Lifter preload

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MarkJamesGN22

Member
Joined
Apr 25, 2023
Messages
31
I have searched and found thru all the posts here and articles from gnnttype that lifter preload should be around .030 to .035" . The posts I read were from back in the day, wanted to make sure you guys are still using that spec today?

Stock cam and lifters, thinner than stock RJC head gaskets, heads have been cleaned up also. So I am going to a shorter push rod. Springs are 100lb at the seat ( we're set at machine shop)

Thanks!
 
I set my old school Lunati Voo Doo 210-205 Flat Tappet cam with GM Lifers at 0.050” preload.
Cometic HG’s., stock rocker arms, Elgin 110# valve springs , TA Perf HD Rocker Shafts with (6) rocker shaft saddle supports & TA Performance Rocker Shaft Stud Mount Kit.
Had to order custom push rods in order to set them up.
Be sure to use a push rod checker to determine the correct length since you’ve changed HG’s
 
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Unless lifters are specifically reduced or short travel, Hydraulic roller or Hydraulic flat tappet lifters typically have .120" to .130" of travel. The deeper the preload, the more power is produced.
As oil temps rise, thinner viscosity oil is used, synthetic oil is used, rpms go up, boost rises, more spring pressure is used, cam ramp rate is quicker, rocker ratio is increased, running less oil pressure, then lifter bleed down is increased. That's bad.
This means less lift at the valve, and less duration is had. The less duration happens as sooner closing of the valve.
In effect the cam seems smaller to the engine, especially as related to intake closing which determines RPM peak power point, lowering it, sometimes substantially.
On the exhaust side, this phenomenon also reduces the duration which means less efficient evacuation of exhaust in the cylinder.
This is much worse on a turbo motor which has a much higher cylinder pressure than a N/A engine.
A 1.5" exhaust valve has a head area of 1.77 square inches. Multiply that times the cylinder pressure as the valve is just opening, (1000 psi and more,) and you easily have more than 1700 pounds pushing against that poor lifter!
This is so why you need thick wall chrome moly pushrods too!
On the intake side, the manifold pressure is trying to open the valve, easing the load on that lifters bleed down.
Another thing to think about is anything you do on the exhaust side to help "breathing" on a blown engine will drop the apparent boost, but raise the horsepower. This reduces the residual exhaust in the cylinder and allows morefresh air/fuel in.With belt driven blown motors this is easily seen on the boost gauge, but the turbos wastegate being "fixed" masks this symptom.
With a belt driven blower, anything done to raise the intake flow drops the boost because it allows the air into the cylinder to make HP, rather than stack up against the backside of the intake valve.
Improvements on the exhaust side reduce residual exhaust taking up space where fresh mixture belongs.
BOOST IS SIMPLY HORSEPOWER THAT HASN'T MADE IT INTO THE CYLINDER!
Boost (backpressure) is bad. Flow is good!

Once the RPM, BOOST, or spring pressure is higher, the more gains are possible with solid or reduced travel lifters.
HP boats react the same way. They can run miles at high RPM and the oil temp keeps getting hotter, allowing more bleed down. They benefit from water to oil coolers.
Bottom line back to the original point of the post, more lifter preload makes more power! Less lifter plunger collapse.
NHRA stock eliminator records are set with lifters set to about .010" from solid. The tech guys figured that out, so we filled them with 140wt gear oil!
Ya tow to the line with the engine off, do the burnout, set the record, then keep the RPMs up out of gear while slowing after the pass, and on the return road on the way to the tech barn to "wash out" the lifters so they pass tech.
The less or reduced travel lifter or more preload use is made better by BHJ decking the block square and measruring/correcting the rocker shaft to head surface distance. That allows running the preload/ravel tighter.
End of lesson.
TIMINATOR
 
P.S. I set my preload .030/.035 UP FROM THE BOTTOM.
The block and heads "grow" away from the cam so the preload is always less with the engine at running temperature.
Harleys use SBC roller lifters but with reduced upper end oiling.
On my built 136HP (87 HP stock) HD the difference between preload from normal .030/.035 from the top to adjusting from the bottom is around 5 to 7 Hp. And that's a 2 cylinder engine!
Cam is 268/276 @.050, .680/.720 lift.
Also my spring pressure is about 40 lbs. less than the cam calls for, or the HP difference would be greater. No valve float until 500 rpm over the shift point, that's all I need.
I have a bike dyno and my bike has externally adjustable pushrods, I have done extensive testing.
The HP difference changes with oil temp and viscosity too.
TIMINATOR
 
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