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List what your setup consists of

  • Thread starter Thread starter Eighty2Regal
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Eighty2Regal

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Pioneer 4300 cd player, 3 inch rockford fosgate in front, 6 by 9 pioneers in the rear, 2 300 watt jensen amps, 2 rockford fosgate 10's one is he and other is punch z.
what do you guys have? I think my stuff sounds like junk. Audiowizard I am especially curious of what kinda components you have. Do you use bass blockers or anything?
 
this stereo stuff is interestin, i am becoming more and more knowledgeable from you guys on the board and I really appreciate it. You guys give me good advice and I apply it. One of my friends was talking to me about how he wanted to put a system in his 2000 vtec accord. He was saying how he wanted people to know hes coming and he wanted his sound to be crystal clear also. I mean doesnt everyone in this car audio business want clarity now. Will the sound quality subs necessarily slam as hard as the non sq subs or is not that big of a deal? I could only wish you guys could recommend a setup for me that consists of great sound quality as per what size speakers I should use. If I should get rid of stock size speakers and use components what size subz work the best in these g-bodies and so on. Just let me know the scoop... I want good sound quality but I still wanna have some cash left when I am done with this stereo.
 
2002 Camaro Monsoon Delco head unit, Denon 2 ways up front with bass blockers and Blaus 3 ways in the doors and Kenwood 3 ways (6 x 9) in the deck with a Volfenhag 800 watt 4 channel amp. I learned a whole lot here too
 
how do u have those 6 by 9's mounted, mine are laying in my trunk cause i blew my 4 by 10's yesterday and I no longer have the 4 by 10 carriers i threw them away by accident. How do you get the 6 by 9's to fit back there? What size u have in the front 3-3 1/2???
 
Infinity 3.5" in dash
Pioneer 5.25" in doors
Pioneer 6X9" in rear dash using 4X10 adapter
MTX 10" sub in JBL tear drop housing powered by JBL 300 watt bridged amp. Very Bassy.
Pioneer P3500 head unit
Pioneer P head 6 CD changer. (which just died on me)

System sounds good inside car but outside it's not over powering, which is good I want to hear the music in the car not whne I'm coming down the street.
 
i mean truthfully is running off head unit power enough clear enought or the only way to go is with an external amp to the speakers?
 
2-Kicker S12L7's dual 4 olm voice coils
2-Kicker ZR360's one for each sub
1-Kicker ZR120 for the mids
1-Set of Kicker impulse 3 way 6x9's these puppies rock
1-Set of Kicker impulse 3 1/2's (hate them pop and crack)
1-Lighting Audio 1 Frad cap
1-Yellow top Optima deep cycle battery
Custom built enclosure for the subs
All Phoenix Gold wiring


I think I'm going to try and build some custom kick panels from fiberglass and put some 6 1/2 there. I'm also going to get some Kappa 3.5's for the dash and some 300hz blockers.
:cool:

I forgot my cd player is a Clarion (I dont know the model # off hand). I have a tv mounted between my t-tops and a vcr where the ash tray use to be. ;)
 
is a fosgate 250.2 enough power to power 2 10's or wont that slam very hard????? There are some good deals going with audiobahn aw 10's, 12's, 15,s at www.zebaudio.com. I was just wondering how many watts would be accpetable to power them. Do you think a fosgate 250.2 would be louder than my 2 jensen amps?
 
Originally posted by Eighty2Regal
how do u have those 6 by 9's mounted, mine are laying in my trunk cause i blew my 4 by 10's yesterday and I no longer have the 4 by 10 carriers i threw them away by accident. How do you get the 6 by 9's to fit back there? What size u have in the front 3-3 1/2???

I used the adaptors to mount the 6x9's in the back and I have 3.5" in the dash. I can't member what the bass blockers are clipped at but It made a big difference. I can not distort the lil 3.5" with that blockers in..
 
Originally posted by Eighty2Regal
Audiowizard I am especially curious of what kinda components you have. Do you use bass blockers or anything?

