Just got a Scanmaster, need help sorting out my car.

[earlbrown]

It's pretty easy to do an injector swap. Just hold the 'flats' with a 19mm wrench when cracking stuff loose (you'll see what I mean when you get in there).

Go ahead and blast out the holes where the injectors sit in the manifold now and spray some light oil like WD40 in there now. That'll help the orings slide out without too much heroics.

and get some nicklebased antiseeze if you don't have any for the 4 fasteners that go into the alum manifold too.

 

[Heisenberg]

I'm kind of surprised that none of the replies mentioned to look at what I am assuming is a stock style, 25 year old MAF.
Unless I missed some note on upgrade.
Because I got the part about the stumbling at cruise, but I think I recall hearing about rough idling, stumble city during normal driving.
For me - if it is the stocker - I would relocate it directly to the trash can.
But then - there goes the big payday at Barrett Jackson...sigh...
Ok- maybe harsh, but even testing them is tricky - so I'd lean towards at least trying a quick swap with a known good unit.
Such as they are.

Try tapping reasonably gently on your MAF while the car is idling and see what happens.
These stock MAFS are like lightbulbs - when they are lit and you shake them - they do crazy.

 

[Heisenberg]

I checked the TPS readings on the Scanmanster today.

With engine off, key on, not touching the throttle it read .42
Floored it read 4.6
According to the Scan manual this is within normal range, correct?

That is fine.

 

[Heisenberg]

I'm thinking my next course of action should be a new chip, injectors, and hotwire kit.

Should I bother replacing the fuel pump, or just do the hotwire kit first?

I did check all the hoses and vac lines today, all looks good.

This car has been kept in a climate controlled garage all of it's life. Things under the hood look brand new. It's amazing how well preserved this car is. It still has the factory delivered Eagle GT's on it. I checked the date codes to be sure.

I will also most likely put new tires on the car, to preserve the original ones.

It's still got the Eagle GTs it was born with...it's one of "those"
I remember those...
Just please remember, you do know these care were designed to do this...

 

[turbotroy]

Hi, I would do NO more WOT testing until you get a lot of the spring cleaning stuff done, the chip and injectors, and fuel pump and hotwire installed, unless you also want to learn to change head gaskets and more... Congratulations on having a 16K mile GN! There's a lot of good info here, and a lot of diverse opinions, and a lot of what is on the older sites is not applicable anymore. As far as the maf goes, which could be causing a lot of the issues your describing, I would go with the LT1 maf and translator. Bob Baily's TR6 module and coil pack will also help get you into the 21st century. AC Delco plugs are junk, I prefer NGK's or Autolite racing I think 132's. And of course a Powerlogger to go with your Scanmaster, and you need a Wide Band 02 so you know what's up with your fuel mix, along with a fuel pressure gauge. I know I just spent about $2000 for you, but until you get your cars demons chased down, this is what I would do for my 16K Buick. I'm sure there's stuff I missed, like TT 80# injectors and chip costing the same as the 60#'s. Where are you located? There's good folks around the country to help so you won't have to re-invent the wheel, so to speak Cheers!
Troy

 

[earlbrown]

I'm kind of surprised that none of the replies mentioned to look at what I am assuming is a stock style, 25 year old MAF.

I learned my lesson a long time ago with that one. It's amazing how many cars run just fine with the stock style MAF....




......then if one happens to get the newer style it's like 'oh shit, it runs so much better and wheelspin knock is gone"

 

[Bescurred]

I learned my lesson a long time ago with that one. It's amazing how many cars run just fine with the stock style MAF....




......then if one happens to get the newer style it's like 'oh shit, it runs so much better and wheelspin knock is gone"

Wednesday I will be one of those people lol...along with the alky kit ooohhh yeah baby!

 

[jasjamz]

Post a list of all the readings at idle. Then at cruise. Then try this. Start the car, unplug the cam sensor cap. Go for a ride. See if it drives normal. No wide open throttle blasts though.

