You can type here any text you want

MAF Question? How to tell if its Turbo or NA

Welcome!

By registering with us, you'll be able to discuss, share and private message with other members of our community.

SignUp Now!

turbohye

Nuclear Reactor
Joined
Apr 19, 2003
Messages
390
Hey Guys thanks in advance for any help.
About a month ago I was throwing a MAF code so I replaced it from a unit at Advance Auto parts (roughly 80 bucks). Installed it, reset the ecu, code went away and drove it around and no more bucking!

Problem is that It almost seems that I have a SH*Tload of turbo lag but It cant be that. When Steve V rebuilt my motor we stepped down from the damagd TA-49 to a stock turbo. My scanmaster results look fine but I noticed that the aftermarket MAF tapers near the middle and then flares out on both ends and Im thinking this might be the wrong MAF. I get very little knock (as shown on the ScanMaster) and compared to the straight shot Stock MAF it seems that this one is the wrong one just by judging the shape of it. Ever since the install I have had to push that gas peddle pretty far down in order for it to build any boost and on full throttle the Scan master would bounce somewhere between 010, 070, and 100 but it would stay in the lows and I might get .5 of knock retard at 15 pounds. Then for example at the next light I will get on the gas again and the car would boost with almost no LAG at all.!?!? :mad:

Well today going to the base I noticed that While I was cruising the O2's on the SM were acting up (cruising) and then my car thows a code 45 (rich O2) :mad: You guys think my O2 is bad from the two months of driving with that bad MAF? The Check engine light went away after about a minute and everything was fine. Brand new ECU too. :confused:

Is there a serial number or any identifier on the MAFs that should be identical?

I will call advance tomorrow to validate the MAF as a Turbo Buick MAF and not something else. While I am at it I will replace the O2.

Another thing that might help....At stop lights on a fully warm engine, the O2s on the scan master would stick at 000 and there's no movement. However on a brand new O2 sensor instal in march the O2s would bounce normally on idle and the car would be great. THAT AND MY IDLE SUCKS :eek: .. I think the O2 is trash huh? :redface:

Again thanks in advance. :rolleyes:

Me right now trying to figure this out.... :mad:
Me mad at the car parts guy for giving me the wrong product.. :mad:
Me walking away happy with the correct part.. :smile:
 
The Denso O2 sensors www.sparkplugs.com are said to be the best for the Buicks. I was once told that I should only buy an AC Delco brand MAF sensor due to the aftermarket ones not being calibrated quite the same. I am looking at getting the Translator + and the LS1 MAF sensor which is 3.5". I would get the O2 sensor and try a AC Delco MAF. See if you can return the aftermarket one.
 
OK i will give it a try. Thanks for the info about the AC units. I still have the box in my car. Ill check it later
 
Usually oxygen sensors go out on the rich side. I would replace the 02 sensor and go from there. If the car was running too rich then that would definatly hurt the boost building and cause the rest of your problems. Swap out that 02 sensor and you should be good. The maf wouldn't have hurt the 02 sensor. Also the denso 02 is an excellent replacement.

I bet you are getting horrible fuel mileage too... ;)
 
Back
Top