Lots of vacuum brake issues...

[Welby]

It's been almost a year since I've had the car, and I figured I better finally look into my crappy brakes. Car has a vacuum conversion, and the brakes don't seem to grab well at all, the pedal is very hard, and sometimes I have to pretty much stand on them to get the car to slow down. Locking them up is completely impossible.
Also, they seem to be sticking/binding alot. I'll get home and I can smell the front brakes due to constant friction. I notice that when I sit at a light or anywhere when I'm stopped for a minute, that the pedal seems to sink in some and stays there. I let off of the brake and the car won't move, the brakes are still applied and the brake light stays on. After about 7 or 8 seconds the brake will release itself. A few times I've actually had to put my foot under the pedal and pull it back up
The brakes are Teed into the PCV valve which I know needs fixed, and the fluid seems dirty, like there are small chunks of.... something floating in it. Seems kind of watery too. Any good links on how to bleed the master cylinder or flush out the whole system and start fresh??

EDIT: Car has newer rotors, calipers,pads, drums and rear shoes on it.

Thanks in advance.
I've had with these brakes and need to sort it out before I drive into the back of a garbage truck

 

[bruce]

Car has a vacuum conversion, and the brakes don't seem to grab well at all, the pedal is very hard, and sometimes I have to pretty much stand on them to get the car to slow down. Locking them up is completely impossible.

I notice that when I sit at a light or anywhere when I'm stopped for a minute, that the pedal seems to sink in some and stays there. I let off of the brake and the car won't move, the brakes are still applied and the brake light stays on. After about 7 or 8 seconds the brake will release itself. A few times I've actually had to put my foot under the pedal and pull it back up

The brakes are Teed into the PCV valve which I know needs fixed, and the fluid seems dirty, like there are small chunks of.... something floating in it. Seems kind of watery too. Any good links on how to bleed the master cylinder or flush out the whole system and start fresh??

EDIT: Car has newer rotors, calipers,pads, drums and rear shoes on it.

Being able to readily lock up the brakes, BTW, is signs of a poorly designed setup. It's only in the last phase of a 100% panic stop, that MAYBE a tire *locks up*.

It sounds like both the Master Cylinder, and booster are dead.

Yes, and immediately *single* source the vacuum line...

Might as well throw some AN type brake lines on it...

 

[Red Regal T]

Can't say for sure what exactly the problem, but from what you have described so far, I'd first, replace the master cylinder. They're pretty inexpensive. Then, you can bleed out all the dirty fluid. Keep bleeding the fluid through until it runs clear. Also, sounds like the front brakes are doing all the stopping and overheating causing the sticking. Make sure your back brakes are adjusted close to the drum. Adjust them with the drum off to a point where it is a tight fit to put the drum back on. Going to a TTA vacuum block may help your booster to work better. Make sure you have no vacuum leaks, indicated by a leaking air sound.

 

[Welby]

Thanks for the tips. I'm not really looking to "lock them up", it's just the only way i could describe that it feels like I have wood blocks for brake pads, there's just no grab to them

As far as the master cylinder, would I just pick one up for a plain jane N/A Regal? V6? V8? Does it matter? I'll buy one this weekend and start digging into it.

Thanks again

 

[bruce]

As far as the master cylinder, would I just pick one up for a plain jane N/A Regal? V6? V8? Does it matter? I'll buy one this weekend and start digging into it.

No difference because of engine size. The 83 are best, if you can actually get a 83. Most everyone considers them as all being the same. The difference is slight, but I had real good luck with that particular one.

Doing the brake lines, will make a noticeable difference. More then you might imagine.

 

[Red Regal T]

Just an NA master cylinder. Visually, I've seen no difference for any 83 thru 87 G-body. Today, they're also selling cast iron replacements. For weight and appearance, try to get an aluminum one. While one store may sell the cast iron unit, another will have the aluminum one. You may have to look around.

I don't know if you bought any type of front performance pad, or went for the economy item. I always used to get the cheapy ones, but found a significant difference in stopping with performance pads.

Incidently, if after replacing the master cylinder, and determining no vacuum leak in your booster, if your pedal still feels hard, the booster is defective. Usually a hard pedal would indicate a bad booster.

 

[85HOT-T]

Do you have any rubber hosses besides the ones going to your calipers. Sounds like you have a piece(s) of hose blocking flow in both directions.

 

[dgreene]

Also, they seem to be sticking/binding alot. I'll get home and I can smell the front brakes due to constant friction. I notice that when I sit at a light or anywhere when I'm stopped for a minute, that the pedal seems to sink in some and stays there. I let off of the brake and the car won't move, the brakes are still applied and the brake light stays on. After about 7 or 8 seconds the brake will release itself

Bruce is correct. Change your front brake lines. I've seen this many times on GM cars including one of my GN's. You should also change the MC as well. "Dirty" brake fluid kills MC's very quickly. Once these two things are done be sure to get all the old fluid bled out and make sure those rears are adjusted correctly. If the fronts have been damaged from the heat, you should change those pads while you're at it.


These things should get you back on track.

 

[Slo86GN]

Sounds like what happened when my booster went bad......brake pedal was hard as a rock, but at least I still had brakes. I picked up a new one for a N/A Regal and it works great. Mine just suddenly died too.....seal on the rod side went bad....could hear the hiss of a leak on when braking, plus the car would stumble at idle when you mashed the pedal due to the leak.