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redhotrod

Turbo Happy
Joined
Nov 19, 2002
Messages
392
Hey guys and gals,
Help me out here! My car is too freakin slow, the cool temps helped from last week, right now its 47*F, My best time tonight was 15.06 at 89 mph.
I threw in 1 gallon of xylene with .75 ounce of M M oil, to 1/4 tank of gas of sunoco 94 octane. Thought for sure that would help my knock problem. I can only run 11 psi before knock gets a little crazy. The home brew did make it peppier, but knock was still there.
My blms are at 111 and my int is around 128 and my fp is around 30psi static! I gotta double check to be sure the fuel gauge is accurate though, I have a piece of sh!t hypertech chip right now, but I think my problem is with my turbo, when it gets over 10ish psi, it starts to blow oil through, which I think is making it detonate, is that possible, yeah, probably. I should have a decent setup, I have everything in most of the gnttype recipes for the hot air cars plus my heads and intake are gasket matched. I'd love to get on this car above 10 psi, it really seems to scoot up there in boost.
What else might cause knock up in rpms, it starts showing up at around 3800 rpm. I really would love to see at least a 13.xx second time slip
 
dont mess with it if the turbo is blowing oil....

cant tune it if its ****ed up. also, hypertech sucks, put the stock chip back in..
 
Not enough fuel, too much timing. Too hot of spark plugs. I would start with the fuel. Got a good pump? Hotwire? Enough volume getting to the engine?
 
30 psi static!? Is that right? Turn your FP up. Stock is higher than that (34-40psi). Set it at 40-43psi static, then TUNE. Your asking for trouble with the FP that low.
 
I got ac delco cr43ts plugs in it all around, the only reason the fp is that low is because of the blm/int factor. And maybe the fp gauge is inaccurate, I gotta double check it. I do have the Walbro 340, not hot wired yet but the o2's/blms look good at WOT
Should I go up in plug size to a 44? And also, the stock chip is actually better than this pos hypertech? I'm gonna get with conleys to make me a chip, and limited engineering for a turbo rebuild kit. Then, eventually, alcohol injection!!
Thanks all
 
1. dont go with conleys to make you anything

2. limited engineering is a good choice

3. get a set of NGK UR5's. you dont want cr 44's, too hot.
 
so who makes a decent chip for the hotair, red armstrong says any hotair car is junk for racing and needs a intercooler, whatever, I'm here to prove you wrong buddy,
I cannot find NGK UR5 plugs around here, so which plug should I go with? 42's? I do have my cr43ts plugs right now gapped at .031"
 
First step....Change your turbo
I don't mean that you need to upgrade or anything but you will never be able to make any power with a leaky turbo.

Oil takes all of the octane out of your fuel, which is why you are getting detonation at such low boost.

I'm dead serious---- Don't do anything else untill you replace or rebuild your turbo!!!!!!!!!!!!!
 
you definatly need a hotwire kit...with ported heads you definatly need more fuel and 30psi is way too low...the reason your getting good BLM readings is b/c if the FP is too low the computer recognizes this and trys to fix it and starts DUMPING in fuel....this is not a good way to go...put the FP to around 42 then lower it 1psi at a time until it feels strongest with minimal knock....the hotwire is a definate though...i think the turbo is a problem as well...i suspect mine as having a leak too b/c w/ the mods I have it just does not seem to hae any balls...

for the chip, go with a jim testa chip...he custom burns chips to your combo for $60, bar none the best way to go...i forget his website but if you cant find it i can locate it again...
 
a good chip

Jim Testa, from Precisionte.com burns great hot air chips, get his e-mail address from precision, and ask him for help...He does a good job for the $.

John
 
Thanks so much you all
Just ordered the turbo rebuild kit from Limited engineering, Now I'm gonna get a chip. The only problem that I had with knock was after it got over 12psi in 3rd gear drive, at 3800rpm and above. Every thing is dandy till then, unless if I stood on it from a dead stop. It was worse with the more higher fp though. I do believe that the turbo is the main culprit though.
So should my 43 plugs be an ok heat range?
 
Originally posted by TType84
dont mess with it if the turbo is blowing oil....

cant tune it if its ****ed up. also, hypertech sucks, put the stock chip back in..

