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Machine work required on new stroker kits?

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Sleeper-6

Active Member
Joined
May 25, 2001
Messages
1,224
Like the title says, what have been your experiences with any of the stroker kits out there now. I realize that the block will possibly need some grinding to make room for everything and of course all the usual work required when installing a new crank.
How have the rotating assemblies been? Have the rod bearing clearances, side play in the rods, etc., all been to spec or have the required further attention.
How has the balance been, Good as shipped or have they required attention from the machine shop?
Thanks in advance.
 
uh.... yea.

not a drop in deal,
block requires clearencing, (alot) rods will hit big cams,
depending rod length, pistons might need some help,
radius on most cranks is very large, may require chamfering of rod bearings,
some cranks have been on the high side of tolerance,
balance?? tell you next week,
have a experienced machinest set this up for you,
 
good call on having a experienced machinest seting it up for you. i think you got that covered cruzn :)
 
I haven't seen the bill yet

may require heart pills afterwards lol
 
With everything you did i wouldnt want to see the bill either. anyways it shouldnt be to bad. i know mine is cheap compared to yours ;) the only thing im wondering is how much there going to charge to port the hell out of my intake. its going to need alot of work and they have never done one before. i guess we will see. that intake will either make or brake my setup so i hope the put alot of time and work into it. i would rather spend alot of money on it now and get it done right then have to pull it off and have them work on it again.
 
not a drop in deal,
block requires clearencing, (alot) rods will hit big cams,
depending rod length, pistons might need some help,
radius on most cranks is very large, may require chamfering of rod bearings,
some cranks have been on the high side of tolerance,
balance?? tell you next week,
have a experienced machinest set this up for you,

I am putting one together now for a friend and I had to get the crank rod journals cut .010" to reduce the radius and to get them to fall into spec. I also had Kenny D. chamfer both rod and main journals. Side clearance is .009" and I had to clearance the block in the oil pickup area. Also I had some issues installing the JW Wheel flexplate. Looks like the area on the crank that the flexplate fits over is tapered, so the plate will not sit flush against the flange (where the plate bolts to) on the crank.
Jeff
 
I had the same issues

ended up cutting crank 010 under, and cut flywheel flange too !
need to sleeve oil gallery in crankcase, and run small base circle cam,
after cutting crank ran std width rod bearings, no chamfer.
hope this setup will make at least 250 horse power!
 
ended up cutting crank 010 under, and cut flywheel flange too !
need to sleeve oil gallery in crankcase, and run small base circle cam,
after cutting crank ran std width rod bearings, no chamfer.
hope this setup will make at least 250 horse power!

:rolleyes:
 
ended up cutting crank 010 under, and cut flywheel flange too !
need to sleeve oil gallery in crankcase, and run small base circle cam,
after cutting crank ran std width rod bearings, no chamfer.
hope this setup will make at least 250 horse power!

what make was the crank ? :)
 
...mine isnt a stroker kit but all aftermarket internals basically the same...cat crank k1 rods , diamond pistons all kinds of fitment issues...2300 at the machine shop but that included all balancing, .20 over hone and bore, magnafluxing block, crank etc...girdle fitment on and on...noah.
 
small base circle cam.

comp cams makes em, when you special order a cam ( $$$$$$) they'll do what ever you want,
 
So on the new crank you had it turned 10 under??

Curious why you didn't get a new one sent out to ya??
 
I had already counted on clearencing the block.
I have read about the need to chamfer the rod bearings. Does anyone have a picture of what a set of bearings look like after this is done?
I did plan on having the block machined to fit the new crank. Since I do plan on getting it girdled it's going to need a line hone at a minimum anyway.
I have spoken with the machinist and he is willing to double check all the bearing clearances for me before final assembly.
For those of you that have done this, What kit did you use?

I'm just trying to get a good idea of what's ahead of me.
 
So on the new crank you had it turned 10 under??

Curious why you didn't get a new one sent out to ya??

The machinist had the crank balanced before this issue was discovered. I asked the machinist to check the crank before anything was done so if there was any issues I could send it back but this did not happen. If I had to do it over, I would have taken the crank directly over to a shop that specializes in crankshafts.
Jeff
 
Both of the above issues happened to me on several non stroker steel Eagle cranks. The flywheel problem was not an issue, some minor porting on the flywheel and it was all good. The cranks all had to go 10 under. I would have thought by now this would have been corrected.
 
Both of the above issues happened to me on several non stroker steel Eagle cranks. The flywheel problem was not an issue, some minor porting on the flywheel and it was all good. The cranks all had to go 10 under. I would have thought by now this would have been corrected.

Louie,
That is how I handled the flywheel issue. It just caught me by surprise.
Jeff
 
ditto here

coulda sent it back , but went ahead and turned it, and cut the flywheel flange .
I spoke to Mike at full throttle, he would exchange it, but was my choice to use the one I had, No problems what so ever with Mike , he is good on his word.
 
Definately not a drop in....

My block was clearanced in a couple places,1398CH rod bearings had to be chanmfered even more, #2/#4 rods hit camshaft (This is a 3.625 CAT crank and 5.97 SCAT rods)crank girdle scraper and girdle clearanced in a few spots etc....
The outcome is awesome though. Car pulls much harder than before.
 
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