A few days ago, Autozone was having a sale Mobil 1 Synthetic Advances (5 quart jug) and Mobile 1 filter for $32.99. I had a quart of the same oil at home, so I bought the addition 5 quarts. 10W 30. Now the question is, has anyone ever used a M209 filter. It's a Mobile 1 Extended Performance and last 15k miles. I know it is fresh synthetic oil, but my oil pressure when I started my car was 80psi. This was with just the 5Q in it. I drove it around a couple of blocks come home and put the in park. The coolant temp was 165 or so, bu the pressure was still at 40psi. Just a bench mark last year when I changed my oil, it was cold and the pressure was at 40psi. It doubled this year. Exact same setup, I was wondering if the M209 Mobil filter was the problem. I took it our and compared it to the PF52 and it was the length, the Mobil 1 had a couple more thread where bolted on, but that was about it. Just wondering it it could be the filter itself or of I over tightened it. I guess a cheap PF52 could be installed to see if that is the issue.
Mobil 1 - M209 Oil Filter
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novaderrik
Well-Known Member
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more oil pressure with nothing but a filter change is a good thing- it means that the filter is actually filtering oil instead of just bypassing it.
i always- always- see more oil pressure with a good name brand filter like a Wix/NAPA Gold compared to a cheapie like Fram or AC Delco.
i always- always- see more oil pressure with a good name brand filter like a Wix/NAPA Gold compared to a cheapie like Fram or AC Delco.
Mobil 1 filters are the same as KN filters, just have different labels. Three best filters to use are KN, WIX, and BALDWIN. If you have the biggie oil filter setup, which I see you don't, that is something I recommend, the KN (MOBIL 1) part# 2003 (203) and WIX is 1049. Cant remember baldwin of the top of my head. Recommendation of a biggie filter setup has to benefits using a quality filter, you get almost a half quart of oil and you have more microns to help filter out contaminants. There is a really great oil write-up slash research article on here. I will try to find it.
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Awesome article to read about filters:
http://minimopar.knizefamily.net/oilfilters/index.html
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http://minimopar.knizefamily.net/oilfilters/index.html
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I have a different view on oil filters, and especially in the area of boosted engines.
The web site listed above has lots of info about filter construction and "quality", but nothing about real world use and experience. His info has changed little since it was first published years ago.
My first comment is that type of oil is more important than the filter, especially the use of synthetics in our engines. It is a waste of $$$ using synthetic oil as there is NO benefit since the oil should be changed every 2-3000 miles. Also, it is very thin when at operating temps and gives less oil pressure and film strength for the larger bearing clearances in a performance engine.
And another characteristic I really dislike about it is that in 2 or 3 days it will drain off bearing surfaces and cylinder walls, which is not good when the engine is started.
As far as oil filters, the only brand we have had problems with is the Mobil I/K&N. The filter media is way too fine as it restricts oil flow. These have actually restricted flow so oil pressure was only 1-2#'s at idle. On engines with modified oil pumps and very good flow and pressure, we have seen the filter media crushed when cutting them open, which we do on a regular basis.
The Wix/NAPA performance filters have flow because they have a less dense media, about 3 times the Mobil I. The denser media also leads to "tracking" through the media. This means to oil will take the path of least resistance, and many times will create its own large track instead of being forced to pass through a very fine media. This happens in all media filters to some extent.
We did some testing and found that using a 40 micron filter with no bypass would give a 5-10 HP increase and a 5-10 PSI pressure increase over a Wix performance filter.
I also need to make this comment, the advertising agencies are paid to SELL product, oil and filters, and present test results and BS statements to make you believe their product is superior and YOU should buy it. This does NOT make it the best product for your specific use.
The web site listed above has lots of info about filter construction and "quality", but nothing about real world use and experience. His info has changed little since it was first published years ago.
My first comment is that type of oil is more important than the filter, especially the use of synthetics in our engines. It is a waste of $$$ using synthetic oil as there is NO benefit since the oil should be changed every 2-3000 miles. Also, it is very thin when at operating temps and gives less oil pressure and film strength for the larger bearing clearances in a performance engine.
And another characteristic I really dislike about it is that in 2 or 3 days it will drain off bearing surfaces and cylinder walls, which is not good when the engine is started.
As far as oil filters, the only brand we have had problems with is the Mobil I/K&N. The filter media is way too fine as it restricts oil flow. These have actually restricted flow so oil pressure was only 1-2#'s at idle. On engines with modified oil pumps and very good flow and pressure, we have seen the filter media crushed when cutting them open, which we do on a regular basis.
The Wix/NAPA performance filters have flow because they have a less dense media, about 3 times the Mobil I. The denser media also leads to "tracking" through the media. This means to oil will take the path of least resistance, and many times will create its own large track instead of being forced to pass through a very fine media. This happens in all media filters to some extent.
