Is a hotair in canada IC? Had to ask
just for fun, but I would say our hotair's are IC once we drive where it's 30 degrees or lower right?
No really I would like new
hot air recipes
People that do drag it, what's your ETs, what's your combo etc/
I think the hot air recipes should get updated. I would like to see TT CHIP, alky etc on one of the recipes. hot air recipes at gnttype, lets make a turbobuick write up on recipes.
Not sure if you are seriously looking for some input, but here it goes:
Disclaimer:
There are as many combinations and goals available as there are opinions.
This is therefore a documentation of "my philosophy". The decisions are based on FMEA, DFMAS, and TOC, backed by calculations/correlation of variables, and in-depth data analysis. (No, I am not kidding)
My philosophy will not work for everyone. I am still learning a lot about these cars, and continue to me amazed how much it is that I do not know.
This is what I would do/did for a recipe.
First and foremost, start with a realistic goal that YOU can life with i.e.: Weekend cruiser, weekend racer, dyno queen, street racer, car will be raced and rebuild every year, long distance mileage runner, just something different without much care for performance, etc.
Based on your goal, be sure to understand the limitations of Time and $$$$!!!
Research every available performance part option, and their limitations on the combination of parts.
FULLY understand ALL the changes made to the car!
Go back and match your budget to your time and performance goal, and adjust the goal if necessary. Accept NO shortcuts in your build!
Moving on . . . .
The details and build philosophy listed below are aimed towards 1/8 and ¼ mile performance.
I just started with the fuel since the car as a DD would not be seeing race gas.
If the goal was a ¼ mile time, I would worry about fuel later.
You can CLEARLY see how the goal affects MANY of the the decisions made.
Whatever your goal, it should be VERY specific in your mind, i.e: 93/alky, race gas 100/110/116, E85, E85/alky, E100 , 1/8 mile, emission legal, NO2, alky/race gas/no2, combination of gas with/without IC, etc, etc, etc.
I just can't stress this enough, otherwise you may be doing it again.
It is widely accepted that the build for a 12 second goal will be different than an 11 second car. (Assuming the tune if correct - Just speaking general terms here)
However, my philosophy after a few builds, is to build the motor for at least one second quicker, or XXX HP depending on the weight of the car.
You have a goal . . . .
Once the goal and budget are established, you can establish a boost number based on the fuel octane and mechanical set-up (CR, VE, Combustion chamber design, etc), to make the goal.
Example: If the plan is to run on 93/alky, on a non IC'd set-up with the AC in the summer, the boost number may be 18-25.
If the fuel plan is race gas/alky, run and cool down, the HA boost number may be 25-33
These number are just examples.
I than try to determine what it takes to run that boost number and goal.
Boost alone does not get it done, but boost must be a concurrent variable in the total equation of the build.
A stage motor can probably run and easy 11's on 14PSI boost, so that is the point.
Now that the goal is known, you can estimate/correlate/calculate the HP goal - When you do this, be careful of the calculators out there, as they are not TR Buick friendly.
Also remember: The calc number is WHP, unless specifically stated. You need to add about 20% to get to Crank HP.
Before I write the rest of this book, I will say this:
It is my understanding that racers who run pure methanol often remove the IC.
The IC removal does not always work either because it depends on the volume of air flow at a given temp as well. Think more of it in terms "heat energy needed to evaporate XX fuel/sec".
You will need HEAT to evaporate the fuel. The better the evaporation, the more complete the burn, the more energy is extracted from XX fuel, the lower the BSFC, the higher the engine output.
Again, not going to get into detail as there is much more to this, and there are many threads all over this board and the WWW on this.
Whatever you decide, if rebuild for your goal or because you "have to"; Build a SOLID bottom end, balanced, blue printed, etc. (Parts selection depends on your goals)
Get some good flowing heads, with sufficient spring for the cam. Be sure the heads are done right!
Match the cam to the build and goal (Don't focus on just the advertised numbers, but study ALL the cam specs and timing events)
Port the intake (There are quite a few options pending your point of view and goal, i.e; Ported, gutted, hybrid, unobtanium, etc)
Turbo . . . .
Match the turbo to the combo, which should match your goal.
Example: If you are going to spin to 5000 RPM, your turbo and cam should be much different as opposed to 6500 rpm @XX boost.
If you choose to go with a "bolt on TA33", you may be limited to some XX boost at XXXX rpm. You will need to get some an idea of the limits of the combo.
Example: You often hear about e TA49 upgrade. TA49 is a GREAT turbo, but it will not work well on a Stage 2 motor. On the other hand, a 70mm turbo works GREAT on a S2 motor, but not very well on a stock block,/stock converter/un-ported head/pump gas combo.
Any of the IC'd TA turbo's can be converted. Won't be cheap, but it can be done for around $600 - $1200
Match the turbo to the engine size/CR, cam, heads and its operating RPM, all of which should match your goal.
What else?
So you have the long block, intake, and turbo, now, all that is left are:
Injectors (Clean ones) - This will depend on the goal and fuel you plan to run.
Fuel pump/FPR/HW - Get a pump big enough, +20% to supply the Lb/hr @ XX psi of fuel for the injectors, for the BSFC of the fuel you plan to run.
ECM of your choice - 87 or Aftermarket
WB set-up - Get one!
EGT – The more info the better
MAT – (Not IAT which is good as well) The more data the better – You will be amazed what you see.
Power Logger if you use stock style ECM - Get it!
Aftermarket MAF, or, TT SD chip. (depending on the goal)
Alky (if that was a goal)
Radiator/Electric fan/thermostat/oil cooler/trans cooler/alternator/plug wires/ignition system/headers/DP upgrade, etc.
TT Chip – Get it for the 87 ECM!! A good chip/tune makes or breaks ANY combo, stock or performance, period!
Build the trans, suspension, rear (depending on the goal).
Get good tires (depending on the goal).
I am sure I missed a few things.
Get a good converter!
IMHO, this should be the last thing you get, after the tune and combo are all worked out.
Discuss with a TR transmission converter specialist, or duplicate.
This is where a log with power logger, indicating a good tune and RPM data, is powerful.
Last and not least: Patience!!
All the parts in the world mean absolutely NOTHING without a good tune and tuning a combo takes patience and meticulous review of the data.
There you have it. There was no attempt in being vague, but, it is very hard to be specific until the goal is known and understood. Over the past years, I have reviewed many combination options and have a few ideas left to try, when I retire . . . . maybe.
I no longer have the time or determination to try/test different limitations for each combo so, I needed an approach that would provide the highest chance of success, hence the indepth analysis.
I often think that if I had to do it all again, I would deliver the car somewhere, with a goal and budget in mind, and pick it up when it was done. But I would not have the knowledge I gained from the trials and errors I made. I have had (still do) my share of HA problems but have been able to get around most of them in one way or another.
.
It happens but not very often.
