Looking at t-type tomorrow - need tips

[kstagger]

When I was a young lad - I used to own a beatup 1968 firebird. Once the muscle car bug bites you - it is hard to give it up. After college, getting married, buying a home, and having a son to raise - I finally have the money tucked away to buy something fun and fast again.

The wife put the kobosh on alot of the 60s cars I looked at - mostly because they lack modern amenities (and shoulder belts). She doesn't want me to buy a corvette since there is no place to put the baby seat. And hey - I admit at age 31 I like a little comfort - being driven around in Olds 98s and cadillacs by my dad.

Then I saw a Grand National and memories of the 80s came back when these were the king of the hill (and still are in my book). I have always liked the body design and the more I read, the more I was impressed.

Anyways - I want to get a T-type for myself. There is one for sale that I'm going to look at tomorrow. Anything I should be looking for when I test drive and look under the hood? This car has been for sale for quite awhile and the price has been getting lower - which makes me wonder why no one has bought it - of course the economy hasn't been the healthiest lately - it seems like alot of people aren't buying cool cars again.

thanks for your time.

kstagger

 

[Topjimmy]

Rust, Rust, Rust. Make sure you have a solid foundation to work with. Take your creeper or blanket and a flashlight and give that baby a cavity search. After this much time, the "red-rash" can be everywhere.

HTH Jim

 

[tim87tr]

Try this buyers guide:
http://www.gnttype.org/general/buyguide.html

Another good idea is to take someone with you familiar with the cars. If you do not know someone, search around your area via this link:
http://www.gnttype.org/members/name.html

If someone was not interested in checking out a car for you, they would say. Most TR owners like to look at cars anyway, and someone close to your location probably knows the car. Or just work out a $$ deal with them on an inspection if you are not sure about the car.

And especially since you live in a northern climate, what Topjimmy said, rust. Look at the bottom inside of the doors and inside lip of the trunk. You listed Grand Rapids, I'm assuming Michigan. My brother lives north of Holland, MI.

 

[MyWE4]

Take some time and read this......

http://www.gnttype.org/general/buyguide.html

good luck with your hunting!!

Chris

 

[MyWE4]

boy!! if I only did not get that cup of coffee when I was typing!!!!

hehe
Chris

 

[zam70]

Here's a run down of what I do when purchasing a used car.

First, before you even look at a car, decide how much you are willing to pay, then decide, for that amount of money, how much work you are willing to put into the car. I always redo everything on the cars I buy (and I mean everything) so I always figure out max budget for purchase + max budget for redo = how much I have invested. If you don't want to do any work, your purchase budget should be fairly high.

Inspection: Wear clothes you don't mind getting dirty.
When first arriving look under the car BEFORE it is moved or started. Look for oil spots and figure out where they came from (new or old as well) look at the bottom of the rear brake drums, wet = bad wheel cylinders. small amounts of oil from mechanical areas shouldn't be a surprise...these cars are old. Make mental notes.

Pop the hood and feel the engine...is it already warm/hot? If so it might have been started and warmed up to hide a cold start problem. Again look for oil leaks or worn/broken/missing items. Check anti freeze... more mental notes. Beware of a freshly over cleaned engine. Don't avoid it, just look it over carefully.

Go to the back of the car so you can see the exhaust. Have some one start the car and watch the tail pipe. When it starts look for any smoke...blue = oil (valve seals) white = anti freeze (numerous bad things) black = fuel (minor to no problems). Let it just sit and idle...go to the front and listen to the engine. Some noise are fine, turbo 6s are not the quietest running engines. note if the smoke goes away or stays, gets worse/better etc...note idle quality...let it idle until the cooling fans kick on and make sure they shut off as well. (be patient, this can take awhile) Ask questions while waiting...do ust ask "what" by "Why"