I agree. No point in trying to tune it with the motor burning oil. Save your headgaskets and get the turbo fixed. Oil lowers the octane signifigantly.
 
1. Fix your turbo.

2. CR43TS's are good, and should work fine for you. (.035) gap works well. The smaller gap usually works well with higher boost and/or alky (mine are gapped a bit lower at about .032). NGKUR5s are also good. You can order them from Advanced Auto Parts. They will need the actual part# though. I'll have to look for it but I know its been posted in the alky forum (do a search).

3. Joe Lubrandt (P.T.E.) will get you straight with the chip. Although I wouldnt blame your problems on the Hypertech chip. In fact I knew a guy a couple years ago who ran a 14.5et with an almost stock car (couple mods: i.e. k&n, etc.) and a hypertech chip. Dont get me wrong though, I wouldnt put one in my car.

4. To repeat myself from before, KEEP THE FP UP. As fireberd350 said the ECM is compensating by throwing tons of fuel in. Thats why your geting the low BLM #s. Your probably running rich on the lowend and leaning out on the topend. Im sure the car feels fast as heck somewhere in between.... "leaner is meaner".
The topend is what you should be worrying about and tuning for. This is where you get your most boost and really start cooking. Tune for no KR on the top (3rd gear, 50-85+mph). Dont tune for BLM! Tune for KR. You can watch your O2s also. But tune for no KR!

Good luck.
 
Originally posted by redhotrod
so who makes a decent chip for the hotair, red armstrong says any hotair car is junk for racing and needs a intercooler, whatever, I'm here to prove you wrong buddy,
I cannot find NGK UR5 plugs around here, so which plug should I go with? 42's? I do have my cr43ts plugs right now gapped at .031"
That's interesting since Red burns the chips for Lee Thompson, myself and a fellow named John who all run hot airs. You did talk to John at Quad air right? If not ask for John he'll burn you a chip for the hot air, I have personally only spoken to Red a couple times and both times were either at BG or Norwalk. Never dealth with him over the phone. OR call Precision turbo and engine and Joe Lubrant burns a excellent chip. Trust me after this last conversation with Red really not too impressed with his lack of customer service. Basically I could of talked to a stump and received more information...Just my two cents..
 
I ordered the stock turbo rebuild kit the other day, and today I ordered a custom chip from Joe Lubrant from PTE. I'm not sure who I talked to at Quad Air, but man, he really was trying to talk me out of owning a hot air. Says they are only good for show cars, I did mention to this guy about Lee Thompson and whoever this guy was on the phone said he knows Lee and Lee is a stubborn guy that just won't go intercooled. I also mentioned 6x2, but he still persisted me getting an intercooled car. Naw, my hotair will hit at least hi 12's one day, unfortunetly not soon enough though.
Where should my o2's be at WOT, between 750-800? Thats where they are right now. I'll dial my fp up again but when I had it up around 42, o2's were over 800 wot, and blms at idle were 104, does that sound strange?
 
When was the last time you changed your O2 sensor? It has to be right for your #s to be right. Also do you have any exhaust leaks, especially before the turbo? (i.e. up pipe or headers).

Get the new chip in and see how things are. Ask JL what static FP you should be at with the chip. He will probably tell you 43~psi.
O2s over 800 are fine, especially on pump gas, and a hotair car. Youve got to have fuel to make power. My car has always seemed to flow better when the O2s are over 800, sometimes as high as 840. I can even see it in the MAF readings, which are higher. If after the chip your #s are showing the car running rich + your not getting any KR, then its time to start SLOWLY turning up the boost. With the FP so low, like youve been running, your performance will be stuck where its at, because you will never be able to run more boost. Its a fine balance your trying to keep between fuel and boost, thats what tuning is all about.
REMEMBER the only #s that really matter are WOT on the topend of a run (3rd gear). When are those #s your mentioning happening? (with the JL chip your BLMs should peg 128 at WOT). Tune for the topend. If your not getting any KR there, your fine. Thats where you will get actual KR. Most of the KR you might get at lower gears is probably at the shift, etc. (or false kr), and only lasts for a split second.
 
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