1) Alpine CRA-1656sp CD/tuner controller.
2) BBE sound processor.
3) Alpine AI-net 12 disc changer.
4) 2 fan cooled Earthquake 4300s w/built in adj. w-overs.
5) Interstate megatron (GN battery).
6) Stinger gell cell 800 CCA battery (audio system)
7) 160 amp alt w/ stinger battery isolater.
8) 2 Brax 1 farad stiffening capacitors.
9) all Earthquake 4 AWG and 8 AWG.
10) 2 circuit breakers (1 front, 1 rear).
11) 2 a/d/s Reference tweeters (door pod).
12) 2 a/d/s Reference 4" mids (door pod).
13) 2 a/d/s Reference 6.5 mid bass (door pod).
14) 2 a/d/s Reference 3.5 coaxial (rear fill).
15) 2 a/d/s Reference 10" subs (trunk area)
16) 1 ported enclosure .60 per sub w/ dual 3" x 13" ports.

No need for bass blockers, everything is electronically crossed over and tuned properly.
 
be-regal,
The manufacturer that I got these from dont make them anymore but I can build a very close copy of them with the grill cloth covers for about $200.00 roughly. Vinyl and fiberglass is one of my specialties :)
 
89 TTA -
Sony CDX-C910 es cd/tuner
Sony CDX-91 es 10 disk changer
Pioneer CDX M40 (6 disk changer for old style magazines)
Pioneer DEX M3000 changer controller
Sony XDP-U50D digital surround processor
Audio Control Line Driver
Audio Control Epicenter
HiFonics series VIII Plato (10 band parametric eq)
HiFonics series VIII Calipso crossover
HiFonics series VII Atlas (subs)
HiFonics series VII Thor (all 6 front mids)
HiFonics series VII Odin (all rear mids)
HiFonics series VII Jupitor (all 6 tweeters)
2 Orion XTR 10 custom tri-chamber bandpass - plexiglass top
Boston Pro 6.2 components (6" - doors and tweeter - dash)
JBL 5 1/4" midranges (kick panel pod)
Kicker ND25 tweeters (kick panel pod)
(2 pair) Orion XTR 4 (dash and rear)
Boston 8" subs (can't remember model # from 1988) (rear)

Custom built interface to use factory radio controls
with Sony CDX-C910 (1995)

Second battery (Optima yellow top) under drivers side
fender (1997)

87 GN-
Sony CDX-C910 es cd/tuner
Sony CDX-91 es 10 disk changer
Sony XDP 210EQ es 21 band digital eq
HiFonics series VII Gemini (everything but subs)
HiFonics series VII Odin (subs)
(2) Orion XTR 10 custom tri-chanber bandpass
Infinity Kappa 3.5 (dash)
Infinity 60m (doors)
Vifa 4" coaxial (rear)
 
ok with my settings
bass 0
treble 0
eq low -1
eq mid +1
eq high +6
sla +1
rear faded 7

my system sounds nice and clear and I can hear the words and the right and left channel are nice and seperated like I like them to sound.
The only problem is the bass isnt as strong as i like.
 
Pioneer CD Head unit up front, mosfet 45x2 power

Pioneer 3 1/2 in the front... w/bass blockers

Pioneer 4 way 6x9's in the rear deck
Amplified by a pioneer 80x2 amp...

Two Sony Expload (good series), 10" subwoofers in bad pass box in the trunk.
Amplified by a 150x2 Sony Competetion Amp. Peaks at 300x2

750 Watt Amplifier Hook up kit. 4 gauge power wire.

Distributor, (one power wire in two power wires out)

500 Watt Farad Cap

Trunk is Partially Dynomatted :)
 
1) Pioneer Premier P1R
2) 5.25" components in reinforced q-forms
3)Lanzar DC series 8" for midbass
4)Lanzar DC 15" sub
5)Lanzar OptiDrive2150 - for sub
6)Sherwood 100x4 for comp. and 8"s
7)2 - 1F caps
 
my setup

Headunit: JVC KD-SH99 MP3 playing headunit
Kick-pods: MB Quart RKC-116 6.5" coaxial drivers on MB Quart passive crossovers, powered by head unit for now...awaiting purchase of another Kicker amp

Subs: JL 10W1-4 in self-built MDF sealed wedge enclosure, powered by a Kicker ZR240, bridged 2-ohm with headunit and SWX crossover modules set to 100Hz

Despite needing some more sound deadener in places, I get great bass up front and while I'm still working on the building of my kick pods, so far the aiming is almost done and my front stage is ontop of the dash.

...getting there...just like the rest of the car ;)
 
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