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Lean running, lots of new parts...kinda stuck

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autocomman

New Member
Joined
Jun 22, 2010
Messages
6
Well first lemme get outa the way Im a new member, though Im not new to turbo cars...im a big volvo nut and have messed with turbo cars for a while, im also a diagnostic auto tech, have been for 10 years and this is where my question comes in.

We have a customer that brought in his 86 grand national. Long story short, he popped the motor, it was rebuilt and put back in, all stock. The car on the other hand has been butchered, molested, massaged, and all in all its had a rough life. It had 2 questionable fuel pumps, one in the tank one external. A turbonetics delta II waste gate, missing the boost control solonoid, and tee with the oriface is missing also, the wiring is thrashed. I'll make this story as quick as i can, heh

Ive put a stock pump in the tank, new filter, drained the fuel and put fresh premium and replaced the FPR, ive got a solid 37 psi with no vacuum on the regulator, if it boosts, it rises properly. I dont know what injectors are in it but they are not stock. The ECT and knock sensors are new A/C delco parts. The wiring, not by me was taped up so there shouldnt be any bare wires in the EFI harness. Battery and cables are new, all the grounds are there and are clean and tight. The waste gate is hooked up with a 7 lb spring in it, so boost is on the limited side right now, im fine with that till i get the rest of the car straightened out. Oh and there is no cat, so you can rule out plugged exhaust, heh.

The car is lean. Verified with the o2 sensor, scanner, its setting a lean code also. It runs as though its lean too. Some hesitation when getting into boost, its just not right. The idle is rough sometimes and it will surge, sometimes with a stall. Ive set the IAC properly so its a 20-25 steps with the TPS at .41 volts, and a sweep to about 4.7 at WOT. Intake hoses and boots are new, and the MAF was not. So we ordered one and i put it in. It was a standard brand part, not my choice, just what we could get at the time, and it looked different. It had like a narrow section in the middle of the tube, whereas the original one was a straight tube. The connector on the new one was also perpendicular to the body, and the old was was parallel. At idle with the old one it was 4-5 GMPS, the new one seemed to idle better and have better throttle response. It also idles closer to 6-7 GPMS. At 2000 RPM it also had a higher GPMS count. But punch the throttle at all and as soon as you get past that 0in vacuum and just touch boost it falls on its face, hard. you can do this in park just by revving it, not that hard even. Its not loosing spark, its frekin lean.

Now my question is am i looking at a faulty MAF? signs say yes but 2 'new' MAF sensors would say no, then again its defiantly possible they are not calibrated right anyway. It seems like they hit a point and just wont register more air flow. According to numerous parts sites, I have the correct standard replacement, but im not convinced. This guy has spent way too much money on this car, and he wont give up. Ive been working on finishing this car for the last 3 weeks and we need to make it right and get it out of the shop. Its preferred to keep stock parts in it, with out the MAF translators and all, but if thats what I got to do, then we will prolly do it. But I need to be absolutely convinced that will fix it ya know? We are so deep in this car its retatded.



SO, anyone got any ideas? Sorry for the long thread, and feel free to be as technical as you like, like I said, not new to turbo cars. My toy is a stroker volvo thats got a T3/T4 turbo, a nissan UD intercooler, 3" exhaust, ford T5, etc etc and megasquirt and spark to top it off.

Mark
 
Driverside header is possibly cracked. Causing boost issues and fall on it's face. Fuel injector are a factor for sure. Old or clogged. Double check all the vac lines for leaks or cracks. I'm thinking fuel injectors are causing problems.
 
What chip is in the ECM? Need to know what injectors are in the motor. It is possible the MAFs are not calibrated correctly. The replacement MAFs are a crap shoot at best. Any chance on getting a known good MAF?
 
Plug in your scan tool and take a look at the MAF readings. Here's some interesting reading from a well-respected TR mechanic/enthusiast: Vortex Turbo Buick Performance (Scan Tool Usage/AF = Mass Air Sensor Flow (MAF))

What type of air filter and air intake system is on this car? These engines need some serious airflow under boost and any restriction can cause them to choke. I'd recommend at least a 8" cone-style K&N filter on the end of the maf along with a mandrel-bent maf pipe to the turbo inlet. No mickey mouse body-colored chrome-capped shortys for this ride. Ask me how I know :rolleyes:

Welcome to the board and HTH - Jimmy
 
Had the exact problem a few months ago car just started to buck when given any gas after driving for about ten minutes. replaced with what i thought was a good one i had around it was worse! then Replaced with a meter you described (purchased from advance auto)thinner in the middle and car idled good and drove fine until about 3-5lbs of boost, the meter could not go past 150-160. I ordered a reman from Napa and it looked exactly like the original 87 meter i had on the car and car has ran great every since.
 