Test drive:
If you're still interested, hop in for a drive. (Radio OFF) Put the shifter into each gear (r n d) see how it engages, listen for weird noises. Take off normally, nice and smooth...feel the shifts...do they snap from one to the other or kinda fall from one to the other (snap GOOD, fall or slip...could ust be an adjustment or might need some work). Now from a roll with LOTS OF OPEN SPACE IN FRONT OF YOU....Hammer it...to the floor. A good running car will down shift quickly with a snap, accelerate a little soft (like a normal V6) then Surprise you when the turbo comes on.(Nothing like your first drive in a good running Turbo Regal) Note how it accelerates. Should be strong and smooth...no bucking hiccuping or anything. If it runs great look at the speedometer and be surprised at how fast you are going in such a short time (these things sneak up on you)...lighten your grip a little on the steering wheel and hit the brakes hard (not lock up)....note if it pulls, chatters or does anything other than slow down smooth and straight. Go pull some figure 8s in a parking lot and listen for noises etc...take notes, end of test drive.

BODY:
Look for rust...inside bottom of doors, trunk lip, floor boards, rear frame rails (arch over axle) etc...surface rust is easily repaired, if there are bubbles in the paint = rust. Personally, Unless you are a body man, I'd avoid a car with any rust through (holes) in exterior panels. It only gets worse and rust is hard to stop. Note panel alignment (fairly even gaps), does the car sit fairly level etc...Look for waves or dents in the panels.


Interior: This is easy - nice or ragged out, does everything work? Interiors are easy and fairly inexpensive to freshen up (except the steering wheel). Look at the odometer...does it reflect the condition of the interior? Low mileage with a ragged interior means something is WRONG.

Reinspect the engine/trans for leaks. start again to see how it hot starts...take notes.

Now go over everything, figure out what needs fixed, what you can live with and if it all falls into budget. Look at more than one car...look at a bunch...even if they AREN'T for sale. This will familiarize the car. If there is anyway, get together with someone from this board. Buncho nice people who know these cars...I'm sure there's someone who'd be happy to help. If in doubt, post here.

Check the for sale section here...always some nice ones there. There is a pretty nice t-type here in town but they want to much for it. A guy I know just sold a nice WE4 at BG for a steal. BE PATIENT.

When I bought my WE4, I set my purchase budget at $5,000 for a rust free decent running car (tough one...my budget was tight). I finally found one 1600 miles away but it was what I wanted and fit what I was looking for. Good luck and let us know if you have any questios, we'll be happy to help (after all, we all started where you're at! well, most of us)

 

[Berman]

If it's got t-tops, walk away. T-top cars have all kind of problems with rust, squeaks, etc. Don't make a mistake like I did with my 1st turbo regal. I got hosed.

If there is any more rust than a little bit on the trunk or bottom of the doors, RUN don't walk, away. These cars have major rust problems. Let me tell you about the t-top car I bought. The doors and trunklid were rusty, although no worse than normal. The car ran and drove. I thought I was getting a deal for $3k.

Well in my excitement, I was so stupid I only glanced under the t-tops, didn't inspect very well. When I get the thing home, my friends and I start ripping into it (needed a new turbo, new wathrstripping, and some other stuff). Well it turns out, the top corners of the car were so rusted, they were GONE underneath the t-top sheet metal. GONE. Not only that, but looking into the window frame (which you shouldn't be able to look into, but rust had destroyed so much you could look in) it was completely rusted inside.

Then the next ride I take in the thing, the transmission starts slamming. Not good. Then the engine starts knocking. Really badly.

So don't be a moron like me. Thankfully I got out of that car without losing my ass by trading it + money for my nice t-type. RUN from rust, and RUN from t-tops.

 

[zam70]

Not all t-tops are bad. They are easily adusted but do check thouroughly for rust. Mine, thankfully only has minor surface rust that cam right off with a wire wheel.

 

[kstagger]

thank you everyone - will let you know how it goes.
Been lurking on this site for a few months and have been enjoying it alot.

kstagger

 

[KENNE-BILL]

A few other things to check for also is the upper control arm bushing near the down pipe - usually non-existent from heat. Check the area directly behind the windshield wiper motor on the fire-wall, there should be a small opening where water that comes off the windshield and cowling flushes through - it sometimes gets clogged with debris and dirt causing water to puddle resulting in rust. Although the interior may appear dry, lift all four floor mats and feel for moisture on the carpet indicating water leaks - speaking from personal experience on this one.