Knock sensor replacement

[BRAD_PADGETT]

Does anybody know any steps which make changing out the knock sensor easier? I am replacing my knock sensor and need to get the right torque. Thanks- Brad

 

[Boost231]

brad, from the times i have done it there is no easy way. when the motor is in the car its hard to get a good torque on it since you have to use extensions. only easy was is with the motor out of the car. other then that your kinda stuck

 

[Jerryl]

If you want to do it right (which sounds like you are ), here is what is needed;
Loosen and remove the TB and move out of the way. Leave everything connected.
Remove the EGR pipe, if you have one.
Get a long 10" extension.
Now you have a straight shot at the KR sensor.

I don't recall if a flex is needed, but if it is, it will be straight enough no not make a significant change. :wink:

 

[BRAD_PADGETT]

Thanks- I am going to remove my fxxxing knock sensor and personally beat the sxxt out of it with a sledge hammer. I am sick and tired of replacing everything and guessing on WTF is going on.

One of the last things on my knock problem list(Suicide Six-Knock Knock Boom) is the knock sensor. Powerlogger confirms that knock starts at three lbs boost no matter what. The stinking knock sensor must be picking up the sound of the turbocharger. Ta33C and stock turbo both cause this. Alky, timing, ESC, HR motor mounts, fueling IGN.. blah blah changes have not made one difference in my knock problem.

Venting frustration here. Here is my plan. If the new knock sensor does not cure the problem then the ECM and chip will have a date with sister sledge and be replaced. If a new chip and ECM won't fix the knock problem then the waste gate actuator rod will be disconnected. I will have then achieved one really great looking GN with capable of an 18 second quarter. Thanks- I will keep everyone posted and throw any and all comments out here. Nobody can hurt my feeling here! Brad

 

[Boost231]

brad, souns like you are having the same problem i did. good luck. i never figured mine out

 

[Jerryl]

brad, souns like you are having the same problem i did. good luck. i never figured mine out

That is too bad you never figured ot out as the info (IMHO) could help save a LOT of HA conversions.

 

[Boost231]

very true. i was getting so pissed off, i went to and XFI and it fixed it some how.

 

[BRAD_PADGETT]

very true. i was getting so pissed off, i went to and XFI and it fixed it some how.

Brent- I am pissed off as well and can't wait until that ******* knock sensor is in my hands. I start today in removing the *** **** thing. Keep you posted. Brad

 

[boostmaster]

Knock Sensor

Thanks- I am going to remove my fxxxing knock sensor and personally beat the sxxt out of it with a sledge hammer. I am sick and tired of replacing everything and guessing on WTF is going on.

One of the last things on my knock problem list(Suicide Six-Knock Knock Boom) is the knock sensor. Powerlogger confirms that knock starts at three lbs boost no matter what. The stinking knock sensor must be picking up the sound of the turbocharger. Ta33C and stock turbo both cause this. Alky, timing, ESC, HR motor mounts, fueling IGN.. blah blah changes have not made one difference in my knock problem.

Venting frustration here. Here is my plan. If the new knock sensor does not cure the problem then the ECM and chip will have a date with sister sledge and be replaced. If a new chip and ECM won't fix the knock problem then the waste gate actuator rod will be disconnected. I will have then achieved one really great looking GN with capable of an 18 second quarter. Thanks- I will keep everyone posted and throw any and all comments out here. Nobody can hurt my feeling here! Brad

Ok Bard I'm gonna help you out here before you go F***ing crazy replacing parts again. If you suspect that the knock sensor is faulty and picking up false readingas as you say then how about testing it first. Start your engine and allow it to reach operating temperature. Then grab a long screwdriver or extension and while the engine is running tap on the areas that you expect the knock sensor is picking up false readings. If you record knock on your meter then the sensor is faulty or the components are not properly mounted. You can also check the sensor by banging on the engine block (the block, not the head, not the intake) either by the cylinders or by the knock sensor. Record the amount of knock in relation to the amount force applied to the object. If you are barely touching any component and you get major knock more than likely you have a bad sensor. If you don't get any knock at all when trying this method more than likely you have a bad ESC module or sensor. You should get minimal less that 5* unless you're really banging it. But you'll see what I mean.

