wrong tho, at Reynolds we changed my drivers side, and went raced the car. Now I cant blow the gasket. What can I say. :D

Ever fix the exhuast tips? :p

I always run mine with the cutout open at the track. Its more of a consistency thing. I havent run it closed in quite some time. Dont know what it will run closed up on the OEM exhuast.

A little care package(envelope) went out.. some top secret goodies are inside.

Keep an eye on the oil..

Julio
 
The exhaust tips were taken care of as soon as we got back from BG last year....look 100% original now!

I'll be looking for the envelope.

Ya know, I would like to think there is some kind of science to the keeping the HG's alive by way of heat cycling etc....but we both know that the 8 bolt heads are really the reason why they're not able to stay in good health for very long when we run high boost. The only cars I've ever seen that have good HG's with any kind of longevity are the ones that have 100,000,000 miles on them...the factory seal. I would ship my motor to China if I could find someone that had a torquing machine that would torque all the head bolts down at the same rate at the same time...like they did at the factory way back when. Hell, if I had 8 arms and 8 torque wrenchs I'd torque them that way. That would be better then doing them one at a time like we do now!

One of my HG's was showing signs of lifting (#4) but was not too terribly bad just yet. I imagine that one bad knock event might have pushed it over the edge. My goad this year with the cam and heads is to keep the max boost no higher than 25 psi. IMO that is right about as high of a psi the ARP's can keep up with.
 
The exhaust tips were taken care of as soon as we got back from BG last year....look 100% original now!

I'll be looking for the envelope.

Ya know, I would like to think there is some kind of science to the keeping the HG's alive by way of heat cycling etc....but we both know that the 8 bolt heads are really the reason why they're not able to stay in good health for very long when we run high boost. The only cars I've ever seen that have good HG's with any kind of longevity are the ones that have 100,000,000 miles on them...the factory seal. I would ship my motor to China if I could find someone that had a torquing machine that would torque all the head bolts down at the same rate at the same time...like they did at the factory way back when. Hell, if I had 8 arms and 8 torque wrenchs I'd torque them that way. That would be better then doing them one at a time like we do now!

One of my HG's was showing signs of lifting (#4) but was not too terribly bad just yet. I imagine that one bad knock event might have pushed it over the edge. My goad this year with the cam and heads is to keep the max boost no higher than 25 psi. IMO that is right about as high of a psi the ARP's can keep up with.
 
25 PSI on Felpro's no problem..

I've been squeezing em pretty good.. no issues. Yet :D
 
I got the TTA out on the road yesterday for some shakedown runs....got some good and bad results. The bad is my oil pan gasket leaks like a siv. Under boost the oil would blow out of the pan and on to the crossover causing a smoke cloud behind the car. At first I thought it was the turbo's oil seal, but then noticed that the smoke was only at the higher boost levels. I looked under the car and the oil was dang near running out of the pan:( I knew the gasket might give me problems and it did! Now I have to finger out how to stop the leaking or replace the gasket with the motor in place....royal PITA!! The good news is the car runs like a beat dog:) I was feathering the throttle to about 10 psi for a few passes then actually rolled into it to see where the boost would stop. At 18.5 psi it maxed out and the car was pulling like a monster at this low of boost level!! The numbers on the SM looked great and the motor sounded solid. I did notice the exhaust tone at WOT was different....don't know if this is a result of the ported heads or not??? I think the 2-3 flair is fixed as well, but couldn't really tell for sure because the tires were spinning so violently it was all I could do to keep her between the lines....one gear change bled right into the next.
 
Yep..gera changes happen really fast the faster you get.. You should be running easy mid-high 11's at 18 PSI.

Sounds are way over rated :)

Cork oil pan gasket ;)
 
BTW, I have shirt's ready for BG this year..

"Beat By Razor"

:eek:


:D
 
DANG...I'm not feeling any love from ya Julio. Wouldn't ya know it, the guy lives thousands of miles from me and he's breaking my balls....my pop will pay dearly for this one:)! Now don't go ahead and let your head get TOO big, ya might slow your car down with the extra weight;)

Where can you find cork pan gaskets these days? I thought they went out with points and dwell meters.
 
Three companies make them that i'm aware off, ROL, Detroit Gasket, and Cometic. The cometic gasket is the cats meow... but also high dollar like 25 bucks.

Hey the beatings shall continue till the morale improves...

I can get some "Beat By Joe Sr." shirts made as well.. guess you'll be wearing one of those as well :D
 
MAYBE beat by you...but not my pop this year my friend;)
For what my pop has on the launch...I'll have on the big end....I'll reel him in like a big black fish.

I'll give Cometic a call. Do you know if it's possible to change that gasket without jacking the motor up off the mounts? I'd like to drop the pan as far as it will go and fish the gasket in and around.
 
Good question, dont know. Let us know what ya find.

Probably can.
 
Looks like I really ate my words when I initially posted that the motor was up and running with no leaks. After 4 hours last night I finally got the oil pan gasket changed and the motor running again. Seems the reason for my massive leak was a torn oil pan gasket that was only held together by just the edge of the lip...no wonder the oil was draining out! Just for future reference, it's nearly impossible to change the gasket unless you jack the motor up off the mounts and remove the crossover. If you jack the motor up to just short of comming off the mount tabs, you can easily put a new gasket on without removing the pan itself. There is enough room with the motor up to slide the gasket in between the crossmenber and up and over the pan lip. There is also enough room to clean the block and pan rail to ensure a dry seal. The job was a real PITA doing it by myself...especially the motor mount bolts....but it's done. Now I think either the PS header or crossover is leaking....I heard it last night when I fired it up:(
 
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