MAF/Translator AF #'s


Cat&wife post starter
May 26, 2001
About 1/2 throttle my 3" LT1 MAF and Translator combo is hitting 255. I put it in park and reved it kind hard and it hit 255 and 242 on Scanmaster. I am also getting a little popping (lot less than before) and hesitation at 10-14lbs boost. Just triple checked all the connections and wires. My O2 on the Scanmaster is staying high #'s 700-800's and not cycling down to 100-200's like usual and the car is not going into closed loop either. Other Scanmaster #'s look good except cc (which aren't really moving).
If your CC's are slowing up...or at a standstill...then I'd say your 02 sensor has gone south.
3"lt1 maf

I had the same problem. I started with the full throttle set up translator and plastic new style maf ran great. Bought a factory style 3"lt1 maf put it on ran good until you went to wot and the car would pop and buck, and I noticed 255 af reading on the scanmaster way sooner with the factory maf, started to take fuel out thru the chip and It clean up some! Put the black plastic 3"maf back on runs like a champ! Thinking the original style maf to rich too soon. Hope this helps:biggrin:
Well, doing some Christmas research and found out the the dip switches on the Translator (remove the 4 little screws on the front) must be adjusted for my 3" LT1 sensor AND for my TurboTweak (Eric's) chip. I guess I was so anticipating a good running car that I ASSumed that it was 100% plug and play (when it is really 99% plug and play) and didn't bother to read the whole directions/booklet:eek: The TurboTweak website also states that it will be open loop in idle and that the O2's will settle at the 700-800 range. With my old stock MAF I could have sworn that at idle most times it would go into closed loop (non-flashing . on ScanMaster) and the cc's would definitely cycle at idle back and forth between the 100-200 range to the 700-800 range.
Oh well when this Blizzard stops and the roads are somewhat clear, I will do some WOT testing.
If memory serves...the dip swtiches are set to on on on off...for the LT1 and LS1. I had to make a change to the base knob when I went to the Z06 MAF...but the dip switches remained the same.
Changed the dip switches and turned the little knob to 3 for my settings and all is well. Car is running very well-no popping and 255 WOT on AF.

My open loop is a separate problem because I just changed the thermostat to a 160* Kirban one and the car still cycles to 145-150* sometimes after the thermostat opens. It is really cold here and I do have a serious cooling system but I guess I have a thermostat that opens too soon:mad: I have read on this site that the engine coolant should not be less than 160* with a 160* thermostat, but it is. Oh well, I guess I'll have to find some cardboard:rolleyes: and then change over to a 180* thermostat and chip in the future.