Posted from the TurboBuick.Com mobile app

 

[jlat]

hello people; You have a virgin of a GN there and if it has been in a climate controlled life it's been pampered for sure. Good luck with it. Do you still have the stock chip? If you do I'd put it back in for now and see what happens. Others say with todays fuel it not the way to go but at one time I had my stock 86 T chip and it ran fine. I'm no racer but from there you can see when you change things what happens. Also I'd look up that chip you have and see exactly was is burned into it. Another thing is fuel and filter. Unless you drain and fill every now and then that also could be a problem. I also found the longer a car sits the more crap happens such as my PM brake system. I also would go to the TT site and ask some questions about things as he has a question and answer set up that could help. I also believe you have to drive it more.
have fun
IBBY

 

[rob j]

Great replies so far. I'm listening. Here's a couple of pics of the car. Keep the suggestions coming. Next time I'm out to my warehouse, I'll record all the scanmaster #'s at idle.

[/URL]

 

[TurboTdr3.8]

You have one more nice ride for sure and loaded too , pw, pwdlock and pseats , Thanks for sharing the pics

 

[rob j]

You have one more nice ride for sure , Thanks for sharing the pics

Thanks, yes it is an unbelievably clean car. It shows even better in person. I graduated high school in 1987, and at that time, this was the car to have. I couldn't afford one back then. Now twenty plus years later I finally own one of the cars I lusted for during my senior year. It took me a while to find one this clean, but when I found it, I grabbed it. Now I just need to get it running right.

 

[626gn]

Absolutely beautiful car. In addition to the great advice given so far I would suggest giving your Powermaster a little attention as well. The fluid looks a bit dark and the fluid level on the passenger side chamber is too full. Always having fresh fluid is the single most important thing you can do to keep it running right (but even this may not guarantee problem free operation).

If your plan is to keep it mostly original and want to retain the Powermaster brake system follow Richard Clarks procedure outlined in post #5 in this link file:///Users/scottmorichika/Desktop/GN/powermaster%20brake/Draining%20Powermaster..%20|%20TurboBuick.Com.html

The above procedure will give you the best chance of keeping the Powermaster in a happy place.

 

[626gn]

Absolutely beautiful car. In addition to the great advice given so far I would suggest giving your Powermaster a little attention as well. The fluid looks a bit dark and the fluid level on the passenger side chamber is too full. Always having fresh fluid is the single most important thing you can do to keep it running right (but even this may not guarantee problem free operation).

If your plan is to keep it mostly original and want to retain the Powermaster brake system follow Richard Clarks procedure outlined in post #5 in this link file:///Users/scottmorichika/Desktop/GN/powermaster%20brake/Draining%20Powermaster..%20|%20TurboBuick.Com.html

The above procedure will give you the best chance of keeping the Powermaster in a happy place.

Sorry, link doesn't work. I'll just copy and paste:

keep life simple-----heres how to do it the easy way--------turn ignition off------pump pedal fully 10 times-------remove cover and take a turkey baster and remove the fluid from all three chambers----------replace it with dot 3 or 4-------do not use dot 5 synthetic because it will ruin the EPDM seals in the powermaster--------fill all three chambers to the marks that bring them to nearly full-------look close and you should see them--------replace the cap-----note: put the rubber gasket on the lid before putting it back on-------don't try to put it on the reservoir first--------turn the ingition on and watch the fluid level on the passenger side (inner most long chamber)-------it should drop to within about 1/4 of the bottom and stay there, you don't want it to empty completely-------add fluid if it goes too close to empty but not enough for the level to exceed 1/4 to 3/8 inch when it is pumped down-------the fluid from this chamber is stored in the accumulator and it needs to be able to go back to the reservoir if need be--------this simple two minute procedure doesn't remove all the fluid but it does change 80% of it and if you do this twice a year ( or each time you change your oil like i do) you will be covered-------it also eliminates all possibility of allowing air to enter the system that can happen if you to to the needless trouble to try to drain the lines as well--------normal operation will cause an exchange between the reservoir and the lines and regular changing will do all that is needed...............RC

 

[GNONYX]

You also need to replace the PowerMaster switch since it has been recall. Your original one is black and the replacement is grey color, and most probably the Accumulator bowl is all black also needs to have a replacement.
Kirban Performance has this replacement:
http://www.kirbanperformance.com/product/423/GM Original POWERMASTER BRAKE SWITCH #7175.html
http://www.kirbanperformance.com/product/318/BRAKE+ACCUMULATOR+BOWL+%236697.html

Also you can read this PDF file on the PowerMaster Recall

 

[626gn]

Looks like he already has the grey switch.