 

[BRAD_PADGETT]

OK. I will run a powerlogger test and check for knock and document. This will be in the next hour or so. I will not be able to test at 1800 rpm until my son gets home from school. Brad

 

[boostmaster]

knock

Also if I recall you said that you would get knock at anything above 3 psi. And also with realtively low boost with race fuel. Is this knock audible? I would assume that if it is real knock by the time you got up to 10-12 psi you'd be having some major detonation and really hear it. So if this is the case dude and your knock is audible changing all the knock sensors in the world won't solve the problem. If this is the case more than likely your problem is is either mechanical, bad fuel or air flow problem or electrical, ecm, ignition, or can sensor adjustment.

 

[BRAD_PADGETT]

The knock is not audible to the ear at all. Even up to ten degress of knock. Time to log. Post in awhile. Brad

 

[BRAD_PADGETT]

First test at Idle and warmed up. Banging all over the motor. Used a crow bar an banged on the drivers side head. No knock whatsoever. ESC module is brand new. I will test next at 1800 rpm and post. Brad

 

[BRAD_PADGETT]

RPM-2000-Banged all over the engine and tapped the block with a crow bar and hammer. No knock. Brad

 

[tb3]

yikes! sensors not working or not hooked up properly, etc... you should be showing knock if your banging on your engine with crowbar.

i can't remember all the details on your car, and i'm sure this has already been mentioned, but, haven't you had the heads off and had some work done? if you've replaced several componets, and checked all obvious places for knock, you might have something internal going on, possibly (very slightly) bent pushrod maybe? also, have you tried resetting your chip, turning your alky off, and seeing if your still getting knock at low boost?

hang in there buddy

 

[boostmaster]

Ok sorry for the delay Brad but I am currently overseas in Iraq and there is an 8hr time difference. So you did not get any KR on thoses attempts. I would suggest as a last ditch effort you do a test by banging just beside where the sensor mounts without actually touching the sensor. Just do it at idle. If you don't get any KR then there is deffinately a problem with your sensor. At that area there is no way you should not get a KR reading.

 

[BRAD_PADGETT]

Boostmaster & TB3- I will test again tomorrow by the knock sensor. I am going in for the kill on the knock sensor if it does not respond to the hammer and crowbar. I am also going to document what is going on once the throttle body is out of the way. This is a weird problem- no knock when you bang on the engine by knocks like hell when the turbo starts boosting. Post back tomorrow night. Thanks- Brad

 

[Boost231]

you can always tap the sensor its self. last resort to see if it will go off.

 

[BRAD_PADGETT]

I have removed my knock sensor and it is in my hands awaiting its' destiny with the sledge hammer tomorrow. I need enough light. Can't afford to miss and hurt myself or my concrete garage floor.

The replacement knock sensor went in very very easy. The hardest part was getting the plug off the top of the sensor. Here are the steps:

1. Remove pipe from the MAF to the throttle body.
2. Unplug single wire connector.
3. Use a deeper 7/8 socket with a universal and long extension to loosen the sensor.
3. Take out the sensor with your hand and thread the new one in.
4. Torque the new one to 14 lbs. I guessed here but fourteen lbs is not very much.

I have results to report. The old sensor was installed very tightly. It took the 3/8 drive ratchet a good push in order to loosen the sensor. I have no idea if it is bad but it it time to kill the messenger. And no-I did not install the original sensor.

I test drove my car and amazingly no knock until 11 lbs boost no alky and that was only .9 degrees of knock. The car is noticably faster without the knock sensor retarding the timing. My knock problem can now be managed with alky when the boost goes up. Next target is spark plug wires which will be a new thread. Thanks- Brad

 

[garyk1970]

excellent brother sounded like it was tight/seized...either way would've been too sensitive...