K.I.S.S. build..... Daily driver

[8liter]

My buddy is finally gonna do something to his gn. It's got ~160k on it so he's wanting to redo the motor and trans. It's all stock except for a walbro/hotwire. I feel comfortable with a local machine shop doing the motor, but the trans I feel needs to go to a specialist.

I'm kinda of birddogging this for him and want to stay as close to the stock electronics as possible, but make as much power as possible. This car will be a daily driver. I've read a little, new injectors, timing chain set and valve springs.

What other suggestions? cam? converter? turbo? chip?

Thanks, Casey.

 

[salvageV6]

Don't touch it until you get well over 200K on it.

Timing chain, valve springs, and a good tranny buildup is all you need.

11 second daily driver power with an alky. kit and 93 pump gas.

Aluminum MAF and extender type alky. chip and injectors or a TT allky chip.

Assuming a Buick built stocker with decent oil pressure still.

Only get a converter if you change the turbo or build the tranny.

I like lockups with stock headed Buick built motors. :smile:

Lean cruise features help too with mpg.

A stock Buick build may live forever at 400 to 425 RWHP on pump and alky.

 

[gusszgs]

Aluminum MAF

Does this increase HP, not try'n to nit pic, just curious??
If I went to 3" aluminum as apposed to the factory 3" rib?
Sorry, for the hijak

 

[Daniel Jost]

Gusszgs if your talking about upgrading to an lt1/ls1 aluminum sensor and translator from a stock maf at low power levels there is very little performance gain other than they look better. They are much more reliable and most people update when the stock sensor fails..

Dan

 

[salvageV6]

IF you stick with the stock MAF on a daily driver keep a spare around or with you in the car, it's not a question of if it'll fail, just when.

The LS1 Alum. MAF's are durable and well made with a translator and proper chip they give you driveability and tuneablility and extended metering capability.

You might want to convince him to get a spare powermaster or vacuum brake setup as well for daily stuff.

If the motor has the proper oil pressure and is Buick built, I wouldn't touch the thing until he needs to make over 450 RWHP in his daily.

Spare ECM and coil pack are nice to have around as is caspers tester and cam setting tool for when you do the timing chain.

Rear main seal can be done if leaking when you do the timing chain.

He needs to determine his goals for his daily driver, 23-25 psi. on a stocker with pump gas and alky. is decent power on the street. :smile:

Don't forget some drag radials out back and perhaps some brake and suspension mods. with braces.

My motor far outlasted the body on my car, of course 23 winters didn't help much, don't forget the snow tires on spare rims too. :smile:

 

[we4Mateo]

My car lives in that 400rwhp or so area and I use all stock stuff. The only reason I had to put new bearings in was my own fault from preignition as the result of a voltage drop. We put the stock pistons with stock rings back in the motor though as EVERYTHING looked great except the bearings and rods, that were straightened. I plan on putting 200k miles on this build if I can keep myself from getting that 6262SP I've always wanted...and I feel 400rwhp on true street tires is plenty coupled with the torque these cars put out. Any more and I would need DRs all the time. I try to put 10k miles a year on my car though too, depends on your goals I guess.

 

[Lugnutz]

Im the guy with the beater that 8liter is bird-dogging for. Thanks Casey.

The only other mod made to the car was vacuum breaks when the Powermaster died. Thanks for all the answers. Im sure over the next several months I will be bugging the crap out of the forum members for information!