We did some testing and found that using a 40 micron filter with no bypass would give a 5-10 HP increase and a 5-10 PSI pressure increase over a Wix performance filter.
I also need to make this comment, the advertising agencies are paid to SELL product, oil and filters, and present test results and BS statements to make you believe their product is superior and YOU should buy it. This does NOT make it the best product for your specific use.
scojack_2001
Livin' Like A Refugee
- Joined
- May 24, 2001
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- 1,392
I run the Baldwin B39, but a B9 will work as well (about 1" longer). Also the BT112 is a turbo rated filter.
Hope this helps.
Well, I did buy a new PF52 and the oil pressure dropped immediately and was at about 15PSI at idle and hot. So I took the M209 back and explained the situation and they said I could get the one recommended for the car or go with the same filter. I went with the same filter and I installed it and let it cool overnight with temps in the 30s. A person at Autozone, who was just a customer and mechanic, said the filter should not cause higher than normal oil pressures., maybe a little. I gave them the old one to send back to Mobil. I started the car the next night and my wheels were off. I started and let it run for about 15 minutes at idle and checked and my pressure was 15psi. Something was up with that filter. It had to be defective. For my trouble Autozone gave me 5 quarts or oil and filter for my s10 for free.
Thanks for the link, I had read this in the past. I will read again.
still running the ac delco pf52 and mobil1 synthetic 15-50 from the stocker to the built motor never a problem with pressure or bearings.ive tried a few different oils and always go back to the 15-50 syn.if your going to constantly change it save the coin but the syn lasts longer and doesnt break down as fast.
So I am wondering, has anyone run Royal Purple in their cars? I don't know anything about their filters, but their oil I can say seems to be top. Even in newer cars, conventional oil is being changed every 5000 or 10,000 miles. My new Tundra (5.7) is factory rated at 5000 for conventional. And when it gets changed, the oil is still like new and my truck gets it workout from time to time. Buddy of mine runs RP in his and changes 10,000, and same thing, clean as a whistle.... plus he gains mpg... On thing I must say is that you need to use oil with high zinc content or ZDDP. If I am correct, Nick runs 50w oil for the heat in Az as so do I. My oil pressure stays around 20# at idle and in the 110+ summers. So what is up with the UPF25 Ac-Delco filters? I have read articles on the Buick sites and here as well that the Delco filters collapse easily. I run maimly WIX and from time to time KN. Even my Tundra from the factory runs KN (mOB 1) FILTERS.
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I live in Phoenix too and run Royal Purple and a WIX filter, 10/40 in the cool months, 20/50 in the summer. I probably change it more often than I need to as in two track days and it's out with old in with the new. If I'm just messing around on the street I'll let it go to 5ooo max.
I have just over 20lbs pressure at idle in the hot months.
Just did a leak down test two weeks ago and she was @ 5%, I'd say that's pretty good.
Nick- Which oil filter do you recommend? this link says 40 micron is not for street use: https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/productdetails.asp?RecID=9031I have a different view on oil filters, and especially in the area of boosted engines.
The web site listed above has lots of info about filter construction and "quality", but nothing about real world use and experience. His info has changed little since it was first published years ago.
My first comment is that type of oil is more important than the filter, especially the use of synthetics in our engines. It is a waste of $$$ using synthetic oil as there is NO benefit since the oil should be changed every 2-3000 miles. Also, it is very thin when at operating temps and gives less oil pressure and film strength for the larger bearing clearances in a performance engine.
Nick- which oil filter do you recommend? this link says 40 micron is not for street use. https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/productdetails.asp?RecID=9031
And another characteristic I really dislike about it is that in 2 or 3 days it will drain off bearing surfaces and cylinder walls, which is not good when the engine is started.
As far as oil filters, the only brand we have had problems with is the Mobil I/K&N. The filter media is way too fine as it restricts oil flow. These have actually restricted flow so oil pressure was only 1-2#'s at idle. On engines with modified oil pumps and very good flow and pressure, we have seen the filter media crushed when cutting them open, which we do on a regular basis.
The Wix/NAPA performance filters have flow because they have a less dense media, about 3 times the Mobil I. The denser media also leads to "tracking" through the media. This means to oil will take the path of least resistance, and many times will create its own large track instead of being forced to pass through a very fine media. This happens in all media filters to some extent.
We did some testing and found that using a 40 micron filter with no bypass would give a 5-10 HP increase and a 5-10 PSI pressure increase over a Wix performance filter.
I also need to make this comment, the advertising agencies are paid to SELL product, oil and filters, and present test results and BS statements to make you believe their product is superior and YOU should buy it. This does NOT make it the best product for your specific use.
Great write-up. Definitely will help me save some money and get a good filter in the future.
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Can't recall ever seeing it but a multi-viscosity oil of any kind seems, at least to me, the better choice and direction to go.
But I've been wrong before, oh SOOOOOOOO many times........
