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Just got dynoed

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Car should be making over 300hp to the wheels. Id fix all the problems with the car first. The VSS code 24 and the CTS error 1 at 17psi5 are causing big problems. The chip needs to know the wheel speed or it will think its in first gear or default to a different setting. If the ecm sees low coolant temp it will add fuel in open and closed loop and may default to a setting when airflow is maxed on the MAFS. Id make sure your manually locking the torque converter before the dyno pull. The numbers will come up a lot.

1. Fix error code problems.
2. Make sure sensors are adjusted correctly, especially the TPS.
3 Make sure the fuel pump is getting alternator voltage and hotwire if necessary.
4. Get some better fuel in the car. The more octane the better.
5. Using the TT chiop get tyhe car to run around 11.0:1.
6. You can slowly add boost and timing while adding fuel on the chip.
7. Car should put down over 400 hp and 600 ft lbs with the converter locked, 25 psi, and 24 degrees advance. Id tune to 11.3:1 for max power on a wideband readout.
 
No need for an aftermarket ecm at this point. The numbers in my sig were all done on a factory ecm and stock MAFS with one screen removed. the blue car was at a conservative 24.5 psi. It had been to 27 psi.Blue car 559/706 and black 126mph@3600 lbs 24.5 psi.
 
I just did 2 wot runs
1st did 798 0.0 knock @17 lbs
2nd did 805 0.0 knock @ 17lbsboost
Wierd doesn't seam lean by the sm but by the dyno it was rich ....lean the whole pull back and forth.
I'm ready to drive this thing off a bridge
 
I just did 2 wot runs
1st did 798 0.0 knock @17 lbs
2nd did 805 0.0 knock @ 17lbsboost
Wierd doesn't seam lean by the sm but by the dyno it was rich ....lean the whole pull back and forth.
I'm ready to drive this thing off a bridge

Make sure you jump out when she goes ............. :eek:



Just kidding.
These cars can test your patience.
798 on straight 93 pump is rich.
Follow Bison's advice. He knows his stuff!
 
Anyone think my car could be using more fuel than needed with the 160 thermostat? I do have an extender chip which should eliminate that issue, but I never did get a code for low coolant temp even with the low running temps from the thermostat and a stock chip. Ive always wondered this, even though my o2's read around 50 millivolts on the highway on lean cruise...doesnt seem like its running rich, but its always used more fuel than it should with what I have.
 
Plumin if you need a helping hand I can help out. I have gone through my fair share of problems and upgrades with these cars and know my way around pretty well. By the way was the Dyno on 65st in Brooklyn?
 
Anyone think my car could be using more fuel than needed with the 160 thermostat? I do have an extender chip which should eliminate that issue, but I never did get a code for low coolant temp even with the low running temps from the thermostat and a stock chip. Ive always wondered this, even though my o2's read around 50 milivolts on the highway on lean cruise...doesnt seem like its running rich, but its always used more fuel than it should with what I have.
The thermostat wont make a significant difference in fuel mileage. A little but not much at all. For low coolant temp code to be thrown it has to read< -47 for at least 3 seconds. 50 milivolts? .450 is 14.7:1. It should read less than 450 millivolts or its not leaner than 14.7:1. The fuel pressure has to be set according to the chip burner. If its higher or lower it will be richer or leaner. The car is in open loop during lean cruise and not using the O2 sensor for input.
 
The thermostat wont make a significant difference in fuel mileage. A little but not much at all. For low coolant temp code to be thrown it has to read< -47 for at least 3 seconds. 50 milivolts? .450 is 14.7:1. It should read less than 450 millivolts or its not leaner than 14.7:1. The fuel pressure has to be set according to the chip burner. If its higher or lower it will be richer or leaner. The car is in open loop during lean cruise and not using the O2 sensor for input.

It will read anywhere between 40 millivolts to 70 during lean cruise, which according to full throttle, is about 16.5:1...assuming my exhaust is pretty sealed up, which it is nowadays. During fuel enrichment...when Im climbing this 3 mile hill on the way to work and Im at about 2-3psi all the way up, my o2's are around 760 millivolts...which I would figure is around 12:1-12.5:1...not that the factory o2 sensor is reliable when trying to tune though. I know that its in open loop during lean cruise, but you do still get an o2 reading on the scanmaster...not that the computer is using the data as far as I know.
 
It will read anywhere between 40 millivolts to 70 during lean cruise, which according to full throttle, is about 16.5:1...assuming my exhaust is pretty sealed up, which it is nowadays. During fuel enrichment...when Im climbing this 3 mile hill on the way to work and Im at about 2-3psi all the way up, my o2's are around 760 millivolts...which I would figure is around 12:1-12.5:1...not that the factory o2 sensor is reliable when trying to tune though. I know that its in open loop during lean cruise, but you do still get an o2 reading on the scanmaster...not that the computer is using the data as far as I know.

This is all correct. When going up the hill its not in lean cruise anymore. Actually around 11.2:1 on most sensors believe it or not when reading .760v and the ecm is not using the O2 numbers for correction at all in lean crusie. With a locked converter and a good tight engine with decent leakdown numbers id expect at least 25 mpg on the highway at 60 mph if the front end is lined up properly. More if a small cam is employed and the compression ration is more than the stock 8.0:1. Less if you drive faster, and much less if you have a frequently heavy foot:biggrin: .
 
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