Media Blasting For Less

[MannyFr35h]

Stop paying high prices. We will do complete cars starting at $499! Prices for individual parts are very affordable. We are a resto/rod shop and we know how to treat your metal.

>complete paint shop for after care (we spray a variety of coatings including powder coating)

>21' by 25' room handles anything you have

>sandwiched between 190, 75, and Hwy30

>General prices (starting at): fenders $30
doors $40
decklid $40
hoods $75
wheel $15

Call or email for any questions and to get scheduled in. Thanks for looking...

972 442-9793
Tyler Pryor
North Texas Customs
Wylie, TX 75098

 

[Danster]

What is the address? I'm down in Murphy and I want to have a few items powder coated.

Dannyo

 

[BandAid]

Is it true that with media blasting ,the car doesn't need to be primed right a way since the media doesn't remove the zinc coating and the car will not rust,,thats what I was told be the mediablaster guy here

 

[MannyFr35h]

Media blasting encompasses a variety of grits and two "schools" of process.
There is abrasive and non-abrasive blasting. Both should achieve the same goal, that is to remove the surface coating of the given object, and both have their own advantages and limitations. Nether process will give corrosion protection (except for soda) because you are trying to take the car down to bare steel.

Abrasive blasting is just that, using abrasives to eliminate the coating. Grits used are coal slag, aluminum oxide, garnet, sand, etc...Sand should NEVER be used due to its high silica content. Abrasive blasting is the ONLY way to truly remove rust using the blasting method of removal. Since the grits are abrasive the grit will dig into the metal a little and be able to get out the rust that is in the "profile" of the metal.

Non-abrasive blasting uses media that is not harsh and will not remove trace amounts of steel. Such media is cob, shells, soda, and plastic. Since these medias are non-abrasive they will never be able to remove all rust. These materials are valuable in the sense that they won't remove metal to an already compromised panel (such as a 29 ford found in a river bed).

Soda blasting, in my mind, should not be used in our hobby because it leaves a caustic residue. That is why a soda blasted car can be left to the elements for awhile without flash rust forming. This residue must be neutralized or it may cause problems with the paint coat down the road.

Warped panels that blasting is famous for is all in the operators error. Its not heat that does the damage so as much as the shot peening effect caused by heavy grit hitting the panel at high velocity. People will swear to you that non-abrasive blasting is the only way to go, but I have personally seen panels damaged by shells or corn cob. The solution is to have high volume at low pressure with fine grit. High volume equals large amounts of CFMs, which equals a massive air compressor...

And on and on and on....

We are located in Wylie at 101b Kristen Ct