Its got 29 lb. injectors, and a chip. Z-Industries, Z-1 chip 12, Z9608, 87 buick GN auto, ARB EO NO D-264

Im leaning towards a MAF, the symptoms are right in line with the original one being bad, and the replacement not calibrated properly. We will get credit and im gonna talk to my boss about a ordering up a MAF translator. No exuast leaks, BTW. Its got an 8" cone K&N on it already, and mandrel piping. Its not starving for air by any means

Mark
 
Oh, and by popped i mean it was overheated and blew a head gasket, and it was pretty tired anyway, so ti was rebuilt, all stock. It overheated due to butchered fan wiring, which I went through and properly rewired as it was from the factory with the resistor for low speed, new relays etc etc....fan works well now so its fine
 
It could be a bad maf but to be sure you should try the obvious first. If you are ABSOLUTELY sure that the injectors are 29# then a good stock chip should run just fine (although stock chips have too much WOT timing).

Try to get your hands on a good known stock chip. That chip that's in there is EXTREMELY old technology and they weren't worth a crap when new. Get that one obvious step taken care of then we can move on if need be.

BTW, that was a wonderfully comprehensive description of the issues!!!!!!! I wish all could be so good!!
 
Thanks for the info, I feel im pretty thurough with diagnosis stuff and i get a point where i feel ive exhausted my options, or need someone to bounce ideas off of before moving to the next step, thats when i hit the forums. And this is looks to be a good forum with lots of good info. Im absoutly sure they are 29# injectors, i crossed the bosch number and thats what came up. The chip i dont like, and id love to get my hands on a stock one, but any idea where I can source one? is there anyone on the forum who may have one? or can burn one? Ive found ROM's for stock chips, but i dont have access to anyone off hand with a chip writer. (I run megasquirt myself, no need for chip stuffs, heh)

The MAF looks trashed to begin with, and being that this car is so beat to begin with, i think we will end up going with a MAF translator also. Unfortunatly im at the mercy of my boss, who has got lots of money tied up in the diasater of a project. I just wish the car was in better shape, but mainly i wish the customer was a little easier to deal with. We will see what happens, ill ill write back either way....but any thoughts on a stock chip?
 
Just give FullThrottleSpeed.com a call and get a Turbo Tweak chip. A whole world of difference.
 
It could be a bad maf but to be sure you should try the obvious first. If you are ABSOLUTELY sure that the injectors are 29# then a good stock chip should run just fine (although stock chips have too much WOT timing).

Try to get your hands on a good known stock chip. That chip that's in there is EXTREMELY old technology and they weren't worth a crap when new. Get that one obvious step taken care of then we can move on if need be.

BTW, that was a wonderfully comprehensive description of the issues!!!!!!! I wish all could be so good!!

+1.... if you can't find a stock chip, just get a new one from TurboTweak.com... $85.... he has one for those injectors (VERIFY the injectors!!)... although you will need to switch to an adj. fuel press. regulator... need to do that anyway, as all the aftermarket chips are calibrated for more than the stock fp that you are seeing.... usually 43 psi, vac. line off.... and I am also leaning towards a bad maf.... the reman calibrations are crap, and the 'necked down' configuration is a sure sign of the wrong maf....
 
Needs a new chip to match injectors. Eric(TurboTweak Home) can burn one to use with a 233 regulator(37psi).

And a new MAF. The best solution on this is get the "translator" from www.FullThrottleSpeed.com and use a newer MAF from an LT1.

These cars are sensitive to MAF and chips. Very sensitive. And having the issues your having, not knowing for sure the MAF is good.. there is but one alternative, bite the bullet and spend the $$$ to get the correct working parts.

HTH
 
Where are you located?

There may be someone local to you who has a good stock MAF that they'll loan you for diag.

I think you're on the right track.

Good luck
 
Good news everyone (for the futurama fans, heh) Car is fixed. Sourced a good used MAF, and vioala. Idles better than even, power is consistent and smooth, and this a-hole of a customer has finally taken this disaster of car out of our shop. It would have been a better experience if the car was nicer, and the customer wasn't so hard to deal with...lets put it this way, it was at the tranny shop getting the trans fixed...it was rebuilt and had some issues, long story short it needs a valve body, and the customer was so wound up he said i dont care, gimme the car...this was all part of the original bill mind you, the trans rebuild, and this trans repair was free for him. And we were trying to make the trans right, but customer said no....this is what ive had to deal with for the last 2 months. anywho, thanks for the help, time to move on....im gonna go play with the turbo on my Volvo now

Mark
 
Thanks for the feedback on the fix, it will help someone in the future I'm sure. It's amazing how much time/money/effort can be saved by checking with owners and tuners of these cars as you did.
Now bring on that TSM car; Turbo Swedish Meatball! :D
 
Its always good to find a forum where people seem to know what your talking about, and that have a welth of information. This is one of those sites. In putting this car back together, as I wasnt the one who took it apart, I referred to this forum and the one over at gnttype. Both great forums!

Mark
 
This was a well written write up of the problems. Here is my .02. While i have nowhere near the knowledge of Razor or Turbodave, I would have left the stock chip alone. The less you change, the less chance of newly introduced problems. I have an 87 TR with 194k miles on it. I ran the stock chip up until about 20k miles ago. I didn't race the car so I didn't need every ounce of performance out of it. The only problem with the stock chip was the "tip in stumble" where the car wants to die out before it warms up. This also applies to the stock chip in my 86 GN with 26k original miles on it. So for just normal driving, the stock chip has worked fine for me.
 
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