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JULIO, I SENT A GUY TO YOU & HE CAME OVER W/ THIS CRAP........

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Guess you need to give better directions so they dont get lost next time you send em somewhere :wink:

Ohh we're not starting drama on this board rite Grumpy :eek: :D
 
whats wrong with the kit ive got a be cool kit and it works just fine and its the samething boost comes on alky gets sprayed boost gos off alky stops spraying to simple and it cost me 150.00
 
thanks phil i thought it was good all the other kits i looked at seemed to difficult for me
 
CHANCE said:
whats wrong with the kit ive got a be cool kit and it works just fine and its the samething boost comes on alky gets sprayed boost gos off alky stops spraying to simple and it cost me 150.00
Your sig says "87 WE-4 Regal"...........
Why did you pay the extra money for that when you can have a regular v-6 Regal ? They both look the same, you get in start the engine, drive to where you're going, shut off the engine, get out....you're there !!!
They both do the same thing ....But one IS a little nicer. ;) :biggrin:
 
your right 1badgt and sometimes i wish i had just bought the n/a regal that way it would be alot easyer to work on :biggrin:
 
CHANCE said:
your right 1badgt and sometimes i wish i had just bought the n/a regal that way it would be alot easyer to work on :biggrin:
I don't think you'll get any argument here from anyone about that........ :D

Also, I have never heard any bad things about the be-cool kit.But this kit my friend bought just looks like crappy workmanship, thats all.
 
"Crappy" is a respective term, that's why I personally build everything myself. To some, it might not matter so long as it works, can never even be seen, and gives the desired (also respective) results.

I know a ton of ppl with coolingmist setups, especially with the deisel crowd... no complaints. Same thing with SMCs and from the raves here, the PAC too. Would I buy any of them, hell no, but then again I like C and soldering.

So don't feel embarrassed with what you have, the primary goal is to please you, if you're satisfied don't let anyone else put you down.

And for the finale: a Hobbs switch at the track with a decent boost controller & transbrake does very little degredation to power when compared to a progressive kit. If your controller is setup to keep boost within a few psi between shifts per each stage on the controller, then progressive BECOMES a binary process. Only difference is when ramps for boost are used, but that is primarily only occuring exaggeratedly from launch to 1st. But even then, the injection slopes on any of the controllers are not that close across the entire range unless there is feedback and learning from the knock sensor, something way to complex $$$ and that is already integrated into closed loop ECUs or open loop with a moderately intelligent human popping in some fixed numbers.

Tuning for street is actually the harder process for alky injection. Much greater range of boost to work with and progressive then plays a much larger role. Even then, injection errors can be nullified to a degree with some degrees :)
 
PhilM said:
And for the finale: a Hobbs switch at the track with a decent boost controller & transbrake does very little degredation to power when compared to a progressive kit.

Your forgetting the majic of volume. And the adjustablility of that volume. Becuase weather changes can play a role in quantity. So your setup described above is gonna take a lot of fooling with to get dialed in rite if you want to really make power. And that fooling comes from varying pressure and or nozzle sizes. Both which can be done electronically.

But if performance doesnt matter.. an NA Regal may be the best option :wink:
 
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