Maf translator

[Pronto]

Turn the 6* advanced back to 0 and see what happens.

 

[msboost]

The car runs great but I want to be safe on my settings. Thanks

what do you thank on the settings in the picture I sent you

Turn the 6* advanced back to 0 and see what happens.

on both idle and WOT. when I do it should I turn the key to on or do it before i turn the key on

 

[Pronto]

I would turn the extra advance back to 0 and the WOT retard back to 0. I don't know what the Extender chip is normally burned to but most street chips pull some timing at WOT in third and forth gear so the extra retard is probably not needed. You have higher octane gas in and it's still pinging (not good) with that much advance. Adjust the box then start it and drive it lightly and see how it feels. Do you have a Scanmaster? If so and you see knock get out of it right away.

 

[msboost]

I would turn the extra advance back to 0 and the WOT retard back to 0. I don't know what the Extender chip is normally burned to but most street chips pull some timing at WOT in third and forth gear so the extra retard is probably not needed. You have higher octane gas in and it's still pinging (not good) with that much advance. Adjust the box then start it and drive it lightly and see how it feels. Do you have a Scanmaster? If so and you see knock get out of it right away.

I have a scanmaster but where does it show knock

 

[Pronto]

When the car is turned on and the Scanmaster starts up the numbers on the left is the O2 millivolts. On the right side of the screen is the knock retard. Your goal is no knock retard. Knock retard is the ecm's attempt to save your engine from destroying itself from detenation that it hears by way of the knock sensor on the back of the block.
Learn about the Scanmaster here:
http://www.vortexbuicks-etc.com/Scantool_Readings.htm
Also in other parts of the website is lots of info on tuning, racing etc.

 

[msboost]

When the car is turned on and the Scanmaster starts up the numbers on the left is the O2 millivolts. On the right side of the screen is the knock retard. Your goal is no knock retard. Knock retard is the ecm's attempt to save your engine from destroying itself from detenation that it hears by way of the knock sensor on the back of the block.
Learn about the Scanmaster here:
http://www.vortexbuicks-etc.com/Scantool_Readings.htm
Also in other parts of the website is lots of info on tuning, racing etc.

The right side has dashes so I hope that's good. I guess went I say knock its more of a pinging sound. I know they are the same.

When the car is turned on and the Scanmaster starts up the numbers on the left is the O2 millivolts. On the right side of the screen is the knock retard. Your goal is no knock retard. Knock retard is the ecm's attempt to save your engine from destroying itself from detenation that it hears by way of the knock sensor on the back of the block.
Learn about the Scanmaster here:
http://www.vortexbuicks-etc.com/Scantool_Readings.htm
Also in other parts of the website is lots of info on tuning, racing etc.

 

[msboost]

The scanmaster has dashes on the right side. hope thats good. it's more of a ping then knock which is close to the same. I decoded the Extender Chip and 1st gear is at 23 degree and high gear is 21. so you are right on turning the box down. Should I leave the fuel along. Thanks for all your help.

 

[Pronto]

During the "pinging" sounds you should see numbers on the right side. If you can hear pinging that is not good!.

 

[Crazi]

I use the maft pro with the extender chip. I use it in translator mode. I also have closed loop boost control. I would be hard pressed to trade the set up. Using in translator mode requires no normal driving tuning, and I can easily make WOT fueling and timing adjustments. With the wideband I also have closed loop WOT A/F control. You have to do a little bit of studying to get it set up and use it, but very powerful tuning tool.

Agree 100% but I like tweaking and tuning.

 

[msboost]

I have a translator plus that is a 2001 year. It has 4 dip switches and 4 dials. I put a new extender chip in yesterday. That is programmed for 93 octane and without Alky. The car started great and drove good but if I get on it hard it will ping. I am not sure what I should set the dials to with this chip. Also I have an adjustable boost rod. Should u adjust that to slip on or pull it some to get it on which I know will increase boost. Thanks in advance.

 

[TurboBob]

what chip number, is your timing harness connected, what are the dials set to in the translator, how much boost are you running?

Bob

 

[msboost]

what chip number, is your timing harness connected, what are the dials set to in the translator, how much boost are you running?

Bob

Bob I have the translator plus which is around a 2001 year wis

what chip number, is your timing harness connected, what are the dials set to in the translator, how much boost are you running?

Bob

 

[msboost]

Bob my email got messed up so I am writing this one and hope it reaches you. The timing harness is connected. I just received my new chip because I removed the old SMC Alky system that was leaking and the chip was set up for that. Now the new one is BSL34AOFA that translator plus is set up like this. The dip switches are set in this order 1,2 are on and 3 and 4 are off. The 4 dials are set like this base 4 wot E and spark is set base 3 and wot E. The car runs good but under heavy throttle it will start to ping. I adjusted the waste gate rod to where you have to pull it over to connect it on. I think the dials are not set the right way. I went from a chip that was set up for Alky and 98 octane to no Alky and 93 octane.

 

[TurboDave]

Based on what I'm seeing you need to make a few changes to get a base line squared away. The MAF BASE is quite rich at a setting of 4 and that's all being pulled out by the MAF WOT switch. Same is true with the timing. Spark BASE is adding 6 degrees !!!! and only 4 being pulled out with the WOT switch.

1. The SPARK BASE effects timing across the entire range. My recommendation is to set it to ZERO
2. With the spark base set to zero, set the SPARK WOT switch to zero for now to see how these two adjustments affect the pinging. Shouild recude or eliminate it.

3. Set MAF WOT to zero to fatten up the higher load area. Might end up too fat and if so, you can pull some fuel out by reducing the MAF BASE knob from 4 to something of a lesser vaule.

Your chip is set up for timing of 19/17, so if you zero'd both spark switches that's where you'll be for wot timing. A good safe set of numbers.

With all those adjustments tuning can get a bit busy, but stay with it.

 

[Pronto]

I would think if you have a new chip burned for your mods minus the alky then the tune should be pretty close. Like TurboDave says, zero out the timing and MAF. Let the chip do it job and see what's happening.

 

[msboost]

Thanks for the info. I will try this but I can't road test as we have 16" of snow coming. I have a few more questions. 1) the waste gate rod adjustment should slip on or pull on it a little which will increase the boost. 2) are the dip switches in the right spot.

 

[TurboBob]

the dip switches are right for an extender chip.

the MAF base is set to match your MAF, with a 3" MAF set it to 3 for starters.

how much boost are you running? The tighter the tension on the rod, the higher the boost will be. on the RJC, when you adjust it shorter, it will raise your boost. You may want to take the RJC out for now, and get your boost down where it needs to be for 93 octane. Start low, and work your way up.

turn it down before you break something.

Bob

 

[msboost]

15 to 16 boost. I have the controller screwed all the way out. I think the rod is tight so I will set it to slip on. So on your earlier email you said to set the dials to zero but now it should go MAF 3 & 0 Spark 0 & 0. Thanks for your help.